I have experienced the same as snappybob and cmoser. We use well water- lots of sediment and lots of minerals. Do you have any kind of filter between the hose spigot and the beginning of the hose connection? It's a very good idea, if not a requirement, if you are using well water. I have used many soaker hoses, different diameters, from the micro soaker tubing to the largest avilable, as well as the most and the least expensive soaker hoses available. To go with them I have used all types of compression fittings (for those who don't know-the soaker hoses push into them tightly,giving you a way to join soaker hoses, connect to black poly feeder tubing, connect to a garden hose etc.). On the 1/4" micro soaker tubing I have used all forms of barbed connectors, (these go into the soaker hose instead of the hose going into the compression fitting). My first experiences with them- I unfortunately buried at least 4 different runs of 100 feet each and at least 1- 50ft run, all just a few inches deep plus mulch, throughout a number of new perennial flower beds. They worked great for about 2 years, then less well for another, then stopped working completely. I had added a fitting at the end of each hose run. It was a compression fitting on one side where the soaker hose went into. The other end of the fitting was (male) threaded to connect to a garden hose, or in my case a cap to screw onto and off. I used it so I could flush the system. The end of the line with this fitting stuck up out of the soil, at the end of each line. This allowed me to make sure the water was running through to the end. Also, I bought an inexpensive pressure gauge with a garden hose connection on it. I can put it on that end fitting and measure the pressure coming out of the end, meaning also along the whole hose- very handy. By the way, if you have a well these are a great idea to stick on your hose spigot or the end of a garden hose to test the PSI pressure coming from your well. Your well water comes through a pressure tank buried near where the well was drilled. Each pressure tank has a preset pressure, ours is (I'm drawing a blank here- maybe 22 psi.?), so the water coming out at the spigot remains a steady (for example) 22 psi. When your pressure tank starts going bad (oh yes.... we've replaced an old one), the pressure can at first become eratic- the pressure gauge check helps check your pressure tank. The end fitting is also great for flushing out loose sediment from the well water. You'd be amazed at the amount of actual crud that comes up through your well! Unfortunately, after a few short years, the hoses stopped working- just a dribble came out. I tried to pull them up to check for leaks in the hose etc., but the groundcover and perennials and tree and vine roots had completely surrounded the hoses- (I had made some really great raised beds, the plants had grown great!) I'd have killed everything if I'd started ripping/tearing the hoses out. So lesson # 1 for me -don't bury soaker hoses with your perennial veggies, flowers etc. So, I cut off all my fittings, (hard plastic so unaffected by the deposits), to disinfect and recycle onto the soakers in the newest veggie gardens- where the hoses were going just under the mulch (MULCH IS GOOD with soakers !!!!) The entangled soaker hoses still remain in the perennial beds, still snaking around just a few inches down. By the way, I attribute the hoses closing up to 2 things- the minerals and sediment in our well water and then the hose itself leaking after getting nicked or sliced with trowels etc. when replacing or adding bulbs & plants to the beds. In that old veggie garden I added an inline filter, just after the hose spigot of the well, and new (better) hoses. But the same thing happened, as far as the mineral deposits in the hoses eventually making them too ineffective to use. I did a lot of research and found there are ways to back flow/flush, or 'soak' your soakers in vinegar or hydrogen oxygen based solutions to try and remove the deposits and get those hoses soaking again, but the time and expense and just plain hassle of it all, after my first experience stopped me. Putting in a new well necessitated, 4 years ago, our moving the entire vegetable garden. It's taken all these years now to clear the trees and then the stumps (we live in the woods) and to get everything together to grow most things in many large pots. The pots sit on recycled plastic covered pallets arranged in bed lengths, on TOP of our hard/no dirt/shale surface. Currently I have (12) 'pallet beds' each 4' wide and 12' long. Each holds a variety of different size pots with different fencing, caging, trellising, insect netting or plastic covering etc, depending on the crop. I have just about finished drilling all the side/at the bottom drainage holes. In the bottom of the pots, covering the holes up the sides, I use either metal screening or landscape cloth to keep the soil in and the bugs out. The next few days after that are for filling the pots with 823 gallons worth of growing mix. Then next week, the 85 seedlings under three tiers of light in the bedroom (I have a patient husband), will find a new home for the season. The week after that (yes I know how late I am)- the veggies being direct seeded will go into their pots. At a 'bad back/knees/neck' 60 years of age - there will be no more double digging raised beds for me, nor any more soaker hoses. Tomorrow I'm ordering drip emitters for all the pots and also for the in ground beds that I have already growing. I'll continue to use an inline 'Y' filter (with even smaller filter holes) and also get the least clogging emitters I can find. Luckily I can still use most of the old fittings etc., since I still have to come from the well spigot to a garden hose, to black feeder poly pipes, to the small tubing, to the emitters. As long as I match the size of the feeder poly pipes to the size of the old soaker hose and use the same size drip emitter micro tubing as I used for the micro soaker hoses, I can use the same compression fittings and barb fittings. Then I'm only out the cost of the soaker hoses themselves. But no more long runs of soaker hoses for me- not with well water. Hope this helps. Good luck to you. Rebecca

charlie137, I too love the Albert sectional at DWR. I hope to purchase it during their next upholstery sale. The Albert is made by American Leather. The $5700 sectional is the Vienna leather, which is not a protected leather. They also offer the Albert in the Sierra leather, which is a protected leather. I have kids and a dog and plan to go with the protected leather. I sat in the Albert in Sierra at one of their stores and found the leather wonderfully comfortable. I am not familiar with Alphaville, but the Angelo does indeed look just like the Albert. I am not certain, but the description made it sound as if the ottoman makes for the sectional instead of a chaise as in the Albert. It says it allows you to switch between a left and right facing section.

What a strange problem. I am familiar with these chairs. It sounds to me that the rivets are not fully seated. You could go back to the store and see if all the chairs are like this. Are yours in fact defective or is this a design flaw. If they are all like this and you want to keep them, you might go to Home Depot and buy a small tube of clear silicone caulking and carefully apply a small bead of caulk around each rivet. You would only need a fraction of an inch around each rivet. The silicone might eventually fall out. A better product but hard to apply is called Quad (caulking) in the paint dept, only available in larger tubes that you will need a caulking gun. This product would probably never fall out but it tends to be messy. You might have to carefully tape off the inside and outside of the rivet leaving small space around the rivet and then apply it smoothly with the tip of your finger. You might want to wear throw away gloves as it is hard to get off your fingers. By the way, if anyone is interested, Quad for just about any exterior caulking, is superior to any other product, windows, doors, installing doors and windows, gutter sealing, under flashing, etc.. I have even re-glued torn roof shingles with it (cover the shingle under the torn shingle with quad but make sure the surface under the shingle is dry. You can dry this area with a hot hair dryer first. Press down the torn shingle into the caulking and then press on the outer surface of the torn shingle with a small board to force it evenly into the caulking beneath it). It stays flexible and is very permanent but it can be removed with a scraper and paint thinner.

We're having this issue in a number of situations. @A Fox, we're going back and forth with some Top Knob handles that are heavy metal handles packed with very thin foam envelopes and the mounting screws keep denting and gouging the metal and finish during shipping. We're on our third attempt to replace. And, we had some lights sent to us and the square glass enclosure was broken on one. Replacement came in a much larger box, but the glass was completely shattered. Second replacement came in again in a larger box, also shattered. But, one shard was intact enough to realize it was way too tall to be the glass for our light. Looked up the sku and they had been sending us replacement glass for their 25" light and we had ordered the 14" -- clearly noted on our order and the replacement orders. Third one finally arrived, correct and intact.