Calling all plaster wall repair experts!
corgilvr
19 years ago
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sycamore_guy
19 years agobrickeyee
19 years agoRelated Discussions
It begins... calling all layout experts.
Comments (3)Mateo, assuming the kitchen were left there, I would not be interested in extending it into a very long space down the back wall of the house. One thing I would strongly consider would be setting the refrigerator, partly or entirely, into the wall at what is currently drawn in as the laundry room. The shallow counter shown there in the new design would be worthless to me because I'd never work there, so I'd never put it in, but I very much like the idea of a wall of floor-to-ceiling shallow storage, anywhere from 8-13" deep. I have that kind of storage now, which I copied from a previous home because I loved it. It holds an amazing amount of stuff in a very accessible way, and almost nothing in a kitchen is too big for a 13" shelf, or 12". BTW, you can also borrow 3" or so of depth between studs for storage. The refrigerator could be set into this, using the rest of the needed space, again, from the laundry area. Is that little knee wall at the bottom end of the current kitchen counter supporting anything? I see the door outside on the other side of it, but if the kitchen stayed there, the only extension I would be interested in in that direction would be into the door areas, which would be shoved down 2 to 3 feet.. OR. :) More ambitiously, but maybe well worth the investment would be addressing a larger area in the remodel. One thing that strikes me is that the space labeled "dining" seems way too small hold a table and chairs and be a corridor into the kitchen. If it's not somehow great for you, I'd consider extending the kitchen into that space as far as the bedroom hallway and putting a dining/socializing banquette in the back corner where you're contemplating a clean-up center. This plan would leave the back door right where it is--no extending the counter that direction. I might choose in this case to extend the bedroom hall wall the depth of the kitchen counter on the other, living room end, to hide mess on it from the living room, and then widen the doorway to span the rest of the space between that main work counter and garage/laundry wall. Traffic could then come around that corner, cross in front of the refrigerator (which might still be set into the back end of the laundry room), and end up at the banquette. Of course, this version would require moving doors to laundry and garage, and there might be too much involved in that (like where's the plumbing?), but why not have the garage door enter much more directly at the area currently labeled dining, or through a different part of the laundry room, instead of requiring people to go the long way around and demanding the layout and fucntions of all those spaces give way to the needs of traffic? Moving those doors would be a big problem solver, improving your entire home; and if means allow, doing anything else would probably be a mistake. That done (without that door from the garage in that back corner), a really nice, spacious banquette could be set in there, with seating for several enjoying the window and door to the outside and with a nice cozy relationship with the cook at work. Of course, the things I don't know mean some of this may be ruled out immediately, but hopefully something will jog an idea that will work for you. Unless you have a critical need for a counter to cool several sheets of cookies at once, though, I'd strongly suggest at least ditching the shallow counter in favor of even shallower wall storage plus the refrigerator set in. Note that any counter area would be right where your very best shelves could be, right in front of you without reaching up or down. Have fun....See Moreweight of plaster or drywall compound
Comments (7)Mindy- That sounds like a tough one. If it were me, I'd think seriously about sheetrocking the whole thing. It actually sounds like less work than repairing the hodgepodge. Without seeing the horsehair plaster and whether it's too far gone, it's hard to give advice, but plaster should stick to it...joint compound is not meant to be used to fill in holes as it will crack in large quantities. One more thing, however, and this is important: old popcorn ceilings often contained asbestos, and you should not be scraping these or vacuuming the mess (it spreads the microscopic fibres around) without first getting an inexpensive test done on a sample at a testing lab to see if whether it contains asbestos. This could be a serious health hazard....See MoreNew Layouts- Calling all layout experts!!
Comments (49)First, with the traffic pattern you describe:  Main entrance downstairs & coming up the stairs on the left Yes. The Âside staircase is only for for easier access to trash and to let the dog out.  Side entrance (directly off kitchen) not used much o See above  You want two entrances into the kitchen, one by the bedrooms & one from the LR/DR end o Correct. o  Entrance to MBR, if in kitchen would not be main access to it (but, it looks like it would be the only access in most plans...) o That is the only MBR entrance. We are toying with the idea of moving the entrance to the main hallway, thus taken some space from the Guest Room. IF this does not happen then we will need a 5 wall coming off the West wall to shield the entrance to the MBR. This wall is currently in the kitchen today. If we go with the 5 wall the west wall will be approx 11Â6. Other points...  You want some seating o Yes, at least 4 at the peninsula. The peninsula Âoverhang is being taken out of the dinning roomÂs space. I would like some island seating  You don't need or necessarily care about windows on the right wall of the kitchen b/c of the skylights & wall of windows in the DR o We are planning on windows on the longer part of the east wall.  The outside stairs should be at least 30" wide, preferably 36" (room for carrying things up/down the stairs like trash) o IÂm not sure what the dimensions of the staircase will be.  Small deck should be at least 36" wide for maneuvering room (door not a "straight shot" down the stairs, you have to turn to go down...) o I am not sure the size of the current deck I would guess about 48Â. The current stairs and deck will be completely rebuilt. Let me get this straight (so I understand what's going on)....  Layout A (14' north wall): o There will be a hall on the west side of the kitchen - YES o North wall ends where the outside stairs begin - YES o No pantry on the east wall  Yes, shallow pantry on West Wall o Entire length of kitchen is 2' + 3' + 8' + 1'6" (overhang on peninsula) = 14'6" YES- 3 feet is being taken from the kitchen and given to he Master in order to create a door that is not in the kitchen. o Entire width of kitchen is 14' (but, measurements = 1'6" + 3' + 8' = 12'6" OR 1'6" + 3' + 4' + 3' + 2' = 13'6") Width of kitchen is approx 14  Layout B (16' north wall): o There will be a hall on the west side of the kitchen Yes o No pantry on the east wall ÂCorrect. There will be a shallow pantry on the west wall o North wall extends to in front of the stairs (stated dimensions indicate only another 2', but I think it will be closer to 30"...36" deck - 6" exterior wall = 30" interior space. Also, drawing seems to show 27" freezer not the same width...if you have a 33" deck, that would seem correct ï§ Currently north wall extends 2Â2 in front of stairs. I know it sounds weird, but that is what it currently it. o Entire length of......See Morecalling all carpentry experts...
Comments (3)It depends what sort of adhesive they used to attach the edgebanding. If it's a heat-activated glue, then it should be fairly easy for the tech to heat it up and peel it off, then apply a new strip. If they used a PVA glue (i.e. regular white or yellow glue) that can be more problematic to reverse and probably wouldn't be amenable to a field repair. Anyway, I recommend letting them have a go at it and if you're unsatisfied them have them pull the cabinet out. What would be of more concern to me is matching the color and finish of the new banding to the existing cabinets. I'm actually a little surprised your very pricey custom cabinets use edge-banding rather than wood strips, but that's a different conversation. In any case glue fumes shouldn't pose any significant danger, and they dry very quickly. Close the kid's door while the tech is there if you're concerned....See Moresycamore_guy
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corgilvrOriginal Author