@mudworm, I've never seen any numbers on what overhang soapstone can handle without support. Because it is softer than granite, I'd guess that it wouldn't handle as much - but there are different kinds of strengths so I could be wrong. Maybe you could put up a post with a title like "How much support for a soapstone overhang?" Something to get the folks who know soapstone better to comment. You wouldn't wand to do it without a subtop and have it crack - especially if it fell on someones foot. You might think of it as a sub-top rather than a rough top. You want a finished surface because it will be visible. It could be plywood with a 1/4 round molding along the edge painted to match the wall. Or wood veneer to match your cabinets. @natal - the raw granite for our island cost over $2000 - that's not counting the fab. Looking around on the web, piece of cherry veneer cabinet grade 3/4" plywood, 4 x 8 is less than $200. I'm sorry that I didn't think of it at the time. It's true that isn't a big deal to not have that touch, but it would have been worth the small additional cost to me.

My sink run is 14 ft long, I have an Ikea oak butcherblock countertop and we seamed it at the sink. They tell you not to do that, but so far ours has been fine (1 year and a couple months). My sink is a Kohler Vault, which has a wide flat rim at the back. The rim covers most of the wood seam and honestly the seam gets less water/wear there than it would if it were across the middle of my prep area. My countertop was put in by my cabinet installers, who had lots of experience with Ikea products (and did an excellent job overall) but were not trained carpenters; a decorative seam would have been more than they would have wanted to tackle and I doubt they would have had the tools to do it correctly. If your mom is hiring a carpenter to do the countertop, she may have different options. But for my kitchen I elected to keep it inexpensive and simple and put the seam under a topmounted sink. The installers screwed the countertop down tight at the sink (also something you aren't supposed to do but I haven't noticed any problems yet, and we do have humidity swings). The seam wasn't perfectly abutted so I filled it with matching wood filler and finished the whole top with many coats of Ikea's Behandla oil, which produces a hard film (I know because of the hard film it left on the wall :) -- it comes off with rubbing alcohol so no worries). You can see the seam at the front edge but it's not at all noticeable at the back. No problems at all with my topmount sink, by the way. Our old one was cast iron topmounted with silicone caulk, and the caulk had mildew spots (granted it had been there about 25 yrs). I am not sure what my plumber used for our sinks but he chose the sealer specifically because of the wood top, and he said it wouldn't mildew like the other one did. And it hasn't so far (so little is visible I'd probably never know anyway). Our second sink is the round topmounted stainless one from Ikea. No problems with it either. Not on topic but in case your mom asks: I like the looks and function of the Vault very much, would definitely recommend the low divide for anyone who likes double sinks as I do, but wouldn't choose a square-cornered sink again if I had another good option (I wanted a flat-rimmed stainless sink and the Vault was the only one with a low divide that I could find at the time). The round Ikea sink is much easier to clean inside. Here is a link that might be useful: Kohler Vault

Soapstone gets darker with age so even if they look contrasting in your samples, over time they will be similar but not quite the same (if you oil they will both appear dark). I liked my sample of Fantasia but it was more green than others. The Barrocca slabs I liked were a truer gray. In the end we went for stormy black because it is so much harder. I love the counters. It is almost a year now and no nicks or chips, just scratches that either dissappear or I don't notice them. I couldn't live with marble. Every day I juice lemons, grate tumeric and make a mess with the espresso machine. The etching I could handle perhaps but not staining. Soapstone is just perfect for me. we have grey cabinets and one of my do-over would be a White Island. I love 2 toned kitchens. Espresso will be too dark with SS counters, in my opinion.

The backing is cork so I am not surprised by a vapor barrier requirement. We are having it put down throughout our new home and will be glad to be 100% tile and grout free for the first time in our lives :) I have some old samples that I've tried to damage. It is very difficult to scratch or gouge, the only way I was able to pit it was to take a decent swing at it with a sharp tool that had some weight to it. Makes me wonder if we'll even want or need to fuss around with felt pads under everything (they seem to be magnets for dirt, hair, fur, or whatever floats around before you have a chance to sweep it up.)