Try and distinguish between the new growth and the oldest leaves, especially on artichokes. As long as the rhizomes stay healthy, the leaves & fruit will eventually come, no matter how ratty any one leaf looks. Transplant shock can be rough and produce stress signs in all plants, but it's best to wait it out a bit and see if the new growth recovers. Splashing soil up on the leaves while watering can produce yellow & black spotting too, it's one of my biggest challenges, as a moment of garden ADHD while watering means I've just splattered an entire row of seedlings with soilborne fungi and bacteria. It's often localized and never spreads beyond the affected leaf, except on my solanums (tomato, eggplant, potatoes, ...) it can mean I've just sent early blight everywhere, as I can't seem to get that disease out of my garden ever since my Home Depot tomatoes were infested. Whiteflies leaving your nursery-bought plants is a huge problem, it's illegal for the nursery to sell you infested plants. Get a refund and/or find another nursery. I rarely use box stores anymore, their pest prevention is weak (at best).

Hi, if your tomatoes are laying on the ground then that's not good. Rot is common in those conditions. If they're not on the ground then you're experiencing Blossom End Rot. This is common early in the fruiting period and usually clears up. Try to adjust your watering so it penetrates deeply and don't water so often. Use some kind of mulch to retain moisture at a constant level. Don't fertilize again until the BER departs. You'll be told that this is a calcium problem but don't add any at this time. You should be fine. Best of Luck.

You did all the right things, and the important thing is whether the roots and canes survived, not necessarily if the new growth survived. The roses can handle losing or drying out of the new growth because it's tender, and it's possible to get past the mold if it hasn't damaged the canes themselves. Do pull off any moldy foliage and watch the canes for signs of canker or cane blight, which would be large black patches that start circling or extending down the cane. You can still cut below the canker and the rose can survive, but with the mold and moisture issues you want to pay attention to them for a while. Bottom line is that you're right to check back with the company and see what they can do to compensate, but it doesn't necessarily mean the roses are dead. Bare root roses can be resilient, it just depends on how dry the roots got in transition and how well they've retained some healthy roots to support the cane growth. Sympathies on the damaged roses though - you're right to be frustrated. Cynthia

Thanks, guys..... I'm encouraged by your positive comments. I will def try grow-lights for my plants. I killed some of the best plants, expensive too, over the years because NYC winters are really terrible for my fat-plants, that usually grow in sunny deserts. I will tell you, NYC ain't no sunny desert when winter comes. If I'm lucky, I'll get maybe 4 months of good growing conditions....May-Sept....and then, the cultural challenges begin. But, try, I must....once again. Adeniums, culturally, are far more difficult to grow well than my other, way easier, fat-plants, i.e. Bursera fageroides and Operculicarya decaryi/pachypus. These fat-trees go dormant in Nov-Dec, and stay quiescent until early-spring. I give them a little moisture, usually around the end of March, and then, they're off.....and get fatter each year. They grow in classic gritty mixture with ferts. Nice plants, but no showy flowers. On a scale of 1 to 10....(#1 -being easy, and #10 -very difficult), I'd rate Adenium between 7-9. A real PITA under less than ideal growing conditions. But, it's those flowers! If it wasn't for the showy flowers, I wouldn't even bother with growing them. Fat trunks and odd, twisted, roots can be found on other, much easier, plants. Just saying. Frank NYC/7b