Aerating with a golf course putting green aerator with aeration tines set on 2 inch centers works great for seed bed preparation. We like using turf tractors (w high flotation turf tires) and rear mounted 3 pt hitch cam driven aerifiers for at least two complete passes over the same areas. The first pass is set at 3" to 6 inch depth for root penetration, and a 2nd pass set at 1/2" to at most 1 inch tine depth. The wider the tine the better (7/8" wide are great!) These create protected seed pockets with GREAT TILTH, and hold moisture. These professional aerators roll and smooth simultaneously JUST BEFORE before this final tilth and subsequent seeding takes place. One major benefit to this system is that the ground remains firm enough to still move over it. It's as if the un-aerified soil between aeration holes acts as a soil "grid", further protecting the "seed pockets" between them. This in essence prevents the plugged seed pockets from being compacted or disturbed. This system can work for all new plantings, and when overseeding existing turf. It does an amazing job where existing turf is stripped off with a sod cutter, and then this system is applied. We've done it on projects ranging from entire golf courses, to sport fields, and small residential sites. This can also be combined with running sub-soiling "Mole Ploughs", and vertical lineal aerators like Graden and Turf Mach units. The P.G.A. and U.S.G.A. have researched it thoroughly on putting greens, and published an article entitled, "Core Aeration by the Numbers", (pdf via Michigan State University, Chris Hartwiger and Patrick O'Brien) Scott Buley, High Tech Turf & Trees

Sorry I can't upload pics to help Bonheur, but it looks like Weebus relies on weight of the pipe and and a "cable?" to seal his houses. If you want a tight house you need to have a channel lock("C" channel base with solid aluminum bars that clamp the plastic secure) or wire-lock at the base. These lock systems would be positioned near the top of the baseboard so that you can secure the plastic above the rollup pipe. You should have the ends secure the same way by extending a wire-lock base on each end arch all the way to the ground; then when cold weather sets in you can insert the wiggle wire to close the house. This time of year mine is closed and I let the louvres and exhaust fan (thermostatically controled)handle mid-day heat. Otherwise you are rolling up & down all day long as the sun peeks in and out on cool days. You can get a wire-lock rollup pipe (I have one on one GH)that has the channel formed into the pipe to secure the plastic. I don't think it is worth the money and if you keep the rollup sides from billowing out you likely won't have problems with your plastic unrolling off the rollup pipe. Instead of a cable as weebus mentioned I run a nylon rope thru diagonal eye bolts, starting at the baseboard(end) and then diagonal up and down to near every other arch. The main problem is that when picking with the sides rolled up the rope is always an obstacle to carry crates in and out. Whatever you use it should be tight enough so that it doesn't get caught in the rollingup operation, yet loose enough to allow the same without pinching.

Hi Sandra, No, you were not being ignored, trust me. I read your post and said to myself, I don't have a clue, but I'll keep an eye on this post and maybe learn something myself! I'm sure others did the same. So thanks to Bonnie from me for her suggestion, and to you for the post. Kathy G in MI

Thanks movingwest, I did try serging with regular thread and it still rolled up. I will try the decoritive thread idea it sounds beautiful. However, last night, I did finally figure it out. I tried cutting a ruffle with the knit running crosswise and a 3 inch hem but it didn't look right, too bulky. So I went back to the original ruffle with the knit running lengthwise and did 1/2 inch hem with 2 rows of stitching 1/4 inch a part and it seemed to stabilize the hem from rolling under.