There is also information available in the National Parks Service Preservation Briefs about windows and many other aspects of preservation. I never discouraged anyone from changing their windows if there are no guidelines in their district for doing that. Actually I think lots of good information has been provided here by homeowners who are not working in the preservation business and speak from personal experience in either keeping or replacing windows. My frustration comes from people who buy homes in our historic district because they love the charm the guidelines have maintained and then decide they need to change protected aspects. No one has forced them to choose to live here. Appropriate energy efficient windows are not inexpensive. Anyone living here may choose to have those windows. Most requests here are for inappropriate windows and cost is the argument given. Shortsightedness at the time of purchase is not a justification here. We all "LIVE" in our homes and I would like to belie the insinuation that those of us who choose to maintain the architecture, including windows, are living in a "museum". That may be your perspective, but it is not my experience. Oberon works in the window industry. He provides lots of useful information and his opinion is valued. Many of us who choose to practice preservation are responding from personal experience and the outcomes we have had. In my neighborhood, there are guidelines for preservation and it has been proven to increase property values in this historic district. There are larger studies with similar quantified results. Most homes are under contract in less than two weeks. Therefore, it seems Oberon and I each have positve financial reinforcment for our opinions. I will not deny that my decisions also have an aesthetic factor. For those of you expressing concern for the environment I need you to know that by living in town and being able to walk to most destinations means I use less than one tank of gas a month. I also do not have air conditioning. I open my energy inefficient windows when it is warm. Imagine how much energy that would conserve if everyone did that. My point is moot for many because it is not realistic that the majority of people can, or are willing, to do that. I have noticed that brownouts and blackouts occur more during hot summer months than at any other time of the year. Is air conditioning and that comfort level also a drain on power? I don't have figures for how many less power plants the elimination of air conditining would result in. But, brownouts would seem to suggest use during hot weather does strain those resources. If we are truly concerned about energy consumption we should all get new windows and eliminate, or restict, air conditioning. There will always be some compromise. Comfort level is very individual. Windows are only one source of lead paint in older homes. I'm sure I'll be corrected, but the greatest issue with lead and windows is in the areas where there is any rubbing that could produce dust from the paint. Flaking paint on any surface should be a concern and abated or encapsulated especially if you have, or plan to have, children. If lead paint is the only concern with windows, the rub areas can be stripped and therefore eliminate the dust caused by the friction of opening and closing windows. Or, new tracks can be installed and the weight pockets can be insulated at the same time. Booksat makes a good point in taking into consideration many energy consumption aspects of older homes. Energy audits have been suggested a number of times on this forum. Windows are one aspect of loss and there are many ways to increase R-values in homes and windows. Window Guy is also in the window industry. He is sensitive to the window needs of historic districts and energy efficiency. I hope he will join this discussion to explain that you can maintain both aspects. Solutions may require compromise, but they should not be viewed at an either/or decision based on emotion. Also, energy conservation is multifaceted in older homes and in general consumption practices. If you are truly concerned about energy please look at all aspects of personal consumption. I agree that this is a sometimes emotional discussion. People on this forum will tend to lean toward conservation. Many would not have purchased older homes or participate on this forum if they did not like the qualities those homes possess. You will find lots of information about replacement windows on the Window Forum. Oberon an others involved in the window industry also offer their advice about new windows on that forum. We all have our passions.

From my experience with Harvey Industries I would not use any of their windows.

That type of replacement kit is OK, but there are potential drawbacks. Most replacement windows made today are in what I'll call a "retrofit" frame; in other words the new top & bottom sashes are in a frame that is made to go into your existing frame, so it is a frame-in-a-frame. The advantage of this is that even if your opening is out of square, the new frame can be installed square in the out of square opening. And it can even be slightly off in size and still be installed perfectly. My home, which was built in 1949, had one opening that is a whopping 1/2" out of square. The type of replacement that you're considering would have been horrible for that opening. Fortunately I put in a framed retrofit in that sash opening (I have both types in my house). So if all of your openings are perfectly square, and everything is measured exactly, they should go in quickly and easily and work fine. One other thought that comes to mind. The kit that you're considering works fine but generally is not as energy efficient "long-term" as the retro frame systems out there. Replacement kits like Lincoln's consist of new sashes and vinyl tracks that snap in to the existing sash opening. Those vinyl tracks have a squishy foam behind the tracks that deteriorates over time and loses some of its tension, causing the window to not be as air tight as it originally was. Consumers Report magazine rated windows a few years back; all of the foam-backed window systems rated from average to below average for air and water infiltration and only the non-foam backed windows did well. Bottom line - the Lincoln sash kit system and others like it, for me, is still acceptable, but it's not the best. By using it you will get a low maintenance better window than you presumably currently have, and for a bit $ more you could get a bit better long-term performer.

Good news! The window i ordered back in December arrived last week. Bad news....the window being replaced shattered overnight due to the extreme cold we are having (it was -22 degrees this AM, not including windchill). More bad news...i need to do my first aluminum siding window install in this weather :( But on the upside it's supposed to be 30 degrees above zero this weekend!! So bare with me, but i would like to do a full run through of my install to make sure i'm not forgetting anything process wise or materials wise. YOUR HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED HERE!! Measure the width and height of the new window (not including the flange). Measure the width of the PVC brickmold and multiply it by 2. Add the total of the brickmold plus 1/4" to each dimension from the window measurement. Cut through the aluminum siding with a circular saw to create an opening in the siding that equals the measurements from step 1. This should expose the flange from the old, originally installed window. Remove all the old pieces of the window (nails, nailing flange, etc.) Install adhesive backed flashing tape on bottom and sides of rough opening. Caulk edges of opening that the nail flange will cover and Insert window and nail in place. Cover the nail flange with adhesive backed flashing tape...bottom, then sides, then top. Back caulk and Install head flashing, cut to the width of the window. Nail in place and then cover with adhesive backed flashing tape. Cut and install J channel around aluminum siding edges. Cut and fit PVC brickmold. Back caulk it as well as caulk the edge that touches the window. Nail or screw brickmold in place. Caulk seam between j-channel and brickmold. Well i think that's it right? Did i miss anything, materials or processes?