Sorry for the delay in responding; I was away till this morning. bmorepanic: Thank you for taking the time to rework the plan. The hot water rads never get too hot so we're ok that way. Silly I know... I admit that the reason I didn't want to go around the corner with cabinetry etc was to keep that end wall clear to have a place to display my artwork. We do need 2 chairs & table. Currently we have a 54" round table (pre this house purchase) with 2 chairs and it is a very tight fit with a utility cart too behind the north chair along the long wall. Definitely a tight fit. We've been living with it for 7 1/2 years so downsizing to a 28" square bistro style will feel positively spacious! I close the door when seated at the table, but have thought of putting in a pocket door instead. David: I hadn't thought of an island 3 different widths. I'll give it a try. laxsupermom: Due to placement of stairs to the basement & to upstairs attic/loft bedroom the DR door can't be moved over. The appliances have all been ordered. I went with the KA convection micro/oven combo for the features of having a dual oven without having to purchase a double. buehl: I don't mind at all the personal question. I realize I should have given more background. My DH & I are empty nesters (mid 50's). Our 2 children (1 grandchild - 2yrs) live at a distance and visits to here are about 4 times a year for a weekend duration. I have a non-functioning ankle (fusion or ankle replacement hopefully in my future). This causes issue with inability to bend correctly from the knee to reach down & lifting. A raised oven will be so much easier & safer. This injury also causes instability in balance, so having to move only a couple of steps when carrying anything hot like pasta water to dump in the sink is important. A place to sit to chop veggies etc is necessary from time to time. jejvtr: Good question about soundproofing, but not an issue. The music studio is only a couple of steps down from the kitchen level, cinderblock wall with the hallway in between and a door on each side. It is almost completely soundproof. lascatx: I mixed up my dates and the cabinet guy comes next Saturday. It's good the hear from someone who has lived with a similar setup. Even though I'm the only cook, there is at times 2 of us trying to do things in there at the same time. Thank you everyone. I will take all your suggestions & work on more layouts and see what revisions I can make that will make me happy. Jazzie

Thanks tri and david. The cans are from Lightolier and are not slope specific (Lightolier 1104ICX). I think it's the specific trim that would allow the light to be directed straight down (~34 degrees) from the 8/12 vaulted ceiling. But I'm not sure what options there are for LED or CFL bulbs with the trims for sloped ceilings. The are some adjustable recessed trims that can accomodate a 30 degree slope which might open up some options. I think pointing the lights straight down is what we want/need here. So I'm not sure of other/better options with the vaulted ceiling. One concern I have is the placement of the 6 cans 39 inches from the wall. I know this might produce shadows if you're standing at the counters, from the lights above and behind. But they will be up at 10.5 feet above the ground and I was thinking that these are for general lighting. If you're really working at the counters, you could use the undercabinet lighting to address any shadows. Is this a reasonable expectation? Thanks again for you help.

A couple of reason I was asking.....First, never stop designing at the exterior walls. Think of the site and house as one. That's why it's important to have a drawing that connects the house to the site. It gives the complete picture. And second, while I can see the motives for a rear loading garage, it not only makes for a "tacked on" look to that part of the house, it creates that poor master bedroom entry. And interestingly, the back wall of the garage (which faces the front) doesn't look all that great!! Not to mention that the form of the "garage wing" looks entirely different than the house. If a side load hides all the doors anyway, what the point then for a rear load?? And you get a much better geometry to work with in the master bedroom. Finally, I generally don't like to come into a house and be looking at a wall. If the sight line goes clear through the house it not only connect the house to the site better, it makes it seem BIGGER. I while back I threw in some examples into an idea book for some one else to illustrate what I'm talking about. Look at how all those houses are drawn with the floor plan on the site. You need to do the same thing. Also, look at how in all of those houses we're looking through the house from the front door to site features beyond. And coincidentially, look at the modern farmhouse example there. That garage is detached but the roof forms play off of the house, it not something totally different like your house is. If it helps look at this thread http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3285825/what-makes-a-house-have-good-design?n=39 and read my post there 23 post down. Pay attention to #9, 28,44,52,61 and 62. But good luck with your project. Exciting times for sure!!!

This seems to be another thread that fell through the cracks. Is your friend still seeking advice? What do you think about putting the DW on the left side of the sink? I know the fridge door couldn't be opened at the same time the DW is open, but how often would that happen? Then she could have a trash pull-out on the right side of the sink, and dishes could be stored in the larger drawers beside the fridge. The aisles look fine to me.