Hi, I just think with the arched door it reads more old fashioned. Especially with the routed detail of the panels. I would think any panel number would be appropriate, just what ever number you like. When I think contemporary I think cleaner edges of the stiles and rails, without the rounded edges. I think there are examples of very clean doors on the link I provided. I like the first door for instance. There are also doors shown that I wouldn't think of as contemporary, but I am not a designer. You could post over in the decoration forum. Here is a link that might be useful: [houzz link contemporary interior doors.[(https://www.houzz.com/products/contemporary-interior-and-closet-doors-prbr1-br~t_696~s_2103)

Thanks, paintguy. I wish I could get that validation from the company or even from Masonite that makes a similar door. (Called them, too.) :( I mean, it's not a rocket-science question for the people who make the product, right? Your explanation that modern-day acrylics, especially good quality like Sherwin Williams, are more durable than older or cheaper products makes perfect sense. I've waited y-e-a-r-s to replace all my interior doors, and I really want satin finish. I don't want to have 12 passage/privacy & 6 sliders & bifolds "reflecting light" when the sun hits them because they're semi-glossed! Satin, IMO, on doors is way more classy. Semi-gloss on trim? Yes.

Thanks - I have seen the door style end panels on some of the kitchens here, but come to think of it, they've all been square. The arch is a little too busy. These are Merillat cabinets, they call the 3/16" oak veneer plywood a "wall end panel " (WEP) and the kind with the door on it a "wall decorative end panel" (WDEP). I'll go with the "skin" to make the ends flush, and have real lacquered wood (even though it's veneer) there instead of the fake wood-grain laminate. Now, wondering - I have a tall corner cabinet that I need about 6" on each side of. You really won't see it when the crown is applied on the lower cabinets flanking it. But it would help to make the sides flush just to install the crown on the taller cabinet. Is it worth ordering the WEPs longer than I need and cutting them down so I can do the sides of all 3 cabinets? 1/4" plywood would be too thick. Also need to do it to tops of refrigerator end panels - I'm not sure why those aren't flush, I don't want to do the whole 7ft, but do need a strip just to shim out the sides for the crown wrapping around. Cut them from 36" or 42" panels I order for 30" cabinets? Order one 30" to use as is and a 42" to cut another foot off to use for shims?

Somehow the threads stop at August 2 and then jump to June. Couldn't find this in search. okay, so a problem with the smooth doors looking too flat might be that they don't have seams where the joints should be. Someone has mentioned that this is what can make them look fake or cheap. I guess it's hard to get around that since they are. I see that the textured wood is given the appearance of a joint and change in direction. I do have an old set of smooth 18" narrow doubles from about 25 years ago that are perfectly smooth. They are only hand primed now and the brush marks are sloppy and very apparent so do give the illusion of joints. I'm looking at Jeld Wen. Masonite is also available around here. I'll contact them specifically but am wondering what your smooth doors look like since you prefer them to the textured version. I wish these things were easier to figure out! It seemed so simple yesterday. I don't think I know anyone with smooth interior core doors. Could this be why the textured version is so popular?