OT, but in the circumstances you describe, I'd suggest to the condo board that their crappy venting was presenting a health risk, and opening them to massive liability. If they fix the vents NOW, they may avoid having to gut the entire building to address mold issues. If that didn't have the desired effect, I'd design a room that could accomodate an electric de-humidifier. It will be tough in a room that small, but completely worth it. Until you have healthy air, the design of the bath is a bandaid on a tumor.

Wow!!! I'm so impressed with all of these ideas - keep them coming! I think each would work, but would make for a very different look - high contrast, traditional, MCM, etc. I shared all of these ideas with my husband and I think we're both leaning towards subway tiles in the shower - either light gray or white - and probably oversized as Nancy in Mich suggested. Each hex pattern is about 6 inches in diameter so they're quite large and we agree a larger subway would balance it out. Any ideas for grout color if we go with white subway? A light gray grout? My husband loves the idea of accenting the shower tile with black or graphite-colored trim and bullnose pieces to tie in the dark accents in the floor tile, so we'll likely do that, as well. Pricklypearcactus, we definitely want frameless glass for the shower but still waiting on our quote... scared to open that email. :) And I think brushed nickel is the winner in the fixture department, though I may throw in a little gold by way of accessories to warm things up a bit. We're still trying to decide between a few things: - Pickled wood, white or dark gray painted vanity and either floating or shaker-style - Solid white or marble-type (quartzite?) countertop - Light gray or gray-blue on the walls, but I think this depends on the other finishes. And jrueter - thanks so much for including photos. That really helped us visualize how the gray subway would look. We'd never even considered anything other than white! Williamsem - I'll be sure to post pictures of the finished product, but you'll have to be patient with us. We're buying everything now, but not installing until after Christmas. :) Thanks again all! And please do chime in with any other ideas/suggestions - you've been SO helpful!

Did you skip putting hardibacker (or similar) on the wood subfloor before you added the radiant heat mat and tile? If you did, that's probably what caused the damage. My heart sinks for your pain. I wouldn't wish that kind of rework on anyone. But if your tiles are moving, they likely aren't attached to the mat any more. So if you cut the grout, they should come up without pulling the wires with them. If there are still some attachment points, I'd think you could chisel them off from between the tile & mat and possibly preserve the wiring. We used Warming Systems under our tile because it was half the cost of the mats and just a little more work--you tape the wire to the floor. If you can't salvage your SunTouch mats (pulling them up so you can put in Hardibacker may be more destructive than removing the tile), it might be a cheaper replacement alternative. Best of luck. I'd be interested in how it works out for you.

First, I am a DIYer so take this advice for what it is worth. 1- if you do succeed in removing all those tiles and reapply them to that greenboard, in a couple of years they will all fall off again anyway. I had that in a condo we were renting in the city a few years ago and as soon as the smallest bit of water gets through your grout (and it will) that board will rot away quickly, the tiles will pop off one by one, and the entire project will need to be done again. 2- if you call in a professional now, they will not apply to that greenboard either (not if they are reputable anyway) and will charge you for ripping it out and installing cement board. Even if some DIY people would apply tile to green board, the green board has now been compromised by you removing the tile. Green board is only coated drywall. The green coating is a waxy coating that is supposed to keep it water resistant. If you look at it, do you think it is going to be water resistant now? If I were you I would cut or score around where the tile currently is and was and remove the green board and tile. I would go buy cement board and screw it to the studs. It goes up just as easy as drywall, you patch it like drywall, and then you have a nice EVEN (your tile is not going to lay nice on that current surface), clean surface that is waterproof to go ahead and install your new tile on. And you are not going to have to worry about having to re-do it in a few years. I promise the extra time spent will be well worth it down the road. It is up to you whether or not you want to call someone in or not. You should know that it will be more than the professional simply laying tile though, he will be charging you for re-doing the backing also. Best of luck, Kalindi