Thank you all very much for responding. I truly appreciate it. I know just enough about trees to know what she said wasn't correct, but she also knows I just planted my first tree 7 months ago so I didn't think she would appreciate a newbie like me questioning her response. If it wouldn't be too much trouble, could someone tell me if Black Maples are difficult to transplant? I live just a few miles from Lake Erie in NY and my soil is a very sandy loam. The trees seem to like A LOT of water. I can pour literally a hundred gallons (measured) in 20 minutes and the moment I stop the hose, the water is nowhere to be seen. It's already drained down. I didn't start out with a 100 gallons mind you. lol When we first planted the trees we started out with 10 gallons a week, then 20, then 40, then more when I was finding that the water was draining instantaneously and the soil seemed dry, a few inches down, the next day. We had 4 days of nonstop heavy rain here last week and afterwards the maple tree leaves looked even fatter and greener. I can imagine someone else with another kind of soil would blanch white at all the water I am giving my trees but they are thriving. In case anyone has now forgotten what my question was, would Black Maples be difficult to transplant? Thanks again for everyone's time.

Ann, Those probably are from me because I brought all 5 of those varieties. Here's a brief description of each: ILDI: An open-pollinated heirloom yellow grape type that is indeterminate and usually gets 5 to 6' tall in my garden. It produces heavy yields of bright yellow oval-shaped tomatoes in clusters. You'll often see Ildi sold as "Yellow Grape" at Farmer's Markets. Is a pretty early producer with a DTM of about 53-54 days. I've grown it in a pot, but it stayed smaller and didn't produce as many fruit per plant as it does when in the ground. GOLD BALL: Also known as Livingston's Gold Ball. This is an heirloom open-pollinated tomato first introduced by A. W. Livingston in 1892. The plants are indeterminate and usually get 5-6' tall in my garden. The plants produce large yields of beautiful canary yellow round tomatoes slightly larger than a cherry tomato--almost the size of a ping pong ball. Some people like to use Gold Ball (and Yellow Pear or both together) to make tomato preserves or tomato marmalade. DTM is about 65 days. Has done pretty well when grown in a large container (10-15 gallon). ROSE QUARTZ: This is an indeterminate open-pollinated plant from Japan that produces deep rose pink cherry tomatoes in clusters. DTM: 65 days. The tomatoes are more grape-shaped than cherry-shaped and some people see "off" shapes like slightly plum-shaped or slightly pear-shaped fruit. Gets about 5' tall in my garden and slightly smaller in a large container. PRIMETIME F-1 HYBRID: From Harris Seed. This is an excellent late-season tomato with a DTM of about 80-84 days. It always produces ripe fruit in my garden in July and August when many other tomatoes have shut down production. The fruit are large, very smooth, round, deep red and quite tasty. The vines are Determinate, but they are large Determinates, usually around 4.5 to 5' tall in my garden. Very heavy yields on very disease-resistant plants. In my garden, they produce better in the ground than in pots, but then my pots are close to the barn and get pretty hot. RED DEFENDER F-1 HYBRID. Also from Harris Seed. New this year for me and one I'm very excited about trying. This is a midseason variety so it should produce ripe fruit in 70-75 days from the date of transplant. Is supposed to produce heavy yields of large to very large, deep red, round fruit on Determinate plants that have outstanding disease resistance, including intermediate resistance to the dreaded Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus. It is said to have excellent flavor and is one of the "new" varieties bred with the flavor gene that gives it larger amounts of furaneol, which you can read about in the attached link. I haven't grown it before, so I am going to try one in the ground and 1 in a container. I hope they all do well for you. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Hybrid Tomatoes With Enhanced Flavor

I don't wash anything in cold water except some "collectible" decorated/screened cotton t-shirts that are variously black, navy, chocolate brown, or red. And that cold water may be 80°F+ degrees during summer months (TX), which is higher than the ATC warm temp (75°F-ish) on some (crippled) machines nowadays. Cold wash water shouldn't be less than 65°F so I temper it with warm if necessary during winter weather. Regards to towels, cotton white and light/pastel towels (and kitchen linens and white cotton socks) I give full-hot treatment between 130°F and 140°F depending on where I set my tankless water heater for the load. And chlorine bleach is usually added. No, they are not yellowed. Point of info, my dad gave to me a few very nice towels he found in their neighbor's trash (he kept a few as well) that were apparently used for decorative purposes and they had redecorated and tossed the towels. A couple had some discoloration on fold-lines. The discoloration disappeared after several washes. My go-to warm is 102°F to 105°F. Warmer is 112°F to 115°F. These temp ranges are used for casuals, shirts, shorts, underwear, slacks, jeans, bedding & blankets. I think people are being much too paranoid about shrinking. My sister is one who washes everything in cold "so our shirts don't shrink." Happens there was an incident a couple years ago when she got my grandmother's washer after granny died. Hubby connected the hot/cold hoses in reverse, so her cold wash and rinse was hot for several weeks. The machine kept beeping for help when the expected cold water flow was hot but they didn't know what that meant until I heard about it and advised what's the cause. Anyway, I never heard any mention that all their clothes had shrunk during that interim. Also, her old washer (a 1985 Maytag toploader) had a musty/smutzy odor from accumulated scum due to the cold water washing. I did hear her complain a few times about needing to find a good-smelling detergent (to cover the odor), and she uses a lot of Bounce dryer sheets. Keep in mind also that low temp on most dryers is 125°F to 135°F and high temp is 145°F to 155°F. Moisture evaporation initially keeps the fabric temp lower but items approach the target temp as the load progresses toward dryness.

Nik, I do think it's too soon to tell much about such an immature plant; especially without any close-up photos of leaves, buds, thorns, etc. I did suggest 'Rose Edouard', but I meant that to be a starting place for exploration, certainly not as a definitive ID. I wondered if the rose 'Palmyre' might be called that because at one point that was a scion that didn't survive. 'Rose Edouard' and 'Céline' are two popular Bourbon rootstocks that often survived the roses grafted onto them, and early descriptions of 'RE' and 'Céline' both seem like good candidates. The HMF photos for both roses seem to me to not match up too well with the early references, but others may disagree. 'Céline', incidentally, was described early on as both a Hybrid Bourbon and a Hybrid China. I believe that William Paul started out calling her a Bourbon or Hybrid Bourbon, but then began calling her a Hybrid Chinese. Virginia