I hope I don't come off too offensive but I see these posts occasionally on here and while I understand the frustration the poster may be experiencing I don't feel asking a web discussion board to 'pick' something for you is really the best way to get what YOU want. As you can see there are as many opinions as people here, no one but you and your family will be living in YOUR home. To me it's all very personal, I like to think I'm the one making the important decisions. I'm also a bit of a rogue and a risk taker, if I pick something that doesn't work, I'll be the one adjusting to it or changing it. How else are you going to influence others with something a bit different or open someones eyes to a possibility? I certainly don't want my kitchen to be like anyone else's, I want the unencumbered freedom to look at what I like. I have the confidence to step out of the box and see the bigger picture, I think a lot of people on here feel similarly. I will admit that my kitchen has changed a LOT since I've been reading GW (new build). There are a lot of fantastic ideas floating about on this site and I certainly appreciate them all. Like they say 'trust your gut', if it feels right do it. 3 people might hate it but 10 people may love it. At the end of the day it's YOURS and you have to live w/it. I just couldn't look at something 20 times a day and say "I had no idea what to put there so I let them decide for me", I'd feel like an imbecile. That's one of the reasons I've never posted a picture of anything or my layout (I designed the house myself), I really don't care what the opinions of others are regarding MY space. My DW chose the master as she knew the kitchen was mine, we bounced things off of each other and family but we've been around long enough to know what we want and how it should work and to give each other the freedom of choice. I understand some people don't have confidence in there choices, aesthetic, or style but I think it would be cool if every one just did they're own thing and then compared notes. I would imagine some old 'truths' would fly out the window and all of our eyes would be open a little wider with the possibilities. Again, no intent to offend, hope I didn't. I may even be out of line :) If so sorry. MM

Parma, It was me. Here is the article: How to Pick the Best Size Chandelier for your Room By Susan Welch Heeney, ASID, Decorating Studio, LLC Whether you are selecting a chandelier or light fixture for your Dining Room or Foyer/Entry Hall, it can be confusing to decide on which size is best. Then, once you determine the correct size of light fixture, how do you determine at what height to hang it? Its really not too hard if you follow some tips that Interior Designers and Decorators use when selecting and handing chandeliers. Visual Weight of the Chandelier for a Dining Room Before following the guidelines below, keep in mind that the style and heaviness of the light fixture will affect what size you need to go with. A visually heavy chandelier can go more towards a smaller diameter. A visually light chandelier can be a little wider in diameter. ChandelierSize Over the Dining Room Table One universally correct formula for determining the correct size light fixture for the Dining Room is to go with a fixture that has a diameter that is half the diameter (or width) of the tabletop. For instance, if the Dining Room table is a rectangle of 48" wide x 72" long, a chandelier that is approximately 24" (half of the 48" width of the table) in diameter would look fabulous. If the table is a 60" round diameter, a 30" diameter chandelier would be appropriate. If you want to hang two chandeliers over an exceptionally long dinging room table (for example a table that is approximately 54" wide x 120" long), then if you select chandeliers that are 1/3 the width of the table and hang them centered on each end of the table that would be correct. Therefore each chandelier would be approximately 18" in diameter. The height of the actual chandelier should be determined on the ceiling height of the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 ½"  3" for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8 ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20" to 24" in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25" to 30" would look more appropriate. The chandelier should be hung centered over the table (unless you are installing more than 1 fixture over the table) and the bottom of the light fixture should be about 30" above the table top. Dining Room chandeliers should always have a dimmer switch so that you can use the Dining Room for a multiple of activities from romantic dinners to a study area for the kids. Chandelier Size for a Foyer or Entry Hall When you donÂt have a table to help you determine the width of the chandelier you need for a room, you base the size on the overall room dimensions. One easy favorite that rarely fails is to add the width and length of the room together in feet and convert that figure to inches to come up with the correct width of the chandelier. For example, if an Entry Hall is only 8 x 6Â, you would add 8 + 6 together which equals 14, but instead of 14 feet, it would indicate that a 14" diameter chandelier would work best. If a room is larger, say 10 x 18Â, you would figure the diameter of the chandelier by the following formula: 10 + 18 = 28 (Therefore, a 28" diameter chandelier would fit the room proportionately.) It makes sense that the higher the ceiling the taller the chandelier should be so that it will look balanced in the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 ½"  3" for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8 ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20" to 24" in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25" to 30" would look more appropriate. The chandelier in a Foyer or Entry Hall should be hung centered in the room with the bottom of the fixture no lower than 7' from the floor. 7' is the absolutel minimum to allow for head clearance. If you have a tall ceiling you should follow a rule of thumb of at least 7' 6" from the floor to the bottom of the light fixture. For more information and practical help on decorating, visit DecoratingStudio.com. All Rights Reserved, Copyright @ 2005, Decorating Studio, LLC Reprints are allowed as long as article, with by line and links to Decorating Studio at top and bottom of article are left intact.

I think getting the most distance from the corner to the stove would rate higher with me. I'm not likely to prep on the end towards the door because of the to-and-fro. In your setup, I'm not sure about the trash either. It tends to be one of those things every one wants to use at the most inconvenient times for the chef. But also, prep generates a lot of trash, compost and recycling - so I see the benefit of being able to turn and drop, but also the potential for accidents since its so close to the chef's legs. I wonder if its possible to use the angle cabinet on the other wall? Or if its possible to do 80% length drawers under the sink and convert some of the drawers to the right of the range into the trash pullouts?

This was one thing that I did not change when we redid the kitchen -- the location of the sink and cooktop. The dishwasher is to the left of the sink, there's about 24" of countertop "prep" space to the right of the sink, and then the cooktop. (I'd prefer there to be closer to 36" of countertop space between the sink and cooktop, as this is the primary prep space, but that's not an option in this kitchen.) I like having the sink and cooktop on the same run together like this. We had Thanksgiving at my SIL's house, and her sink and cooktop are across the aisle from each other. I don't like having to move things across the floor from one to the other. There's plenty of other spaces that could be used for prep, but that space between the sink and cooktop -- regardless of left or right -- is the key for me.