Yes, we have a couple of areas in our current house with vaulted ceilings. One area has a couple of inches of high-R rigid foam under the shingles (they are nailed through it). Another general approach is to put in sleepers on top of your roof decking and put in fiberglass batts and then roof decking on top of that with shingles. That's essentially what we have in the other vaulted ceiling area, although it was built that way, not added on. Neither roof has had any leakage problems in the time that we've lived here (about 15 years now). In another house, we had beautiful low-pitch rough red roof decking vaulted ceiling with the redwood showing on the inside. The house came with roll composition roofing on it, but really needed insulation in the roof. Due to the lower pitch, we had a couple of layers of rigid foam hot-mopped onto the roof decking, and then a tar and gravel roof hot mopped onto the top layer of rigid foam. This worked extremely well, and also did not have any leakage problems. -Roger

All right, I think I've managed to cook up what you mean in terms of the soffit. (I'm certain the fault is mine if I've failed.) The biggest issue I can see now is the discrepancy in doorframe styles . . . not sure how to reconcile the pantry opening's lack of trim with the trim on the other three openings that are just a few feet away. Unless -- it just came to me as I'm looking at the new pictures -- I raise the bottom of the soffit enough to allow for trim? I definitely know what you're talking about regarding the cabinet paneling. Good tip. I'm going to wait to create it in the program until I figure out how to properly program all this soffit stuff, though. Right now I just have a 1' 8" "room" containing my kitchen cabinets. :-)

Hi,The attic has been a livable bedroom when I bought the house what I wanted to do to create the illusion of more space was to expose the historic rafters and make a knee wall (HVAC on left side) and run sheet rock between them and keep the beams exposed and also vault the ceiling.There are 2 gable vents at either of the roof and no soffit vents just blown in insulation. I'm planning to put blocks in to keep 1 inch between the roof deck and the foam board for air flow then put in foam board insulation on top before sheetrock.Since there are going to be two slim recessed lighting going in there will be a flat space at the topm..... so to vent can I run a PVC pipe end to end with holes or move the vents up?Are they necessary if I add soffit vents?PS. I'm only vaulting half the ceiling so the other vent is there but I know I need intake and outtake.Do they sell mini vents at HD that go up higher?Thanks!Here's Google Photos Album https://photos.app.goo.gl/k8R3YcEvcwtoyKyt9

Attic insulation usually falls into two categories - (most common) leave as unconditioned space, where the attic is vented outside and insulation is installed in the room ceiling below, or create conditioned space, where the attic vents are sealed, the roof deck is insulated and the room ceiling below usually does not have insulation. In your new attic area it sounds like you have conditioned space. If you want to leave it as conditioned space, most contractors will recommend venting it to the rest of the house to maintain a moderate level of air flow through the area. This could be something as simple as an HVAC grill in each end of the area to allow air flow, or you could also install a circulating fan. I have a conditioned attic and I chose to leave it unvented. It is a relatively high volume area (full attic), and during hot weather it seems to stay within about 10 degrees of the temp set in the house. My A/C unit is also located there, so I probably get some residual cooling effect from the duct runs, even though they are insulated. Bruce