Is there a way to move toilet over 2” w/o moving the hole in the slab?
bridget helm
4 years ago
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live_wire_oak
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Is it Easy to Move a Toilet 3 to 6 Inches on Concrete Slab?
Comments (9)That was interesting to learn about PT. Wow! The more I learn, the more I learn how much I don't know! Anyhow,... in our township the permit for plumbing is only $20 for each fixture that you're moving/adding. So, in our case it was $60 for this bathroom- one for the shower, one for the sink, and one for the new furnace room drain. Cheap, cheap, cheap, for the peace of mind it provides. When the inspector comes out, my DH will either get confirmation that he did everything right or a free lesson/advice on what he needs to correct! Our experience with all the inspectors has been so positive- We were able to prevent a potential catastrophe when building our deck a few years ago. Though it pissed me off at the time that we had to have our septic tank dug down to and get inspected (is our township's way of insuring things get upgraded to code as the years go by), it turned out to be a good thing. The previous owners had actually just covered up a broken cement slab cover with plywood! Not only was that under 5 feet of soil- but it blocked access from the manhole (What were they thinking!!!), so we would have been unable to get the tank pumped. It was a large tank with only one manhole, so we had another manhole slab made with reinforced concrete (original slabs were not reinforced which I guess is why they broke in the first place), so that now the septic tank can be accessed at both ends. Long story, but we often speculate what might have happened if we'd had a septic back-up or if the slab had completely broken and 5 ft long cement manhole and all had fallen into the tank with all that soil in the middle of a rainy November! Here is another pic showing that we had to dig the hole larger as original drain plumbing was a convoluted collection of 45 degree pieces, and at 1 1/2" not up to code anyways! So, DH has to access the 3" waste pipe further back. He suggest that you guys check out some DIY books on plumbing and your local municipality on its specific plumbing code. You can draw up your plans and go and ask them to check it out for you- that won't cost anything....See MoreMoving Toilet on Slab
Comments (8)Thank you all for your helpful advice. We made the center of the drain hole 12" from the wall. I hope this is what is meant by 12" rough-in? It looks like the toilet is a bit father from the back wall than it was before. It is 1 1/2" off the wall. Not sure why this happened. The distances from the side walls are to code-it is about 16 1/2". The flange ended up almost flush with the the concrete. It is maybe 1/8" higher. DH had finished it before I saw the post saying that it should be flush with the finished floor. I hope this won't be a problem once we add the tile. DH read that it was possible to add an extender on top of the flange. Is it likely this will be necessary or should we just put in two wax rings? We decided to replace the toilet after we are done with the shower. (Kind of a bummer but we don't want to run out of $ before we finish it.) Here is a photo of the new location....See MoreBest Way to Move a Toilet Closet Flange? (w/pics)
Comments (3)Your descriptions are a bit confusing. In the text with the first picture you stated that the 2" on the upper left side is the vent, while the 2" extending to the right is the drain line from the lavatory (bathroom sink). If that is correct, then both of those lines are illegal. If that were in fact a vent line with nothing else attached it would be illegal because code prohibits any horizontal run of a vent until the vent reaches an elevation at least 6" higher than the flood level rim of the highest fixture served by that vent. If that 2" line is in fact the drain line from the lavatory it is also illegal. The code mandated size for a lavatory bowl drain is 1-1/4". The code will permit increasing the size of a line or trap by a maximum of one nominal trade size, which would then be 1-1/2" so 2" is again illegal. (Note: the lavatory bowl is the only fixture in a house that is permitted a 1-1/4" line. Most plumbers now opt to use the code exception and install an 1-1/2" trap and line to preclude the necessity of maintaining a separate inventory of pipe and fittings for this limited use. In fact, installing the 1-1/2" trap and line have become so commonplace that most hardware stores and home supply centers no longer carry 1-1/4" pipe and fittings, although they do carry the 1-1/4" traps and trap adapters) Under your second picture you state that the 2" to the right is the drain line for you bathtub. If that is the case, then am I correct in assuming that the line on the upper right is connected to you lavatory? If that line is connected to the lavatory and if there is a vent line extending upwards from the lavatory location your vent is correct. The portion up to the lavatory tee connection would be a "Combined waste & Vent" and it may have a horizontal section. Now in regards to your fittings; If that riser on the left is going up to the lavatory then extending up to the roof for a vent you may install the 2x3x3 sanitary tee as you have it laid out. The Wye fitting for the tub drain should be a 3x1-1/2x3 Wye and the side opening MUST BE configured so that the side opening in on the side of the pipe. If you are under the IRC you could then have up to 6Â of 1-1/2" pipe from the Wye to the tub trap without requiring any additional venting, or you may opt to use the 2" that you have in which case the line could be up to 8Â from the Wye to the trap. (If your under the UPC a 1-1/2" line may extend 3Â6" or a 2" line may extend 5Â without any additional venting) The 1/4bend under your closet flange is correct and the water closet will not require any additional venting....See MoreGot my phone hooked up - So will be moving on over this weekend!
Comments (37)Have not read entire thread so forgive me if I am suggesting/asking stuff already covered. Not sure what area you are in but do you have good cell coverage? Could you do without a landline? Can you get internet thru satellite or cable? When I had small kids I would not give up landline in case of 911 emergencies. When they got to where I thought they could accurately report address I dropped landline and we all have cells as well as an emergency cell that is pay as you go. It is charged and sits in kitchen. Also a couple years ago our area allowed us to voluntarily register our cell numbers with our address. I have since made 911 calls and they asked are you calling from home and able to then connect us to our address. I know that I really like the savings! Best of luck in your new home. Again, if you have small kids the cheapest landline might be a good idea. Maybe this really isn't about what you are asking but just my thoughts....See Morebridget helm
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoBruce in Northern Virginia
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4 years agoJAN MOYER
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agobridget helm
4 years agoJAN MOYER
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