Insofar as how it would impact root health, there is no difference between plastic and high-fired clay/ceramic. If you can see no crazing (myriad small cracks reminiscent of a fish net with small holes) in the glaze, you can eliminate anything toxic making its way from the pot to the grow medium. If you haven't fertilized or used any type of tonics, insecticides, leaf shine, detergents, etc., it's a very good bet you have unwittingly over-watered due to the fact there is no way for water to evaporate or be used by the plant as the new medium is not colonized by roots and remains a hostile environment to roots due to lack of oxygen. My suggestion would be to lift the plant from the pot to see it the lower reaches of the soil column are saturated. If so, see figure D below. Remove the soil from the new pot, place an over-turned pot in the bottom of the pot so it fits snugly, and cover the drain hole of the over-turned pot with something that won't rot (it does not need to allow water to drain through the hole in the over-turned pot, but it's ok to use a screen if you wish). Mix enough of the soil that falls away from the roots or remains in the large pot with an equal measure of perlite and fill to the top of the over-turned pot, then reposition your plant on top of the pot. and back-fill with the remaining soil w/o the extra perlite. The shaded areas in the images above represents perched water. By comparing D to A, you can see the over-turned pot significantly reduces the amount of excess (perched) water your soil will b e able to hold, so air will return the the soil much faster. The operational words for the moisture level of a grow medium is damp/moist, never wet/soggy. After having put the pot to work as ballast, start checking moisture levels with a "tell" you can make from a wooden dowel rod. It is far superior to a finger or a "moisture meter". More about using a 'tell': Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Questions? Al

I will be installing an acrylic Hydro systems whirlpool (air's not enough for my muscles!) that is a delicious 19" deep, 42 wide and 73 long. After lying down in it at a local store, I found the slope of the back to be divine, and more suprisingly, the armrests to be vital with such a deep tub (I like to read in there). So it will clearly not even look like a cast iron tub. And I don't care!! Plus, a cast iron tub that size on a second story would cause me too much concern, particularly since the house was built with an acrylic whirlpool (pink-lovely). If the features that acrylic allows are important to you, don't be worried. The local store (Snyder Diamond) where I tried my tub (ordered on line) told me most people with very large upscale bathrooms such as ours are doing acrylic now, unless they want a traditional footed soaking tub look.

Ha, Stinky! My DH is..."slow to change". He does the exact same thing in the exact same order every morning and gets all out of sorts when he is forced to make accommodations. I've only been married 4 years, but I've learned it is much easier to change the environment than try to force change by direction. He just digs in his heels. Example: about 6 months ago I wanted to hire housekeeper. DH said it was unnecessary. I dropped the idea for a few months. I then started talking about how the dog got lonely during the day when we are at work and how nice it would be if someone would come keep her company. And now, we have a housekeeper who walks the dog..! I don't think I'm being sneaky or devious, but now we are both happy. Sometimes a different approach is needed. He may say the same things about me. But anyway, that's a long explanation of why simply telling DH that he is making a mess by wadding up the towels on the bars won't work. So having hooks may be my way around it. Back to topic, though, I was thinking of something like these from RH? Do they look like the towel would stay on well?

Beachem I would tell him what lyfia said. I just double-checked a painting estimate I have from reputable company that does a ton of work around here, I know they are not the cheapest. $7,000 to paint my main and lower levels, all trim and ceilings. My home is 2900 sq. ft. I live in an area that often gets overpriced as contractors assume by living here, people have a lot of money. I have had to do that in my own home remodel. We moved from out of state to a new area to a house needing major remodel. We got a recommended GC (my husband's boss used him extensively). I didn't get other pricing because he was highly recommended by my realtor and DH boss, and was told he was priced mid-range comparatively. We gave him our budget, and we started moving forward. After getting things priced for our downstairs, he said we won't have enough money to do anything else we want (and we have a large budget). Well I can't live in a half finished house! I did get other pricing, and had to tell him as much as I wanted to work with him, he was simply out of our budget. In fact, he was one of the highest priced of all. He also cost me on the few things he did start on. One, we wanted our children's rooms finished so they could have a room right away (carpet, trim painted, ceiling fan installed). Well looking back now he knew we were replacing all the windows, why did he let me get the trim painted? It's all ripped off sitting in a corner right now. Also, to help us 'save money' he put trim on and painted our cheap flat panel hollow core doors. Only as of this month did I see hollow core doors were only 30-$40. I think I actually paid more having him trim out and paint them all. Really gets me upset, I could've used the money spent to upgrade to solid doors. In the end we are going the route of GCing it ourselves, and using one contractor who works alone, but has a wide skill set, so he is doing many projects for us. I guess like a handyman, however he is very professional and knowledgable. I did vet him with seeing his previous work (bathrooms, floors, cabinetry) and calling references. It's not ideal because I really wish I had the advice of a true general contractor (the guy I have is able to advise in some areas but not all), but I've learned that either way you go you need to educate yourself on the nature of the work going on in your home.