To the original writer, I am doing the exact same thing! I had a over range microwave with pathetic fan so I removed it and the cabinet as well. I'm gong to build a faux hood, but because I can't find the right fan to install into the hood, I thought maybe I could use a bathroom fan and duct it out side of my house. Any one think that wouldn't work? The hood will be mad if cedar to match the beams I installed and will go up to ceiling, but will vent out wall... Easier. My issue is that I decided, that while it's blank, before I put in back splash, that I've always wanted a pot filler.. My question, how hard is it, and with minimal drywall removal, would it be to run plumbing? I already have water line cause it runs to fridge. Any advise would be great!!! Video even better!

Unless the builder screwed up, this would be very cost prohibitive at this point as others have alluded to. I like the idea of using window treatments to correct the lines visually at this point from the interior, not sure how this all lays out on the exterior and if anything is needed there. Be careful about the tempered glass thing as well, that will vary by location, your situation doesn't require it everywhere. Ultimately your builder is on the hook for making sure that this is code compliant.

I much prefer hardwood, but in an apartment, you might want to check if a hard floor will have your neighbors complaining that they can hear every step you take. A good wood floor guy should be able to do a very good match.

I wouldn't call a kitchen a high water area. do you wash your dishes on the floor?? a splatter of water, a dropped pot, bowl, whatever, isn't going to hurt wood. They've had solid wood floors in kitchen since the 20's and they're still going. I just did hardwood in my kitchen when I redid it and I'm so glad. it's so easy to clean. and I"ve dropped quite a bit of water w/o an issue. (Water isn't going to hurt these floors unless you let it sit on top of them for days) Look at all the new kitchens being done. Continuous flooring in wood is constantly being done. if it was such an issue, you wouldn't see it. I wouldn't put LVP next to real wood. tearing out real wood to put in LVP is a downgrade. what you do is call in a flooring specialist that can lace in the same wood species to what you already have. then your old stuff is sanded down to raw, and both are finished and stained. they would also match the height so that you wouldn't need a transition strip. yours will be super simple because of the direction it's going. normally it's laced in like this new w/the stained old. but yours is going in the other direction so all they need to do is place it side by side, sand down the old and get a new stain RedOak #2 wood stained in Bona,,,1/2 neutral, 1/4 gray, and 1/4 jacobean. if you don't want it this dark, just do 1/2 neutral and 1/2 provencial. or, keep it natural and do the Nordic seal. this is red oak. I'd see about doing a herringbone layout w/the same wood species in the kitchen. Something like this would let you get away w/using a wood flooring that isn't exact to what you have now. if you can't find the exact width, for example, using this design would still look fine because it would be the same spieces and stain color, but a diff pattern. and since your current flooring is going in one direction, coming in like this w/the new wood would be a perfect switch they did something similar w/this flooring. It's a busy speices of wood, so trying an exact match w/lacing would be much more difficult than your floors. Call in a wood flooring specialist and see what he says. Make sure they can use the exact same wood species that is already there. ask what the process is for refinishing. If you feel like you still want tile, do a large format porcelain, or a large hex, or maybe even go for a herringbone in a black slate tile. just to show you what tile to wood looks like You'll want to use the same height so you won't have a transition strip that's lower/higher than the wood. this is a beautiful transition from wood to tile using a metal edge (Schluter Jolly) I love something like this. to me it integrates both floors so it doesn't look so choppy. it can be done w/a variety of materials or colors Here's one w/a transition from wood to a black slate or porcelain in a large hex tile. do you like this? Or maybe a patterned tile?