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rubber roof repair torch-down type

14 years ago

I'm a handyman that typically doesn't deal with roofs (I usually say "you need a roofer", etc), but now I have to make an exception for a friend after dealing with too many dubious repairs and advice.

This is a 5 yr old leaking torch-down rubber roof on a one room addition, with only a slight pitch, and a leaky (minimal) HVAC vent penetration. This is after roofers have already done some patch repairs, and also tucked some flashing under the old roof/new roof overlap/step.

This week, the latest roofer to visit found the edge flashing is practically non-existent - wish somebody would have noticed that before. So some water is just getting under the edge, esp. near the gutter. I then inspected and found the flashing is what's usually found under the lip of a small shed roof, nothing more. Even better, I could pick up the rubber layer all around and see the sheathing, etc. It turns out that the felt and edging was minimally tacked down with a T-50 stapler, nothing more, and the roof just lays on top of the edge flashing with a 1" overlap. (This looks like a bs job.)

Anyway, the roofer says that flashing "can't really be added now", but I don't see why not since it's so easy to lift the rubber/felt sheet. I guess I'm going to do this myself, since we're at the point where I don't feel like learning the latest repair wasn't done right, and I don't think $1800 is necessary to redo a 5 yr old single room roof.

Does it sound like edge flashing can be effectively added on this roof, or am I missing something? I'm figuring on nailing it down first, then using roofing cement to glue down the edges. That about right? Thanks.

One more thing....can aluminum paint be applied on a rubber roof? This was done by the original builder, but the AC vent penetration patches were not yet coated with it.

Thanks much.

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Comments (4)

worthy
14 years ago
Without seeing it, this sounds like a misapplied mess that needs more than patching.

To begin with, when applying a torched membrane you first apply a glass fiber underlayment to prevent damage to the sheathing. Secondly, you use a torch! In that case, you can't just reach down and pick up the roofing later. And aluminum paint on a rubber roof! Why not just duct tape it, Red Green style!!

Like many aspects of construction, applying a roof is not brain surgery. Manufacturers provide clear directions that, unfortunately, some contractors can't be bothered to read.
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homebound
Original Author
14 years ago
No fiberglass under there that I can see. Looks like the rubber overlaps were torched, that's about it. Otherwise, it's glued (somehow) to a single layer of felt.

Ugh.

I might even try to redo this myself, except that there are two skylights that were installed directly onto the flat roof (no raised box, just right on a flat roof.) I'm sure they'll be the next thing to drip (just like a Frank Lloyd Wright job, eh?)
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worthy
14 years ago
Wind-driven water is probably entering the structure because the membrane isn't torched down.

So as long as this is a favour to a friend, not a guaranteed "fix", you might try applying strips of rubber --held down by a metal bar--over the edge and down on the fascia, as in the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rubber edge flashing
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homebound
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks worthy. Good info.
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