Thank you everyone. Your thoughts mean alot to me. Jackie, the garden is coming along beautifully except that the cane borers are at my roses again. They burrow into the new growth turning it black and ugly. It didn't ruin everything last year so I'm pulling off the dead stems and hoping for the best. We're behind you in blooms here. Pompon de Paris will start soon then I expect the Ceciles. Other things like Candituft, Ceanothus, Daffodils, Tulips, Rosemary, fruit trees etc. are blooming. Fortunately I was really ahead in my work before getting the siatica so the garden looks pretty good. Ofcourse there is always tons to do. I've been forbidden to dig but have sneaked in a very few digs. Yesterday I planted perrienels sitting down. Michael bought me the most beautiful flat of Blue Bird Delphiniums. I'm really so much better. I just can't go out and try to be wonder woman, which is why I hurt myself in the first place.

Hello! I hang in houseplants sometimes too, alot to learn over there! I think hoyas are pretty easy by comparison! Do you mean vines when you say strings? If so, sure you can cut them off, but you do take the risk of losing a vine that would potentially put out peduncles/buds. I usually just leave them be, I like the way they look, they add to the charactor of the plant...or u could wrap them around so they are no so obvious or in the way. If you don't like the bare look of the vines, keep in mind they usually do get leaves... eventually. As for repotting, hoyas can stay for years and years in small pots, and this is actually recommended for them. As they get more potbound you may have to water more or ocassionally top dress with some fresh soil, but the general rule is, the smaller the pot the better!

I completely agree with raehelen and trebruchet. That fabricated stone price is really good, and if you wait for another piece it 1) may not be quite as pretty or 2) may be much more expensive. It the scheme of things, it will look fine and once you put everything together, you'll be surprised it probably wont even bother you. As an alternative, you could do a soap dispenser in one hole and a hole cover on the other, but I think the escutcheon plate would look more delibrate and planned so I'd do that. As far as the faucet - I just got two Delta Cassidy for my master bath build and installed them this week. (I got the 1997LF version which is just like that one but a few inches taller and is called a bar/prep faucet. Needed a little more height since I have semi-recesesed sinks) and they really are GORGEOUS looking in person, especially at the price. Every remodel is a bit of give and take -- For example, I wanted undermount sinks, but due to drawer configuration in the sink bases, it was near to impossible, and "settled" with Decolav Semi-Recessed. Looking at them now, I wonder why I was so doubtful since they look spectacular. Sometimes having to shift the vision makes it even better :) Don't sweat the small stuff, get the granite piece you love, at the price that's too good to pass up, and pair with the great faucet (Even with the escutcheon plate). It will look great.

Please, elaborate a little more on how everything is tied in if you don't mind. Not questioning you just want to learn something I'm not familiar with. I'm assuming these are 5 ton coils and I see 3 on each side they are 7 1/2 ton coils, 3 per 20 ton condenser. so, 22.5 tons worth of evap capacity per 20 ton condenser. two 20 ton condensers total. condensers have a 6 cylinder semi-hermetic recip compressor in each with electric unloaders on one bank of cylinders. On the back wall in the pic is a junction box with a control transformer and relays in it. a.k.a my homemade twinning kit. I guess you could call this system twinned triplets. used one 2 stage heat, 2 stage cool digital stat. all fans run simultaneously on call for heat or cool. (set stat to energize G on call for heat as well as cool) fans run same speed for heat and cool by design so needing a lower fan speed for heat wasnt an issue. I would have to draw a schematic to explain how i wired it all up so ill just describe the sequence of operation... 1st stage cool energizes all fans, both condensers unloaded and opens 4 solenoid valves. (roughly 27ish tons feeding 30 tons of evap capacity) 2nd stage cool opens remaining two solenoid valves and loads remaining 2 cylinder heads. (40 tons feeding 45 ton total evap capacity) 1st stage heat energizes all fans first then back two furnace's burners. 2nd stage heat energizes front 2 furnace's burners. Supply duct runs thru ceiling above each coil and manifolds into a single large trunk duct in the attic above it. trunk duct runs into chapel attic to large round diffusers. Guys in our sheetmetal shop fabricated the duct. there is a normally closed sail switch in each supply duct just above the coils. R circuit from main control transformer is wired in series thru all the sail switches then to the stat. it was set up like this to sense reverse airflow. if one fan fails the sail switch on the failed unit will trip on backflow of air, shut the whole system down and energize a red LED on the stat's subbase. And did you say 2 have the heat exchangers removed? The heating load didnt require the use of the center furnaces but identical blowers are required for twinning so we just needed the fans and coils. they're basically just dummy furnaces. Church full of people in the mild central texas winters doesnt need much heat lol. the church's maintenance guy asked me to remove the heat exchangers and such so he could have spare parts readily available if needed. so we removed the HXs, gas valves and inducers out of em. we then patched the holes with insulated sheetmetal.