Sorry - I didn't mean that comment to be flippant, only that all the sources I consider as being authoritative on clematis list Niobe as a group 2. And I wouldn't put a lot of weight on information provided by plant tags - they are notoriously misleading and often inaccurate. FWIW, the vast majority of the large flowered hybrids - like Niobe, Nelly Moser, Henryi and many other popular selections - will be pruning group 2 vines. It is important to remember that clematis pruning instructions are only guidelines - you can choose to follow them or not. It's not going to make a huge difference to the plant, except to possibly delay or limit flowering if you prune harder than suggested, or if you opt not to prune at all. The one suggestion I would make is that you prune hard regardless of pruning group for at least the first season. This helps the clematis to develop a big healthy root system and reduces the chances of wilt going forward. In my old garden, I had a vast collection of clematis (about 60) from all three pruning groups and it was just necessary because of time constraints to approach pruning as efficiently as possible. So I narrowed down the pruning groups to 2 - prune or not prune! Anything that bloomed exclusively on old growth (very early bloomers, mostly species clems) were not pruned unless growth became unruly. Otherwise, everything else was pruned back hard, like a group 3 (except for a tangutica growing in a 25' apple tree which was unreachable and left unpruned). All flourished and bloomed, although any group 2's may have been slightly delayed with their bloom cycle with this practice. The point is these vines are adaptable and flexible and it is not necessary to be absolutely precise in your pruning methods :-)

enjoy the bloom, proceed as usual in September. one year of two blooms wont hurt it. that's what I like about hippeastrums- they'll throw you a random flower every so often. a lot of people on here just have a bloom or two all year and then a big bloom at some point. don't worry about it. if anything, you've been taking really good care of it if its throwing up an extra scape :)

There is more to jades than just typical green leaved plant you can see everywhere, Crassula ovata. Check out C. o. Hobbit, Gollum, Crosby's compact, Tricolor, Blue waves....and many more for different leaf shapes and coloring. If you type just crassula, you'll see many different looking plants. Most of them will reproduce easily from leaf cuttings (and stem cuttings too). If you like more rosette types, check out Echeverias. May will also reproduce from leafs, some will not but they will have offsets and also you can reproduce from stem cuttings. Leggy plants, if otherwise healthy, will likely respond well to be-heading. You could pot the cut off top section, and leave stem with roots potted - many will grow offsets along the stem. These could be removed once big enough (or left to grow as is - anyway you like it). Kalanchoes are very easily propagated from leaves (depending where you live, some could be a nuisance :) since they propagate so easily). There are many very nice kalanchoes there besides the 'florist kalanchoe' that are available in stores by hundreds, in many different flower colors. Keeping plants in original soil usually creates problems because most are grown in peat - ad it isn't easy to keep it 'just right' as moisture goes. But week or even few should not be a big problem, unless it is soaking wet from improper watering in the store. They all require very good drainage, so using gravely/gritty type of substrate is beneficial to plants in the long run. No plants like to be pot-bound (even if you read so very often...). Succulents, in their natural habitat, grow often in very tight spots/crevices and ppl assume they like to be squeezed, pot bound. But their roots, if can't grow wider, may grow quite deep in nature. In cultivation, pots approx. 1" bigger in diameter than the root ball are used most often (just a general suggestion). It is recommended to use smaller pots if the soil is more water retaining = takes longer to dry up. More soil there is, longer plant sits with 'wet feet' and that creates most problems with succulents. Typically, succulents do not need to be repotted often. But many will tolerate moving them around as you described...these are plants (unfortunately) that are often handled/used as an decorative piece, easily replaced, and often put in inappropriate containers (like terrariums, glass bowls...). So it may depend also on you and what you expect from the plants :) I know that aquarium water is used for watering plants. What I would worry about is giving plants unbalanced 'fertilizer'; too much of 1 ingredient, not enough of others may create more problems than no fertilizer at all. Many ppl do not fertilize succulents (they live in quite poor/lean substrates in their habitat), others do. But well balanced fertilizer is much better IMO. And over fertilizing, even if using balanced fertilizer, will eventually create some problems too (too much of a good thing is usually not good...:)

Looks like it's starting to rot...Can you remove it and check the roots? If they are white I would only cover the roots and let the the base stem be exposed to moving air. Also you could put a thin layer of cinnamon on that area to prevent further rot.