Had a similar issue and decided to extend the drip edge in the following manner: loosen or remove entire length of gutter (I loosened mine rather than removed so as to aid in the gutter re-install process because this was a one-man job). Cut galvanized or SS flashing (purchased by the foot @ Ace) into manageable lengths 6"x48". Pried drip edge away from fascia w/ wide putty knife and installed flashing between drip edge and fascia. Sandwiched flashing behind existing drip edge and in-front of fascia. Fastened drip edge and flashing to the fascia w/ screws and over-lapping flashing srips the entire length of the fascia board. Re-install gutter w/ screws and w/o any sag while allowing gradual slope to drain. This worked well for me. Hope that helps.

The roof cannot wear out faster whether an item is installed or not UNDER the roof. The drip edge kicks the water out away from the fascia and into the gutter. You shouldn't pay the contractor until you inspect the finished job to see all the job parameters have been completed and done to a skill level that is appropriate. It becomes more ardous for you now. If you paid for the drip edge then either get it installed or get a credit and call someone else in to do it. Get estimates first so you know how much of a credit to ask for. Ron

Gosh... I had *another* estimate today and *this* guy said that drip edges are not recommended by his company....more suitable for northern climates where the water drips off and sort of "in" from built up snow. This is not a cheap fly-by-night company and is an Owen's Corning preferred contractor (just like the other one). In fact, this one is the biggest in East Tennessee. These guys both normally charge a bit more than most. He said that they have found too many rotten facia boards hiding under the drip edge in this area. They seem to use very high quality (not cost cutting) in all of the items I asked about. They use those nails that have actual barb wires which prevent backing out, the Owens Corning "system", and a complete re-do of the chimney flashing. Given how inexpensive drip edge is, it's hard to imagine that he would be so insistent about it. He says his shingles will hang over about 2" into the gutter.

You know...it's funny how such seemingly small things such as drip rails or pull-out breadboards can add such nice subtle touches to kitchens and provide the opportunity to spice things up a bit (translation: to obsess even more)! davidro1 - I wish I could see a pic of what you mean. Trying to imagine this metal! At any rate my contractor's begun cutting wood. Thank you for your thoughts! Rococogurl - I agree with what you wrote about the top pic being nicer and also about contrast in color being better. My contractor brought over one that he made today, out of maple. He did no curving but had it slant slightly downward, subtly, and then it's gently softened on the ends (not too sharp). It extends out further than the sink a bit, like the first pic you and I both like. I think I like contrasty color because it makes the drip rail appear to be more of a deliberate design choice as opposed to a necessity (even though it is)! He's going to make the fat piece thinner then bring it back tomorrow. He aimed for the approximate thickness of the new pull-out cutting board which will be to the right of the sink and up a bit, under the countertop. So not as fat as the pics we've seen but not too thin for my simple kitchen. It also dawned on me today that my sink's probably one of the only ones anywhere (quite literally) that's pushed back so that it's almost flush with the lower cabs (due to needing to meet the wall-mounted faucet at a reasonable place). And that because it's so tightly scribed, the front corners actually appear to be less curved! Crazy huh? So in the end, it might not looks so odd after all!! You can kind of see what I mean by looking in the pic below (though better scribing job this second time around w/ the better contractor). Color question, if you don't mind (the length of this post, that is!): what do you think about making the drip rail match the front of the pull-out cutting board (as opposed to the floors which are original fir and very orange looking)? And what the heck do I do for a color?! My contractor thought stain wouldn't hold up as well as paint. The wood will be maple. I thought a clear satin maple finish might be nice - on both the drip rail as well as the front of the pull-out cutting board (which will have a cute little knob of some sort, I think) though that's only cause I can't think what else to do. Black seems too dramatic; a dark brown or cherry finish won't match anything in the kitchen since my butcher block tiny island has a maple top, much to my disappointment (Craigslist...I wish it were a dark-topped Boos island but oh well!). But will a clear varnish look bad? The kitchen main colors including cabs will be some version of BM's Fieldstone gray (a gray w/ hint of green color) along with some cream color (and perhaps some white). I like the cheerfulness of the drip rail in the link below (at the bottom). I have no updated pics but I'll include a quite older pic to give you an idea in the daylight. There have been several improvements since. Ignore the brown bowl which is never usually in there. Thank you! Here is a link that might be useful: