brenjun: my pantry is 42 inches wide and holds soooo much food. Being that wide, the doors are large, but we love it. My cabinet maker insisted that I use the blum metal drawers (as opposed to wood) because they are stronger for such a wide rollout. He also used heavy duty slides. We use one of the wide drawers for pots and pans (the range is just across the aisle from the pantry) and the bottom drawer for bagged food (chips, bagged pastas, etc). And I think Johnny makes excellent points about rollout shelves vs a pullout pantry. I think the pullout style pantry is only practical for a fairly narrow pantry, although I've never used this type of pantry. Both styles have their pros and cons. chihauhuagirl: The note pad is from mayfair lane and they have this foam back that 'sticks' to stainless without any adhesive, so there's no residue. You just press it on. If it loses it's stick, you just wipe it down with a a little water, and it sticks again. They work great for us. The website was sold recently, and I have not ordered after the sale. I've linked it below, and I have no affiliation with it other than liking the list pads. Here is a link that might be useful: note pads that stick to stainless

Hi, sorry I've been MIA again for awhile. Looks like you've got some great answers already. I'll try to fill in my answers as well - please forgive me Steph (and others) if I duplicate what you've said. I found the old 2009 IKEA Kitchen printed catalog, and am trying to figure what it is they mean about the things included. For the HIGH CABINETS, it says, " Prices includes frame, doors, hinges, drawers, legs, wire baskets, pull out cleaning storage and shelves where shown. Drawer and door dampers are included in all combinations except for the ARLIG series. The RATIONELL drawer and door dampers are sold separately. Toekicks and knobs/handles sold separately...." So. What sort of drawer and door dampers are included? And would it be a better idea to get the Rationell drawer and door dampers? It does not mention "full extension drawers" at all. Would that be what the Rationell drawer and door fittings do? Or are the drawers full extension anyway? No mention of needing to purchase DRAWER FRONTS for the roll out drawers behind the hinged Stat doors. Will I need to order those too? The door and drawer dampers that are included (make sure you order them - soft close dampers aren't automatically included) work exactly the same as the BLUM ones. IKEA calls them Rationell. I'm not sure why. I did read on some site somewhere (sorry, don't remember where) that they are not identical. When you order the pantry, all of the necessary hardware should come with it. Make sure you specify that you want the dampers - they don't necessarily come with, if you don't specify them. And, the doors come with the configuration I'm looking at, and I still wonder if I can order a side panel in the same look, which is the STAT in white? And will it be a single tall panel or do I get it as the doors, a high door and a short door above that which I attach as the side panel? I would suggest calling them to get the definitive answer to that exact question. We did not order sides as we are doing plain white and the sides of the cabs themselves are exactly that. We also went in person, it may be different when you order over the phone. I don't want to order the door pulls, I have a style I'm getting locally. It says LEGS are included "where shown" but nothing has a set of legs included in the drawing. No big deal, but I sure cannot put it together if I don't start with the base. My ceilings are 98 inches, and the cabinet is 88 inches, I think w/o the legs. So laying it on its side to attach legs after it's put together does not seem like an option to me. All of the base cabinets need legs. The pantry box would sit evenly with other base cabs, so it would need the same legs. They are kinda cheap plastic thingys - but very easy to adjust if your floor isn't exactly perfectly even. My order will be for the HDW2488 Stat white, which is 24w x 24d x 88h....... Double check the height - it looks like they offer a couple of diff height cabinets. It wouldn't be fun if you ended up getting the wrong one. And while I'm at it, I decided to have them ship the BDI18 which is a base cab 24d x 18w x 30h w/ pull out ironing board, with visible legs, also in the Stat door. Guess I'll need a Stat side panel for that also, unless I change it to the Rubrik stainless steel option. I am like a swimmer standing on the diving board, bouncing up/down/up/down. I don't know what else I'll need to order. How about the brackets to attach the tall cabinets and the base cabinets to the wall? Are those a separate purchase with Ikea? Just how helpful will the folks be when I place my order by phone? The brackets are separate - but when they help you put together your order, they should include all of that kind of stuff. For instance, even though we have 3 cabinet runs, we only got one bracket - my DH just cut it into the appropriate lengths. Maybe they'll send me a 2010 Kitchen catalog if I order some stuff. Did you try the link I posted above to order a catalogue online? It looked like a pretty simply process. :o) I await your advice on this latest flurry of questions. Thank all you who are talking me through this. ***** next post***** But what you are telling me, Prairie, is that you moved the garbage UP and probably cut the front door so that when you pulled out the top to wipe your trimmings/trash into the can, one single drawer was beneath it and was not opened. You could pull it out as separate drawer with a different drawer front or was it the other portion of the cabinet door? How did you arrange the door of the cabinet so it was normal looking? Do you have a photo you could upload of that? Then I would know what you mean. Nothing like a good photo to give me an AHA! moment. We are making our own drawers which means we can put the drawers wherever we want. We are not limited to the sizes of drawer faces that IKEA provides. The pics that Steph posted are great. Ikea comes with the large door that covers all three 'drawers'. All IKEA drawers are identical (in two sizes). The ones that are meant as pull-outs behind a door come with little drawer fronts. pull out drawer front If you look closely at this page, you can see the two smaller drawers come with the fronts - the taller one (with rails on the sides) would attach to the pull out door front. 5 piece 12 inch pull out I don't have my camera at the moment - my DH took it to work, but I'll try to post some pics of the garbage cabinet configuration later. Please let me know if I've missed any questions. :) ~ Missy

Enduring: the game room is actually the original house dating to 1790. The part with the kitchen is the addition :). Game room is about 12 x 14 with only one 6 foot segment of uninterrupted wall. 100 years ago, it was the dining room and our current dining room was the 'front' parlor, but we dont' really feel a need for a front parlor these days. Palimpsest: Good idea to check out old design books. Haven't been to the local library lately, but would be good to see some things that aren't just today's style since I don't want to get too stuck there anyway. The contractor I plan to use seems to have a tendancy to make things a bit more finished than suits my taste (why would I need trim around a wall oven--oh yeah, that's how they make money :) ), so I need to prepare myself to push back and allow the space to be a little funky. Aliris: I was playing around with that pennisula idea too after Rosie suggested one coming out from the other wall. It actually works pretty nicely as it doesn't obstruct the main traffic route for guests from dining/living to guest bath and doesn't obstruct the windows. It does result in a lot less counter space and storage however than island plan and I really want that counter space! Chris 11895: Yes, I've had the home depot kitchen designer and three different contractors (2 only do kitchens) on site. You guys have come up with everything they did and a good bit more. Thanks! Thanks to everyone for all the ideas. I'm really glad I listened to that gut feeling that something wasn't quite right and asked for help. Without the push, I never would have mocked up that chimney and discovered what a bad idea it was. Nor would it have occured to me that I could move the counter just far enough off the window wall to allow for light and cleaning rather than making it a tight passageway. I'll need to figure out what goes back there (shelves? table?), but that's something I can play around with once the counters are in. So, I think at this point I'm very happy with that idea. It leaves me with a comfortable width galley, lots of counter space, and I get to keep my kitchen table and radiator, which are my favorite parts of the kitchen as it is now. I know some of you despair at putting anything even partially in front of the windows, but believe me, when they are through the whole house you realize that the other option is having no furniture! We have a couch set up like this in the living room: sofa table behind it between the two windows and then sofa is a couple feet out from the window wall. It still leaves the light and windows visable, but makes the room functional. I have an appointment to order cabinets next week, so I'm going to move on to the next set of decisions. I'm sure some of those will lead to a few more questions! And yes, pictures will be forthcoming in a few months.

Our range is Jenn-Air. I love it. Our 100+ yr old house was newly renovated when we bought it 7 years ago and the stainless jenn-air range came with it. We are renovating now to update the finishes to something more to our taste but not changing the appliances. No need to! I think we are going to do each pullout by category so it should be easy to find every thing. One for spices, one for dry goods, one for baking, one for liquids (oils, vinegar etc) one for Asian ingredient. The the upper shelves will be other... We use almost no canned goods and are only 2 people so it might be a little easier for us.