Howards Restore-A-Finish - what color should i go with??

15 years ago

I posted this in the woodworking forum but thought maybe someone here could shed some light?

I want to try Howards Restore-A-Finish on this desk before i get all crazy sanding. Not sure what color to go with. I've heard that stain gets darker over time with old pieces of furniture? or in general?? If this is true, should the color I pick be something close to the color the desk appears now or the lighter color it probably was? Since you're trying to "restore the finish".

I was thinking the mahogany...maybe I should be going with the dark walnut or ebony brown?

What should i use to clean it first?

There's also paint down the one leg and on the side. Suggestions as to how or what to get that off? Doesn't pick off real well and there's a good bit of it.

Here are some pictures.

{{!gwi}}

{{!gwi}}

My Dad knows someone who knows antiques/old furniture but between their work schedules who knows when the guy will be able to come up. Figured trying this couldn't screw it up too bad. right? :)

Thanks in advance!

http://www.touchoforanges.com/hore1.html

Here is a link that might be useful: Restore A Finish colors

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Comments (9)

gracie-2006
15 years ago
So you decided on the desk not the chair! It is beautiful. I would use the mahogany. That is what I use and it really works on a lot of finishes. I use it on medium oak, cherrywood and mahogany. I am not sure what you should do about the paint spill. I am sure someone will have some ideas here. Keep us posted and send finished pics of your beautiful desk.
User
Original Author
15 years ago
gracie - i'm going to leak out my secret early.. i'm picking up the chair tonight!!!! :) :) almost embarrassed to mention that now since i made such a deal about this or that, not both.

the vehicle repairs etc ended up not being near as much as we had anticipated. My b-day is coming up ... and DH was in a really good mood last night. He was just like,"why don't you see if they still have that chair you're drooling over and go get it" yay! I'm surprised it's not gone!

so mahogany...
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OK...oil based poly STINKS for WEEKS afterwards. And it turns the 'orange yellow' you are describing. And it will turn ANY COLOUR you choose to an orange tone. If you like the idea of the finish off-gassing for 30+ days while you try to find a place for yourself and kids and dog to live, you are welcome to go with it. I'm not a fan of oil based. The VOC contents are ASTRONOMICAL (880 g/L in one of them...compare that to the CARB requirement of LESS THAN 175 g/L in California). Many of these finishes are illegal in California and the 11 states that have adopted the CARB II indoor air quality requirements. It is a myth that oil based finishes are TOUGHER than water based. Polyurethane is polyurethane is polyurethane. The issue is when you go for the same PRICE TAG as the oil based finishes. A low-priced oil based finish (that has been on the market since the 60s without so much as a PRINTING up date on the can let alone a recipe change) is DIRT CHEAP. Why? Because those companies made their money DECADES AGO. Now they are just enjoying the HORDES of money from the investment they made in the 1950s (nope...not kidding). If you get a 'dirt cheap' (aka DIY level product from Home Depot!!!) water borne poly you will get what you paid for = a DIY level finish that is not as tough as the toxic stuff from the 60's. The TRICK is to work with HIGH PRICED water based finishes. The stuff that comes in 2 part products (call the finish and the hardener/catalyst). They carry big names like Bona or Loba. They carry high price tags (like double or triple the cost of the toxic stuff). They also carry VERY IMPRESSIVE wearability. The big boys from the big boys (Bona Traffic HD or Loba 2K Supra AT) are the toughest finishes outside of a factory. They are MAGNIFICENT. The PROFESSIONALS that work these finishes are the best of the best as well (or should be...some hammer swinging 'guys' give it a go once in a while and it shows...). And those people are not CHEAP. Why? Because they took the time out of the schedules and money out of their own pockets to attend the 3-5 day training courses for these finishes. Only the DEDICATED do that. Everyone else just looks it up on Youtube. My quest to you is: How happy would you be to find the house unlivable for as many as 30 days because of the stench? Are you a migraine sufferer? Do you get nose bleeds? How about your kids? Does anyone in your family have 'sensitivities', allergies, asthma, COPD, etc? If anyone has any of these things I've listed, then oil based is out. I've seen people get nose bleeds from sleeping in a home with freshly finished floors with oil based poly. Some vomit. Most have BLINDING headaches. Migraine sufferers can't go further than the front steps...the smell stopping them from entering the house. Just because it says 'can be walked on' in 1 day and furniture back in 5 days...doesn't mean the SMELL is gone.
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gracie-2006
15 years ago
Yea!!! I was hoping you would get both. That was my vote!:) They will look awesome together or seperately.You should be able to easily find pretty fabric to cover the chair. Hobby Lobby has pretty decor fabric and it is priced great on their sales. I recently covered all of our dining room chairs. I bet you can use the mahogany Restore- A- Finish on the chair as well. I love it when my husband gives in! It makes the project a lot more fun when everyone is in agreement.
mzdee
15 years ago
I have used Restor-A-Finish and I'm not sure it will work as well as you anticipate on that piece. Something has to be done to the top where the finish is missing. Restore-A-Finish is "light weight." It will clean and put a nice finish coat on furniture, but it won't help damaged surface areas. You may want to sand the top down first and refinish it.

For the paint, use a blow dryer in sections. As the area heats up, the paint should loosen some.

Good Luck
User
Original Author
15 years ago
mzdee - i was wondering if the top would need extra attention.

just sand the top part and refinish it? what stand should i use?

i'll try the blow dryer thing. thanks!
brutuses
15 years ago
Restore a finish will fill in some wear as I've proven on my beat up sink cabinet (cats claws took the finish off every time they jump up for water) However, your top is pretty worn. I would get the mahogany and try a very small corner where it is really worn and see what happens. That RAF is really amazing. Because you have water marks you might need to use fine steel wool to apply the RAF. Read the lable, it explains.
User
Original Author
15 years ago
I just wanted to give an update on here. I didn't know how much response i would get from the woodworking forum but it's turned out pretty good so far! found a lot of interesting things out about wood. I'm going to buy a bottle of the mahogany but i have other things i could use it on if it doesn't do the magic i'm hoping.

Here is a link that might be useful: Info about stipping furniture.
brutuses
15 years ago
Look forward to your update on how things turn out.
magothyrivergirl
15 years ago
sheesharee- I quickly glanced at link to your thread at woodworking. All I can say is follow bobsmyuncle's advice and guidance to the letter. He walked me thru a project with spectacular results. I felt so lucky to have someone with his knowledge and experience (I believe he has anyway) helping me.

Howards Restore-A-Finish - what color should i go with??

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gracie-2006

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Howards Restore-A-Finish - what color should i go with??

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