Granabelle, I'm sorry to hear about your dilema. Hopefully your DH can resolve things. It's frustrating nontheless, especially knowing how expensive RH is. -I'm just curious as to which size medicine cabinet and style light fixture that you have from RH? I also just recently ordered the cartwright recessed medicine cabinet and will need some sort of lighting to extend above it. If I might also ask, how great a depth (exension) would you suggest the fixture be to clear the molding? -TIA, DG

Per ASTM standards all outside diameter of Copper Pipe, both hard drawn (rigid) & Annealed (roll copper pipe) are made to the exact same size standards whether it is name brand or generic. The outside diameter remains constant and the difference in wall thickness is made up on the inside diameter. By example: 1/2" copper pipe both rigid & roll has an OD of 0.625". type K ID is 0.527" type L ID is 0.545" type M ID is 0.569" ASTM allows a slight tolerance on the ID (female opening) of fittings by example: for 1/2" fittings the ID of the fitting may be a maximum of 0.631" and a minimum of 0.627". From my experience the couplings are usually the tightest and sometimes difficult to fit on the pipe, but they will fit however with only 0.002" difference they can be difficult unless the pipe is perfectly round and both the pipe & fittings have been properly deburred and cleaned prior to fitting. Great care should be taken when handling copper pipe. Simply dropping a length of a concrete floor can be enough force to knock the end of the pipe out of round, making fitting a joint nearly impossible. Copper pipe should only be cut with a good quality tubing cutter that is properly used. The tension should be increased as the cutter is rotated around the pipe. Simply placing the cutter on the pipe, cranking down the tension then rotating the cutter is enough to force the pipe wall out of round and seriously damage the cutter wheel on your cutter. (Those cheap little red mini cutters are at best useless) Under no circumstances should a hack saw ever be used to cut copper unless you are tearing out old work and planning to dispose of the copper. If you have a lot of fittings to clean here is a trick. Get on of the cheap wire fitting brushes with the simple wire loop handle and cut the handle off the shaft, then chuch the shaft of the brush in your cordless drill. You can then perfectly clean the ID of a fitting in a couple seconds.

I saw Lascatx's amazing spice drawer photo on this forum, & did the same thing, only the 4 oz. jar size, about 45 cents each from Specialty Bottle online. I really enjoy having all the containers alike instead of the mishmash of bottle sizes I used to put up with, and the wider jar opening is so much easier to measure out from. I labelled the lids using a Brother labelmaker. I love Penzeys & their bulk packaged spices are much less expensive & better quality. I did get some shaker jars for the few seasonings that we sprinkle, & those are stored in an upper cupboard on a lazy susan. My brother (also a foodie) raved about my finished spice drawer, so we gave him a spice jar collection for his birthday.

Everytime I write on this thread, I think I am giving a clear picture of what the problem is about the cabinets not fitting. Then, some new information makes the situation change. Now I understand both the original problem, some complicating factors, and so far the promised solution. What I want to share is the beginning of the problem so that maybe others might be able to avoid it. Our KD took measurements. We took the cabinets down and re applied sheetrock. What we think happened now, is that the old sheetrock may have been 3/8" sheetrock, and our new sheetrock was 1/2" (which I guess is standard). I never even knew to question the size, just assumed all sheetrock for walls was the same. ( I do think the person who put it up should have known.) We lost 1/4" on that run of cabinetry. There was a potential to shave off 1/8 at the end of a corner cabinet, but neither my installer, nor the "expert" I hired wanted to touch those cabinets, being a difficult angle and difficult cut of such a small amount. This was the problem that caused the need for new cabinets. What further complicated the situation is that the KD had added a 1/4" extension to two of the upper cabinets. They automatically had to come off. The wall was 1" too small with those two problems mentioned. Then, there were extensions of 1/2" on two bottom cabinets, which also automatically had to be removed. We still do not fully understand why he would add to the cabinets, and I think this expectation that there is for the installer to trim purposefully added dimension should at least be communicated. My installer did not expect the extensions, (or the problem created by the dry wall) but nor did he measure before beginning the install. I think he heavily relied on his previous experience with this company making very good quality cabinets. When we phoned the cabinet company, they did not send any one to check it out and sort out the problem, only gave advice to trim the cabinets and criticized the installer. In my opinion, the custom cabinet makers should have some prior experience with dry wall sizes to anticipate that if they measured prior to demolition of a 60 year old kitchen, that they should either re-measure or inform the homeowner of the issue. The mistakes added up. We paid a hefty fee for the "expert" as I will call him. We were stressed and confused as to what the problem was and that we could not get the job completed, and now the company has promised to make two new cabinets. Guess the message is to know that some custom cabinetry is done this way, to be sure about the dry wall, and if possible it may be better to have the cabinet company do the install. (not a choice in my case, but wish they would have even advised me to use someone they recommended)