Their are other factors that besides just quality, why some manufacturers use elastic webbing, some because of a shallow design in the seat deck, others because the frames arent strong enough to support sinuous springs. Ask about the frame construction and warranty. Place your hand directly under the front of the seat cushion, this area should be very well padded, if you feel any part of the wood frame then the front edge of seat cushion will break down after not very much use. If its well padded and soft and has a solid frame, if you like the style and sit of the elastic webbing you should be ok.

Hi, ajsmama. I have often marveled that all the beautiful soft baby flannels in the fabric stores are all labeled "Not intended for children's sleepwear" Then what the heck is it for? Flannel curtains? I use all of what you've suggested for sleepwear for my gkids. A few things you might think about: I sleep like the princess who felt the pea; perhaps your dtr does, too. By that I mean that I feel every wrinkle in the sheets and pjs, and I am very temperature sensitive. Polyester clothing is the most miserable feeling in the world against my skin. No rashes or anything, just a feeling like I'm wrapped in plastic, hot and cold at the same time. Natural fabrics like 100% cotton, silk, wool, linen do not have that effect on me. I don't know how old your dtr is, but perhaps she is "poly-sensitive" (I made up that term) just like I am. Believe me, if her clothing makes her twitchy or hot/cold, she's miserable. Natural fabrics are the way to go. My two year old grandson had a zillion adorable fleece blankets and sleepers when he was born, didn't sleep for five minutes straight. His mommy tried everything, finally put him in cotton clothing on cotton sheets and the whole family got some rest. It might be worth a try. I sound like an old bitty on the subject sometimes, but I wonder if some ADHD kids might just be sensitive to their clothing, not truly ADHD at all. What my clothing is made of makes a HUGE difference in the way I feel, so I am careful never to wear poly any more. For me, it matters. Sherry

That gaping at the back waistband is a result of the popularity of a badly drafted pattern. Somewhere along back a few years there emerged a badly drafted factory pattern that was calculated not to make a more flattering garment, rather to speed and make easier cutting the garment in the factory. Your waistband may not be cut on the lengthwise grain. That is going to affect how it conforms and fits and puts it at odds with the grain line of the rest of the pants. This badly fitting pattern gave us camel toe and that awful low waistband that caused so much muffin top and pants that are hard to be active in and that ride down our bodies all the time to where we are constantly hiking them back up. This poor draft and bad fit became the fashion norm. Go figure!!! You can add a sewn on casing to the inside of the back waistband and thread some wide elastic through it. Don't be surprised if you find the pants pulling awkwardly in some other direction if you do that. It is only the fabric of the waistband that is in excess and the top of the back seam of the pants has no excess. So it has to pull from somewhere, probably along the back seam. If it is a loose and roomy fit that you are dealing with, you might not notice it much. But if the pants are tighter you may notice it and you may get no benefit from doing so. I assume that you are talking about ready to wear? Sometimes the details and the threads and such make it quite difficult to do too much altering in most ready to wear. You know that quality mens' pants are sewn with a back seam that is continuous with a back seam in the waistband so that they can be tailored to fit easily. Of course, not at kohl's, but in a quality men's store. Most women' clothes have no such option sewn in to them and you are on your own with it. If you really wanted, you could remove the waistband and sew a waist facing instead. But, that is a lot of work.

I made the craftpassion masks and I find them to run a bit small, too. I would step up a size in all of the sizes and use the patterns with SA drawn in as finished lines and add an additional SA to it. I like the one for the nurse, too. There is a longer dart at the nose and a shorter dart at the chin. What I have settled on that seems to work best for me as far as the ties goes, is to create a casing on each side of the mask, either of these two masks. Then run your tie in one continuous strip up through the casing from the bottom, across the top , down the casing on the other side and have it tie around the back of your neck. Put the mask on, sit the upper ties on your ears, and then pull down on each side of the ties to cinch it up and then tie it around the back of your neck. It makes more sense when you actually do it. I have actually made the ties longer so that they can be crossed over in the back and brought around to the front of the neck and tied because my husband cannot tie behind his head very well. I have found that you can make ties from a good solid interlock knit fabric or a rib knit. The rib knit will have more stretch. This method works well with fabric ties too. I have found that you can make pretty ties if you make them as you would an old fashioned sash on a an old fashioned little girls dress. We used to make them for little girls dresses. They were a couple of inches wide and either sewn and turned or they were narrow hemmed. If you make a sash type of tie, you will also want to make your casings a bit wider than you would if you were going to use something more narrow. But, I have found that, to avoid elastic, you can make ties out of different materials and they work well when threaded in this manner. Just remember to keep in mind how thick or wide your material for the ties is. It needs room within the casing to be able to draw easily. I have found that this arrangement of ties gives the ability to cinch it up nicely with many different things that are used for ties. It has been my experience that the continuous tie should be about a yard long for most cases. If you are making a sash type of tie, I would use a full width of 45" wide fabric. I found that this method works for both the pleated and the non pleated masks. Ali.....I woudl suggest that you make your mask a bit deeper and make each of the pleats a little deeper. I have added two inches to the depth on some. I notice that a lot of people get that little gap on the sides of their masks. It is my opinion that adding the ties as I have suggested does take care of that gap most times. I also sew any interlining to the facing piece and not the front piece, and I cut out the bulk in the seams. I just can't help myself but to apply old fashioned old school sewing of understitiching, top stitching, grading seams, basting to the seam line, easing, hemming, etc. It is the way I learned to construct and to sew.