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preparing for orange peel

15 years ago

We are getting ready to apply orange peel to some new walls as a result of a remodel, and will reapply orange peel texture to another affected wall. The rest of the house has orange peel texture, so thats what we are doing to match with the new space.

My question is how good does my prep need to be? How fine does my prepped wall need to be? Do I need to sand out every visible knife mark or will it get lost in the orange peel?

On the one wall that we are re-texturing, there is only about 50 sf of wall space, because it is dominated by a 8ft span of French doors. I thinned drywall compound down to a looe pudding consistency and used a 8" drywall knife to apply it. The mud that goes on pink and dries white was perfect for this - you can see exactly where it is going. Then there are three new walls that have bee taped and mudded as normal preparation.

I don't mind doing the wet work - I think of it as frosting a cake. I'm getting better at it, thanks to what I've been reading here. But I am SO tired of sanding and dust.

So how do I know when I'm ready to go with texture? Is it when I say "no mas -I'm DONE sanding - texture NOW"? ;-p

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Comments (3)

sierraeast
15 years ago
You want to feather sand any ridges,bumps, and fill low spots. Texture shouldn't be considered as a fix to hide tape joint finishing, but rather considered cosmetic. It's true you dont have to have a level 4 or 5 finish before texturing, but it still should be flat and smooth with fastener dimples flat as well. The orange peel i do is off of a hopper/spray gun with a compressor. The pros generally have a spray rig on wheels. In any event, the surface should be decently flat and smooth to get a nice looking texture job. Here's a link to a site that a pro drywaller on this forum recommends. There are others if you google drywall finishing.

Here is a link that might be useful: finishing drywall
ttfweb
15 years ago
I would work on it until it was smooth. As posted above, texture will not hid bumps, ridges, etc. It does great at getting rid of surface imperfections, pits, etc.

I just fully sanded and textured 1/2 our basement - 1000 sf area, it took me about 6 hours of sanding an flling - and it was worth it.

Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://greengateranchremodel.blogspot.com/
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Hey Dave! Long time no talk! It sounds like your corner bead was pulling away at a corner? That happens when the drywaller works too quickly and doesn’t properly mud the corner when putting it in, it also happens as homes settle over time because the wood behind the walls shrink or expand from changes in moisture and temperature and with even a mediocre tape job by the drywaller the cracks appear. A painter isn’t usually my first choice in repairing this since it’s not their specialty and they don’t have the tools to do it quickly and efficiently. There’s a few ways to fix it with the most extreme being remove the corner bead and add a new one. The easiest is like you said add some nails, mud and sand then texture as needed. Good luck!
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abejadulce_z9b
Original Author
15 years ago
surface imperfections are what I want to hide. The drywall has been properly taped and mudded and the transitions over the joint tape and corners have been feathered in to the limits of my capability.

The areas I primed in the kitchen where the back splash will be installed actually look pretty good. If I wanted to, I'm confident that I could fill the dings revealed by the primer, sand again and finish with paint.

I wish that my house wasn't finished with orange peel, I'd love to have them smooth, but the walls exterior to the kitchen need to be similar to the rest of the house. I'm even happy with how my skim coat came out on the wall adjacent to the kitchen, but I can't do that to the whole house.

We will also use the hopper with a compressor to apply the texture. The ceiling texture came out pretty nice.

Thanks for your input.

B

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