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3 way switch not working

9 years ago

Hi.. I have a 3 way switch in kitchen, other end in garage which is never used. The switch controls flourescent lights in garage. Lights were not working when cold so assumed it was due to cold flourescents. I added an incadescent light at 1st fixture box and then ran wire from box to flourescents thinking when cold at least incadescent light would work. All worked fine. Today it is cold again and I turned on switch and nothing works. Could the cold be effecting switch?

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Comments (5)

snoonyb
9 years ago
Sounds more like a loose connection.

When you are joining the wires, prior to attaching the wire nut, you need to twist the wires together, however, be sure that all of the conductors are stripped and equal length.
jsell
Original Author
9 years ago
Even though lights have been working fine for weeks and then once cold no longer works
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Thanks. I agree and perhaps I should have said UP and DOWN. When our house was built, some three-way switches put the lights ON when the switches matched, Others put the lights ON when the switches were set one UP and one DOWN. My problem is that the three-ways in question used to work in one of these correct ways, and now, they only work when both sets are in the DOWN position None of the other 3 possibilities lights the lamps. I've replaced both switches, and it's still only both sets DOWN that turns the lights on. If I look at a diagram of one simple way the lights MAY have been connected, and assume that the wire from the panel is no longer connected to one of the switches, that could explain what I see. But, I don't know in fact how the wires were actually routed, so there could be a problem with one of the travelers. Doesn't seem easy to fix either way.
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OH man!!! I knew that 12/2 traveler seemed odd. I should have gone with my first instinct!! That is how I originally had it roughed in then found that posting and changed it all today..all for it not to work!!! ugh!! I have wired 3 ways before but I'm getting confused with the fan/light feature. Also, I think what is confusing me is that the way I originally had it, and the way you are stating, box 1 with the feed is "in between" the fixture and the other box. Does that make sense? I know that might not be accurate but that is how my brain sees it. Meaning, box 2 has the 2 runs of 14/3 coming over to box 1 which has the feed and then the run to the light. So let me try to figure this out and correct me again if I am wrong. The rough should be: Box 1: 14 or 12/2 feed; 2 runs of 14/3 to box 2 and a run of 14/3 to the fixture. Then from there I am reading your instructions but having difficulty picturing it..not sure if it's fatigue and late but..is there any way you could diagram it for me? maybe in an email or something....i'm dying over here to finish this up. thanks, brian
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snoonyb
9 years ago
If your connections are as I described, then replacing the switch most used would be the next step.

Heat and one of the switches in a 3 way circuit, left in the midway travel of their throw, will affect a switch circuit far sooner than cold.
sdello
9 years ago
Are you throwing the switches the same way all the time? A properly wired 3-way switch configuration will operate regardless of the position of the other switch so that neither has a consistent "on" or "off" position. i.e. if the light is on when you're in the garage, it shouldn't matter if the toggle is up or down, throwing it the other way will switch it off. the other switch should do the same.

An improperly wired 3-way can force a switch to be in one position (say up) in order for the second switch to turn the fixture on and off. If wired improperly and the first switch is down (not up), then the second switch will not do anything and it will seem like the switch is broken.

Is there a chance that you've always followed the same pattern and everything "worked ok" and now the relative switch positions have changed so things "stopped working".

Check the wiring. It may have always been incorrect and you just didn't notice it.
ionized_gw
9 years ago
BTW, if you put a modern, quality, common spec ballast in the luminaire with conventional lamps, they should strike down to 0 F. It might save you a lot of aggravation. Either check the specs of the tubes and ballasts or stay away from low output ballasts and low output lamps.

If you need lower temps, you can use a special ballast.

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