Ideally fall bulbs should be planted in September or October, but it is not uncommon for people living in our zones to plant bulbs in November as long as the ground isn't frozen or if it is, as long as it's not frozen the six inches or so down. Most of my tulips are from clearance bulbs that I bought in October or November and just plunked them into the soil. I think after a few days in the cool but not frozen soil (even if the air temps aren't that great), the bulbs sort of adjust. The ground does eventually freeze, but hopefully by that time the bulbs are adjusted. I guess it depends on what type of bulbs and how valuable they are to you, since not all the bulbs may survive winter but there are alot of people who buy the bulbs on clearance and just plunk them in. For winter you may want to ensure you shovel snow on top, or even mulch with leaves first. In spring, however, you will find that these bulbs will come up later than the bulbs already growing in your yard, at least for the first year. I have also done indoor forcing of bulbs and it worked fairly well. All I did was find a shallow sort of pot (actually, one of those "candy tubs" that candy comes in, plant the bulbs in soil, moisten a bit and put into the fridge for a while. A cold room or cool basement would probably be ideal, since it would save fridge space. Glen

Thanks, I'm going to look for it, I'm tired of bringing wines.

Hello and welcome to the world of soapmakers. I will try to answer your questions to the best of my knowledge. 1. You used a poor quality M&P soap. I make M&P soap, and it is wonderful. However, I only use the best available, and as far as performance, you can't tell it from Cold Process or Hot Process soap. If you want to make a good bar of soap, use a good base. Because of my allergies to additives, I have to use SFIC base, which is natural and contains no alcohols, surfactants, etc. The lather is exquisite. You can only purchase it on line at various places; I buy mine from Acorn Soap and Supplies. 2. Yes, all soap is made with lye, whether it is M&P, CP or HP. It all begins with lye. Properly made, there is no lye left, so to speak, when the saponification process is done. An improperly made lye soap can cause a lot of skin irritation, as the lye will burn the skin. (So I have heard- I have never used a bad bar of soap, but I have heard people talk about burning their skin.) 3. The differences in the types of soap are minimal as far as skin care. A high quality M&P like SFIC is just as easy on your skin as a super-fatted, all natural CP or HP soap. There are many skin conditioning additives that you can add to each kind of soap (yes, you add things to M&P to enhance it, if you so desire). As far as fragrance, M&P holds fragrance much better than CP or HP, and the fragrance is much more pronounced in M&P. Also, the same fragrance will smell totally different in M&P than it does in CP or HP because the saponification process (which the M&P has already undergone) drastically changes the fragrance. 4. I am not sure what Cetaphil is, but if it is a bar soap it is made with lye. Liquid soap does not contain lye, to the best of my knowledge. By far the best soap for eczema is African Black Soap. Just make sure you are buying real African Black Soap, which looks like a lump of dirt. This is what my customers use for eczema and I do, too. It is pricey, but worth every penny of it. Again, I have sensitivies to additives and chemicals, so I must use all-natural products, which is why I use the African Black Soap over conventional medications. I hope I have been of help. Happy soapmaking! Susan

Was hoping that somebody here could spare some flower seeds , my mum has always wanted to start a little garden but she just never gets round to it. So i thought i would try get some seeds for her and hopefully get a few flowers she doesn't even know exist makes the bloom of them more of a surprise :) thanks let us know