I dunno. If you have the patience to sew batts together then go for it, magothyrivergirl! ;> You won't have an expense or insecurity that way. As I've said, I just put the smaller parts aside for smaller projects. The 2 shops where I encountered it, they said they have actually used it and been very happy with it. Of course, I don't think this has been available for long so I guess they couldn't fairly say how it behaves over the long haul. Probably best to heavily quilt over any area that has two pieces of batting whatever method or material gets used to join them. Maybe I'll join two pieces and do a little 18" square wholecloth thingie that I could wash a couple times and report. I'd have to drape it over something small and tall like a drinking glass or a vase or something. But at least it would be better than experimenting with a pieced quilt top.

if you want to blend the bias tape together; you cut them on the bias and then sew a diagonal seam as if you were making bias tape and it will not be noticeable. I also make a lot of bibs, bias tape on terry towels and I use snap tape for closure. Next time I make a batch, I will use homemade bias tape and do it french binding style because i hope it will last longer than my present method. The binding is going but the terry is still good.

itsmce, hi from dry, sometimes (very) windy southern California! :) I plant my carrot mats by taking about 1/4" of soil off the area I'm going to plant them, lay the mats in, immediately sprinkle some water on the napkin/tp to hold it in place from the wind, and then put the 1/4" of soil I removed back over, water it again to moisten everything in place. I then place a piece of scrap plywood over the area I planted (sometimes I'll put the wood up on rock "legs" just to keep it from being directly on any potential seedlings). Keeps the carrots moist even without daily watering - usually I'll water them every other day when it's super hot/dry. Remove the scrap wood once they start sprouting. Works a charm.

I like the sound of those vents you bought. Where did you get those ? I’ve posted some pictures of my vents. One opens in which happens when the exhaust fan turns on. Pro - opens automatically when it is hot and the fan is on. Con - opens automatically when the wind blows so I have to barricade it shut during the cold weather. Solution - mechanical vent opener which is next. The one that opens out WAS supposed to open automatically as the temp got hotter with one of those openers with wax in them Although they work great for their intended purpose. It is challenging to get them to operate the way I need it to. I have installed pullies trying to get them to open properly but didn’t have time to finish that project so they stay closed until the warm weather then I prop them open. Work in progress but that’s the fun of it, right ???? The fan I bought moves some air. The switch shown in the pictures works flawlessly. I set mine to turn on at 120 and off at 100. As you can imagine - it is on a lot during the hot days. It draws in the air through the vents but if the air is hot to begin with then it makes it tougher. Some day ....... I’m going to put in waterproof worktops and then install some sort of misting system. Evaporative cooling (swamp coolers) are effective for their specified purpose. I insulted the roof, North wall and the east side with bubble wrap. I have a 30,000 BTU kerosene heater (am upgrading to Natural gas someday). I have 10 (50 gallon) drums filled with water and painted black. Those are for my latent heat. They absorb the heat from the sun and heater and then dissipate it back to the GH when the sun goes down. Hot goes to cold. Some think they don’t work but they work for me and they were free. Even in the Winter - if they freeze it is still fine because water generates BTU’s when it changes state from ice to water. You mention the roof vents. They are hard to get to. The only way I can think of is to remove the one next to it to gain access. That will be hard for me because they are siliconed in place, have double clips and a screw in the center. Yes, I did get carried away when I built my GH. I made a complete unistrut structure and then built the GH around it. It has held up tp 60 wind gusts without losing one panel. The frame can’t go anywhere because it is up against the unistrut. It was a lot of work but it was worth it. A friend of mine put his up and it blew down after just two weeks. I did plant through rough last Winter but just some cold veggies like Spinach and lettuce. Once it was too hot for the exhaust fan to cope - 140 + in the GH then I only planted watermelon in there. I may try something else this year during the hot summer.