Thanks for the advice. Since I was recently diagnosed with Asthma I am very concerned about the irritants. At this point, I am pretty surre I am going to change my mind about the glue-down and go with an alternative. What do you think about a floating floor? I know my contractor is not a big fan of it..he says it shifts and doesnt feel that great underfoot. Is it much less expensive to install then a nail down? Thanks so much for your advice, it is greatly appreciated. Melanie

One option to consider is cork flooring. Have you thought about this? It's eco-friendly and about the same price as regular hard wood floors with labor included (although it is easy to do yourself I think). I personally have not had it done but have heard great things. This site has some cork flooring reviews if you're interested. Here is a link that might be useful: Viewpoints Cork Flooring Reviews

Although not in any way 'necessary' due to the self-interlocking nature of the click system. (In fact that was why it was developed) However, there is absolutely no reason I can ascertain why the click systems can't also be nailed or glued down to the substrate if desired just like an engineered T+G system if one likes the totally solid feel underfoot. Solid wood flooring is nailed or glued down to try to limit its thermal movement. Engineered flooring is in fact cross plyed layers of wood anyway which are all glued to each other to enhance stability. So fixing it again down to the substrate rather than installing in a floating way would have no adverse effects. It would be in no way any messier (as suggested by user floorguy) than any other system ! It is all in the skill of the installer. Not all DIYers are hacks after all. Infact they can do a better/neater job than a pro as they are not conscience of the time to finish and move on to the next job. But like i said, it rather goes against the point of the system BUT can be done if required. Achitect

I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................