Protecting particleboard counter edges
shipshape
14 years ago
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14 years agoshipshape
14 years agoRelated Discussions
How to finish unfinished edge of laminate countertop?
Comments (2)I don't know how handy you are or what the current status of your countertop is, but it does sound like you're thinking about installing a Formica countertop and would like something nice to edge it. It that is the way of it, the solution is really rather simple. I won't tell you about the steps for installing the Formica itself, as I will assume that you already have that knowledge, except to say that it is really not as difficult as it seems to be from the outside looking in. It is one of the easier things I have learned in woodworking, to be honest about it. The way to get a nice edge treatment is to apply it to the countertop substrate before you glue down the Formica. I would choose a wood that matched my cabinets. If you have, say, ¾" particleboard for a substrate, you simply glue the wood of your choice to the outside edges of your substrate. Typically, that wood should be 1½" wide, thereby giving the illusion of a countertop that thick. You can miter the corners, but I have found that what works better and easier is to use wood that is 1" thick, as opposed to the usual ¾". You can then simply use butt joints for the edges of your wood trim. I do it in such a way that the joint is NOT on the side that will face out when the counter is installed. Make your joints on the sides. Next, I would make a template that has a 1" radius for a corner and put rounded corners on all of the corners that will face out. Obviously, where it butts to the wall, you want it to stay as straight corners. The easier way to round those corners, once you have the template, is to clamp the template in place, use a hand saw to cut across the corner to remove most of the waste, then finish up with a straight trim bit in a router. At this point you can install your Formica. Once you have finished installing the Formica, you can then put a nice profile on the countertop, making sure to cut through the Formica just a little. What works particularly well in that regard is to use a roundover bit and cut it deeply enough that it creates a shoulder. The Formica is then on a "shelf," so to speak, just above where the round starts for the profile on the edge. The other bit I like for this purpose is a simple 60º bevel bit. On this one, you simply cut through until you are happy with the resulting profile. After that, you would finish the wood the same as you would the wood in your cabinets. It is really not that difficult to do, and as I say, it makes a truly dramatic edge treatment for a Formica countertop. It makes it look like the countertop is solid whatever wood you choose for your edging, and it finishes the edge wonderfully. Here is a link that might be useful: Cabinet & Furniture Trends & Information...See MoreSoapstone counter edge screw-up
Comments (7)I think the most worrisome issue here would be adequately protecting the rest of your kitchen, including all the new drawer glides, floor, etc, from the stone grinding dust. It's an awfully messy process and you'll want to make sure that everything is well sealed beforehand. I don't have first-hand experience, but have read of others here requiring new drawer glide hardware after stone has been refinished on site without careful protection. It's dreadful gritty awful stuff that goes everywhere. But in terms of "should you have them do it?", I'm with cheri127: try it and see how you like it. I wouldn't personally miss 1/8" of counter overhang at all, but only you can know what you're willing to live with. Sorry about the fabricator's screwup, and best of luck!...See MoreBeware of explosive cracks with Dupont Corian counter tops. (No heat!)
Comments (118)We have had almost the exact same issue with our corian. The builder wouldn't even come to check it only went by the pictures we sent. Then blamed it all on something "very hot" had to do that! I can tell you now, it did not. There is also a large dip or warp over the dishwasher. When we pulled it out there is absolutely no heat barrier or insulation to protect the corian. The installer also never sealed the sink basin. Which we found out the hard way when our sink overflowed. The installer/builder takes no blame Won't even come to look or tell us what we can do. There is a ten year warranty on the corian, we've been fighting this for over two years now. The ten year warranty will be up in September of this year. What can we do???...See MoreCounter top company threatening to take a lien on my house
Comments (31)e overhang variance is across an approximately 7 foot run of edging and varies by 3/4". The left most overhang is 1 1/4 inch and the right most is 2 inches. Is the counter itself of equal depth (front to back) along the entire 7' run? Does the company cut tops using a bridge saw or a CNC water jet? When the old counter top was removed, did you notice if all of the cabinets were flush with the back wall, assuming these are factory cabinets (i.e., boxes) and not built in place cabinets? If the base cabinets are factory built boxes and were shimmed so the cabinet fronts would line up flush to one another...with the thickest shimming on the left end, then that explains why the overhang varies. The alternative would have been to install the counter equidistant from the front of the cabinet along the run and have a gap between the back edge of the countertop and the wall. Those would have been your two choices since you were replacing counters on existing cabinets. Possibly you could have added 1/2" backerboard and tile to cover the 3/4" gap---if the added thickness wouldn't interfere with installation & operation of any faucets. OR, the entire run of cabinets, top and bottom could have been removed, the drywall removed from the wall, and a painstaking job of shimming/ shaving the studs to make the wall flat, plumb & square and then replacing the drywall. None of the above is the responsibility of the counter people. They are not in the business of rebuilding walls. we had originally picked out a flat, eased edge and ended up with a quarter round top/bottom edge. When we asked what happened, the company told us that they thought we would want the rounded edge instead as it will "last longer" and "be more durable". On this score, yes, the rounded edge will be less prone to chipping. The edge that you chose is generally considered to be the edge treatment most prone to chipping....See MoreUser
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