Here's hoping this makes sense...

When stitching a straight piece around a corner, stitch right up to the corner & leaving the needle in the down position in the fabric, lift the presser foot & pivot the fabric, then, w/ the needle still in the fabric (make sure it's all the way down so it anchors the fabric firmly), lower the presser foot & continue stitching. For sharper corners, make 1 or 2 small stitches diagonally across the corner, instead of pivoting right @ the corner (that makes for 2 pivots, not 1).

I usually snip as I go, rather than ahead of time, I would staystitch if snipping ahead, so the fabric won't open up too much.

Almost forgot to say, work w/the cornered piece on the bottom & the straight piece(s) on top, of course.

I like to decrease the stitch length near the corner (1 inch or so) to make the seam a bit stronger.

You can try practicing on some scrap fabric 1st, to get the hang of it.

HTH

Here is a link that might be useful: Click images for larger pictures

I'm just checking in....How R u doing?

Sorry, didn't see the post and started at 8am. Of course I did it with the straight piece on the bottom, I did clip the seat panel in the corners. Took a break to go see an antique mantel from CL, now I'm going to sew on the top seat panel but I'll make sure to put the boxing on top (can get the welt on tighter to the seat that way too. I'll post pics when I'm done - at this rate, should be around midnight LOL.

You need to clip the boxing strip and the cording, not the cushion pieces, because these are what's turning the corner. You clip 1/2" (or whatever your seam allowance is) from the edge, before you get to that point. Sew to the clip, then pivot your needle to go around.

You should also stay stitch the boxing for a couple of inches before and after where you will clip. This means sewing a straight line on the seam line to keep the clip from continuing.

I can't clip the cording b/c it's right on the top of the boxing strip and on the outside of the cushion - I was trying the self welt in the link. I got the corners pinned, joined the boxing and the top closure, had to unpin and pin again, now I sewed the back of the seat to the top closure (open) but I'm having trouble once I hit the solid boxing that's already sewn to the bottom seat. I *want* to sew around the edge with the boxing on top to get it tight against the seat, but since the cushion cover is closed at that point and the "sleeve arm" or whatever it is on the machine is 90 degrees to the direction I want to go, I can't figure out how to get the material to lie flat so I'm only going through the 2 pieces I want and not folding it under the needle and sewing the top and the bottom seat panels together!

I'm out of white thread - I think I'll hit Walmart in the AM and try to handsew the boxing to the top seat panel tomorrow night. it takes longer and the stitches aren't as uniform, probably won't be as strong, but I hand-quilt so can make fairly small uniform stitches. Good thing the thread really matches the fabric. I don't know what I'll do when I try the striped fabric. Sew the top on first?

It was easier to make a cover without the boxing and sew everything inside out (not sure why but the last piece was easier than this). And it would definitely be easier to make knife-edge cushions.

In your case, you'll only clip the boxing strip. If you used a separate cording, then that would get clipped, too. You only clip in the seam allowance up to the stitch line, not on on the outside.
For the rest of your post, you've lost me. I'm not quite following what you're doing and I feel you may be going about this all wrong. The whole cushion cover is sewn inside out, from start to finish, whether you use a boxing strip or not. It only get turned right side out when it's all finished and ready to be stuffed.
If you could post some pics to show us what's going on, i.e. when you said " I *want* to sew around the edge with the boxing on top to get it tight against the seat, but since the cushion cover is closed at that point", I don't understand what you mean by the cover is closed at that point.

I meant that I had the back (where the Velcro is going) open so could open up the fabric to lie the 2 pieces I'm sewing flat, overlapping (rather than on top of each other since once the bottom is on I can't sew the top on with the boxing strip either on top of it, right faces together, or under it, wrong sides together. Since the front of the cushion has 1 whole boxing strip rather than a split one, and the bottom is sewn on, the top is pinned, it's entirely closed. None of the tutorials I've seen actually shows how to handle all this fabric to sew the final panel on without everything bunching up under the needle or b/t the needle and the machine.

I did finally figure it out, sewed for about 2 hours today, tried a new spool I found in sewing box but it kept breaking, button/carpet thread was too heavy, bent a needle and had to replace it, finally put the tail end of the spool I was using yesterday that I didn't think had enough on it and went very slowly, spreading the fabric out and feeding it through. I missed a couple spots where I didn't have enough SA (and couldn't see since I was sewing on right side) and the zipper foot slipped off the cording so it didn't get as close as I wanted, but I went back and closed those up later. Good thing the thread blends in.

The foam needs to be trimmed better - it's folded in front so rounded and bulging, I need to cut it flat, it's also bulging a little on the left side. The back is just pinned, I'll put the Velcro in later - maybe I can take a little foam off the back side too.

I'm leaving the blood LOL until I sew the Velcro on so I can tell which side is the top.

Gotta go to my aunt's to start PJs now!

Your cushion looks terrific, Ajsmama! But ..... I think you may be breaking needles and thread and losing your zipper foot because your sewing machine is probably not designed to do a self-welt. Commercial products are made on specialty machines. I know my machine would not produce a good, tight cushion with a self-welt for the reasons you mention.

I also think your cover would fit the cushion more tightly and go around the curves more easily and smoothly if you applied piping/welting as a separate application.

Did you take the cushion to your aunt? Have fun making PJs. Hey! I have an idea! Maybe you could apply piping to the front of the pj top to get the feel of how it's applied. It might help you when you welt or pipe the cushions.

Sherry

Thanks Sherry. I bent the needle pulling the thread to the side so it wouldn't pull out when I started sewing. I was also using a blue needle, and I think it was too hard to go through 3 layers (top panel plus doubled for piping) of even the thin fabric. It went much easier when I switched to a purple needle (that looked more delicate to me, but package said for denim). I still have to figure out what's wrong with that brand-new thread - is it b/c it's cotton?

I didn't lose the zipper foot, it's just that I was trying to put it right on the cord to sew close, and it kept slipping off b/c the bottom of the foot is flat and the clothesline is round.

I didn't have enough of the striped fabric to make 5 cushions (one of them a double), so I figured I'd use the solid color (lightweight material but I can waterproof it) so this will be a final cushion not a prototype. 1 down, 4 to go! My aunt gave me a bunch of fabric, including 3 yds of upholstery weight blue stripe! Oh well, it's an awning stripe, all the stripes same size, and navy blue. I like my faded one better.

She said I started out with a hard project, but thought it turned out well. We didn't actually cut fabric, but she looked at what I had and rejected some (slippery silky stuff) and gave me a *lot* of nice stuff (some only a yard so I'll have to make tops or pants and find coordinating solids for other piece). I'm talking an 18-gal tote full, she has more if her DIL doesn't want it. She took the pattern pieces and laid them out on fabric, showed me what grainline means, explained the notches and marking. I might need to get some chalk or something.

I did take a remnant she had in a navy blue pinstripe and cut out an apron for DD (using HD apron from a Kids' Craft as pattern). My aunt had made me a red pinstripe one but none of that in the box. I don't have any coordinating ribbon or bias strip for the neck loop and the ties so I'll look for something when I return this other fabric to Walmart. DD is spending another night at Grandma's so maybe I can at least get the apron finished by noon so we can make banana bread together!

Oh, and I don't want to put piping on DD's PJs - she's so picky about the feel of things it would probably bother her. I'm not even going to put a button on the back of the top b/c her hair catches in it - my aunt suggested a snap. I'll try doing the next cushion (next time I have a w/e without kids) with separate piping though I probably won't cut it on the bias, to conserve fabric. If I cut it down the grain (along the selvage) it should have more stretch than across the grain, right?

I'll try doing the next cushion (next time I have a w/e without kids) with separate piping though I probably won't cut it on the bias, to conserve fabric. If I cut it down the grain (along the selvage) it should have more stretch than across the grain, right

I don't know about that. Only bias has any "stretch" and give to it; I don't think there is any difference at all in "stretch" factor between straight and crosswise grain of fabric. This is woven fabric, not knit, right? Honestly, I've never heard of making piping that isn't cut on the bias. I think you'll get wrinkles and gaps when you try to go around the curves.

Here is something to think about:

Fabric Grain:

Fabric Grain affects they way fabric will hang and drape. There are three types of fabric grain.
Lengthwise grain refers to the threads in fabric which run the length of the fabric, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric.
Crosswise grain are the threads that run perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric or the cut edge of the fabric as it comes off the bolt.
Bias grainis the thread line that is at a right angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric as it is on the bolt. The bias has stretch in woven fabric and will hang differently than a garment that has been cut on the straight or crosswise grain.
Woven Fabric:

When you are working with woven fabric, the lengthwise and crosswise grain will not have any stretch. Depending on the tightness of the weave the fabric may have "give" but it will not stretch.
The Bias grain however will stretch, making the bias grain perfect for couture areas such as covering cording to create your own piping.

Because the bias grain does react differently that the lengthwise or crosswise grain it may require special handling. For example; A skirt cut on the bias grain must hang for 24 hours before you attempt to hem it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bias grain of fabric

I can't remember what kind of fabric you're using, but it's tightly woven, right? And you're inserting clothesline? I think those two factors will make it especially difficult to go around the corners......clothesline is tight and fairly inflexible of necessity.

I'm sorry to be such a naysayer all the time, but, as they say, "I'm jus' sayin'....."

For upholstery, which is what THIS is........piping can be very soft like string or very dense like jute. I've seen it all. :0)

A seamstress can "do it all". It's just a matter of how she makes it work. :0) I like your seat cushions. I think you'll be happy if they ALL turn out like that!!! I'd be happy with THAT result. GOOD JOB!!!!

If you follow the directions for making continuous bias strips, there is no waste. That's the reason for making the tube.

Here is a link that might be useful: self bias

It will be much more difficult to get the piping to go around curves if you don't cut the fabric on the bias. The bias is what makes it flexible. You can get A LOT of bias out of just a half yard of fabric! I know this b/c I listened to the lady at the fabric store and bought an entire yard of 60" to make bias for a project. I KNEW I wouldn't need more than a half yard, if that. I have now finished the project and have used the same strip on two other projects and still have bias strip left over...

Thanks nicole. Gee, if I had known that my mom wasn't bringing DD back at 11am today (I went up there for dinner and picked her up then) I would have started another cushion yesterday! Then again I wouldn't have had time to do my mom's grocery shopping or go to Goodwill. I *never* see fabric there, someone just donated all their stash so besides what I got from my aunt I got 2 yds of pink jersey, 2 yds of pink lightweight flannel, 2 yds of a Thanksgiving print, 1 yd of red jersey still in a tube, for about a buck a yard each and .... 15 yds of plaid drapery fabric that was marked $6! I think I'm going to use it to make bedspreads for Ds's bunks beds and maybe some valances (or replace his denim roman shades).

I wasn't going to go through the trouble of cutting bias strips (and didn't think I had enough of the stripe to do it, even with continuous method). But if I make 2 chairs cushions out of the solid (with only about 4.5 yds of piping for the one I have left to do, I'll try this method with that fabric first), then I only need 15-16 yds of striped piping to do the settee and 2 chairs top and bottom. 15 yds of 1" piping would be 540 sq inches of fabric, I don't know how much you lose to cutting in the continuous method but if I start with 54" wide fabric (can cut out of a rectangle instead of a square, I found instructions) that would be 10" x 54" rectangle so I *should* be able to cut a foot off the length somewhere, with only 6 big panels and 4" wide boxing strips to lay out, even if I have to cut short strips and have seams in the corners of the boxing. I'll have to get rid of the kids to lay it all out and figure out if I have enough.

The clothesline is 3/16" and is pretty flexible - can practically bend it 180 degrees.

There is no waste with the continuous bias method, AJsmama. If it's close, you can pipe only the front and two sides, and not pipe the backs of the cushions, since that is where the closures will be. Simply taper off when you are an inch or so from the turn to the back. That would save you about a fourth of the piping.

I have another thing for you to consider: Is your clothesline very smooth? If it is rough, it will cause your piping to wear and fray faster than the rest of the fabric. It should be soft and free of any "burrs." You should be able to run your hand over it without feeling any rough spots.

"A seamstress can "do it all". It's just a matter of how she makes it work. :0)...." So true, nicole, IF she has a machine that does what she wants to do. You can't do a coverstitch if your serger doesn't have that capability. You can't do a rolled hem without a rolled hemmer. There are many specialty machines on the market (I do not have one....only a serger and an electronic sewing machine, both from 1976) and I cannot do a coverstitch or a self-welted cushion with my machines. My machine simply will not get tight enough to the piping to make a self-welt that suits me. But I can make very tight piping with the same machine and the zipper foot.

I also cannot go over three or four layers of denim with my machine, so I have to adapt. But, boy, that is very hard for me and it is far from a good job. My friend has a newer machine that does good denim hems, though, so I go to her house whenever it is important (the hem of a skirt, for instance, but not for jeans).

I'd love to have a couple new machines that do everything, but until (and IF!!!) I ever do (which I doubt - they're too expensive) I cannot do certain things. I'm happy with that. I can sew most garments (including wedding gowns and wool winter coats,) draperies, and the like. I'm happy! I just don't expect my machines to do things they cannot do.

Sherry