Creative Ways to 'Move Out' During Remodel
shaiken
17 years ago
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richard_remodels
17 years agofairegold
17 years agoRelated Discussions
lily bulb storage during a move
Comments (2)They shouln't be allowed to dry out too much, it depends how long they are going to be out of the ground for. If it's only for a couple of weeks and you can keep them coolit shouldn't be too much of a problem, but if they get too warm they can develop mould....See MoreMice moving in during remodeling
Comments (5)I use an Ultra Rat Zapper to catch & kill the critters. We live out in the boonies, in the mountains, so there are always lots of them. I found when using poisons, you never know where the critter ends up dying. If they die in your walls.....well, you can imagine what will happen. Dead, smelly critters you can't find, or get to! Eeeeew!...See MoreIs there a way to move toilet over 2” w/o moving the hole in the slab?
Comments (39)@Jan Moyer we are hiring a professional contractor. I sent the plans to him yesterday. waiting on his estimate. i have spent a lot of time on it. during my initial consultation with him he didn’t think to turn the tub. He did however say that a 34 inch wide shower was fine since it’s 54 deep. i actually don’t want the chandelier direcyltky over the tub. I’m thinking id like it centered in the section of the “room” with the tub. my husband wants to keep the tub parallel to the window and says 34 inches will be fine in the shower. so yes i got more gray hair over this for nothing. cest la vie! we kept the wood louvered doors original to the house so thats why I’m putting the mirrors on the wall. i am toting with the idea of having them trimmed up on the walls likr this the original 70s bathroom had giant unframed mirrors surrounding the tub like walls. I still have all those mirrors. i know this type Of trim work will be expensive. I‘d like to get an estimate on it though. i just moved the closet door away from tub. That was still the original/existing location.. back to the hall. I’m not sure why my blue & yellow lines pic didn’t post. Trying again one yellow line is the wall I’m talking about. The other yellow line is the distance/walking space I’m talking about. The blue line is where the wall exists now. I know 56” is enough in the bathroom and that 40 or more is enough in the hall. I have to move the wall no matter what though so i‘m trying to figure out the best place to move it to. The hall is 20 feet long. and is currently 40 inches wide then widens to 64” wide after you pass the kids bath. as it is on the plans, the hall is 48” inches after the kids bath, and the space between the vanity counter and the wall with shower and water closet is 56”. The contractor thought i should give the other 8” inches to the bathroom and make the hall 40 inches. Then he went and looked at the hall and said well it is a long hall so i can see why you like some extra width here....See MoreNeed creative remodeling help and suggestions
Comments (15)"Also thinking on the bottom wall to have counter to ceiling cabs with pocket doors that can be open for prep and access to countertop appliances but that can close and hide all the mess when not in use." The problem with counter-to-ceiling cabs in a prep space is that you lose significant counter space with the cabinets. Even with 12"D uppers and 30" counters (which you may have an issue doing if you cannot reduce the size of the Dining Room doorway), that still leaves you with only 17" of workspace in front of the upper cabinets (30" - 12"D upper cab - 1" door = 17") --- too shallow for any real work. If you want to do that, I suggest a 36" to 42" wide space in the middle that has standard uppers (15"D & 18" off the counter) and then flanking that space with 15" to 18" deep uppers to the counter. Also, keep in mind that with 30" deep uppers, accessing upper cabs only 12" deep will be difficult for most people. If your sister and mother are tall (> 6'), they may be OK with it. Most people will probably only be able to reach things up to about chest high...they'll have to lean far in to reach even that far up. Oh, and if you have cabs to the counter, if someone is working at the counter with bowls, pots, etc., sitting there, you won't be able to open the doors behind the dishes, etc. If you go with it, I suggest drawers for the first 12" or so above the counter before switching to shelving. That will help with access. What it sounds like you really want is a "reach-in" pantry that has counters & cabs that can be opened/closed to hide the entire space (& mess) when not in use for prepping....See Morefairegold
17 years agodeniseandspike
17 years agodoboy65
17 years agoshaiken
17 years agokec01
17 years ago
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shaikenOriginal Author