1) Our pond will be semi raised. We are thinking of using concrete block for the structure and facing the outside with stone. The raised portion will only be 18 inches high. Will the liner be okay over the concrete with a regular (i.e. what the place we'll purchase the liner from will sell us) underliner. Thoughts, comments, vast imporvements? Don't waste money on underlayment....just get some scrap carpet and use that instead. Carpet protects the liner from the blocks much better than underlayment and it is free. 2) How large a pumphouse would we need to house an external pump and biofilter? depends on what kind of filter you will be using. Some take up a lot of room....some don't. Instead of using a 100 gallon tank, you could use two 55 gallon plastic barrels. Available used from many sources for around $8 each (or sometimes free) 3) How much do we need to worry about freezing? Some pipes will be exposed (must come out of ground to connect to settling chamber.) I am assuming that we will run things all winter. I'm in the mid-Willamette Valley, so we don't get frozen too often. If you are running the pond all winter, freezing won't be much of a problem. Water will freeze in small diameter pipes and drain lines though, so wherever your clean-out drains are on your filters you may need some winter protection. I just stack bags of compost on top of the lines and valves and never had one break. 4) We are going with a 2 inch bottom drain as all our fish will be goldfish. Would they be safe with a 3 inch drain? Will one drain be sufficient? It appears you are gravity feeding a settling tank and then pumping cleaned water back to the pond....right? Forget a 2" drain. A 2" drain will only gravity flow about 900 gallons per hour at the most. Not nearly enough. A 3" line will flow about 2000 gph and a 4 " drain will flow around 3500 gph. You will want to turn the pond over every hour (3500 gallon pond should filter 3500 gallons per hour), so size the drain to match your pump. The size of the drain has nothing to do with the size of the fish. When you set the drain, you install the dome cover so that there is only about 3/8" gap between the edge of the cover and the pond bottom. This will exclude most fish. If any DO go thru the drain, they will just end up in the settling tank where you can rescue them.

I too like my privacy and was amazed that this is possible without opting in. Based on your post I went to Photos/Options/People tagging. There it showed that I was allowing others to view but I dragged the pointer down to "Just me" and saved, now these are not visible to others. Then I went to Options/Privacy/Advanced and see other things to be edited to control my privacy. Remember to save after changing of course. Here is the info on deleting your photo. You might find one or two other snippets of interest there for Skydrive. I found this after writing the first part of my reply.

You had better replace that panel A.S.A.P. I have the same problem, well HAD the same problem. I fixed it but due to a safety issue i can't tell you what i did. Your buss bars are separating. The screws are coming loose on the main strips under all the breakers. You can't see them unless you remove all breakers. My main breaker would trip " without " the handles moving. It was a 125 amp breaker and would trip on 60 amps. It was red hot and actually burned one contact leg. I had to freeze the breaker before i could reset it. My double throw breaker on my pool heater would also trip " without " the handle moving. Drove me nuts for a week. I decided to quit being lazy one day and checked for power at the pool. Low and behold, no power. Breaker didn't trip. So i thought. It tripped. Handel didn't move. Is your load balanced ?

Isn't the center screw on an 2 prong outlet the equivalent of ground/neutral (inside the receptacle they are wired together)? On the 3 prong adapters, you have a prong that comes out of the bottom of the adapter ground lug to attach to this screw for grounding purposes (see link at the bottom for a picture of what I'm talking about). Follow me here...If the plug is wired with reverse polarity, then the center screw is live. The ground wire on a PC screws directly to the metal case of the power supply, which in turn connects to the metal case that connects every other part inside the PC to this ground lug. In this scenario, the case of the power supply (and subsequently the PC) is live. While I will agree that reverse polarity is fine, but only if you were to reverse the 2 wires. With this 3 prong adapter, we have 3 wires reversed: The hot has become neutral, the neutral has become hot, and the ground lead has become hot. This would equate to a direct short in the PC power supply. With a 3 prong receptacle that has been wired in reverse, the hot becomes neutral, the neutral becomes hot, and the ground stays ground. No problem here...PC will still work fine. I disagree that this was coincidence. I have seen many power supplies go, and they can be graceful...but they can also be violent with sparks and even flames. Here is a link that might be useful: Grounding adapter