aricomamma- We don't oil our soapstone; we like the light color. It is a softer variety. That said, and this is for marcolo as well, I decided to do his test with a sample we have of our variety. I had oiled it a month or so ago because I was having a dinner party and wanted to inservice people about soapstone. So after seeing the photo of your testing above, marcolo, I dropped a metal measuring cup from six inches above (DH wanted to know what size cup you used), and then ran a fork over it. I also did it on the back (unoiled). There are definite dings from the cup and the fork scratched it. I know my variety is soft. But oiling took care of it (mostly). So, for what it's worth: semi-oiled sample, dings marks on lower right and tine mark apparent: back of sample, unoiled; ding almost dierctly below black splotch and tine mark at about 5:00 from black splotch: re-oiled same as first: I should also add that ours came from the slab yard highly polished-about 600-800 grit. It is not at all shiny, but from reading some things that Florida Joshua has said I think that may contribute to some of our scratches.

How wide is your overhang and how far back can you stand to look at the cabinets? You may or may not see the plywood. If it shows, moulding to match the cabinet may be the solution. The plywood top on our cabinets is hidden by the front frame of the cabinet. I wouldn't recommend putting a detailed edge on soapstone, because it is a vulnerable spot and when a detail becomes chipped it will be more difficult to disguise than damage to a slightly eased edge. I have not heard of it being done, but if you really feel that you need it, perhaps your counter fabricator could add a strip of soapstone to the lower front edge, in the same manner as when they do a bullnose. To my eye, this would make the soapstone look way too thick, but you may like it.

My architect/designer sez these days Granite prices lower than nearly all the other solid surfaces and contributes to its popularity espec if u r not looking for esoteric colors. Marble, which i have alot of in our offices for multiple conf and other tables, even in a dark shade, is "delicate" in the sense that it is brittle and can crack etc, and in a lite color maintenance is brutal b/c it will stain (not an issue with, say, a dark wine color marble like we have but it does crack). I have seen some Granite Tiles used where costs need trimming and when done in larger tiles, and done well and creatively, the look is acceptable and grout lines minimal. So you may be able to compromise in one area this way...it is the long lengths of granite that set you back. Soapstone is a joy b/c of the touch, and if you like it oiled up black, stains not an issue. Natural colors of soapstone are lovely but we have only used that in dining area cabinet tops in bar-like areas...and natural is not good for kitchen. (It also is great in bathrooms, even flooring b/c it isnt slippery). But soapstone is a more old-fashioned/colonial like look...not slick and modern My favorite for counters is Stainless Steel!!! installed in 1993 i still love it. But i would then warm up the look by having the island be done in something else. Also St.Steel with dark wood cabs really look warm and approachable.

Here are a some pics and my dilemma. Keep in mind this is my old fridge...new one comes today! Here is how we ended up with this: I have never had an enclosed fridge so didn't think about the peninsula dying into panels or how deep panels were going to be. I "semi" designed the new footprint and took it to Lowe's where the KD took over. (yes---I know......) Bought Schuler plywood with maple fronts cabinets. Although the kitchen designer had the model number of the fridge we were buying, which is a full-size, she designed the kitchen with 24" deep panels. She knew I was trying to have the look of an enclosed fridge. Being that I've never had an enclosed fridge, it was something I just didn't think of until the install started. Evidently she put a counter-depth in the design program because the elevation sketches she gave me showed an enclosed fridge. "Luckily" the panels actually came in wrong and were cut at only 23" for some strange reason and the installer caught it right away when looking over everything. Otherwise he probably would have installed them and I would be stuck. So called Lowe's to reorder the panels and somehow in all this it suddenly dawned on me that a full size fridge was going to be deeper and require deeper panels. I thought "no problem! Yay I can order them at 30!" By this time the KD had quit her job due to the pandemic. The other KD didn't know what was going on so we called in the Schuler rep. She was the one who immediately told me that those 30" panels would be sticking out in front of the peninsula. She asked if we could move the peninsula forward since the other side is an overhang for seating, but we couldn't since it would bottleneck the entrance into the kitchen down to under 36" and getting rid of an existing bottleneck was one of the reasons for the re-design to start with. So we had a dilemma. We cannot go down to a counter depth fridge which was the other option. What I decided was to split the difference and order 27" refrigerator panels. The fridge without doors is 29.5" so I will have about 3" of the side of the fridge sticking out which I don't like, but while I want my kitchen to look beautiful, I value the functionality too. The old fridge that you see in the pic sticks out a total of 32" The new fridge will stick out 34 with doors but without handles (4.5" of that is doors that would stick out anyway) Here's the really complicated part....we will be installing decorative panels on the end of the fridge as we have them on all the cabinets. This is how you enter the kitchen and I don't want that big blank space there next to the peninsula. The panels should be installed with just 1/4" reveal. I posted a photo below of how the panels look that are already installed on the side of the pantry that adjoins to a 17" high window seat. Luckily those face the opposite way from the fridge panels so you will never see both at the same time. I also posted photos of us holding up panels on the side of the fridge (they are NOT the right size panels...we have to order those still---we just used these to look at the right edge as to how wide to make the panels.) Also keep in mind we can remove the quartz backsplash piece if that would look better. That was not originally planned...the panels were going to sit directly on top of the countertop. So do we order the panels with just the 1/4" reveal to match the panels in the rest of the kitchen? Or, as the Schuler rep recommended, order the panels so they are the same width with the countertop, leaving about 1 3/4" reveal on the right side, but then your eye follows the countertop all the way up. I asked the countertop templater guy if I should just lengthen the overhang on the kitchen side of the peninsula to 2.5" to bring it out to within 1/4" of the fridge panel but he said no....I'm now thinking I should have insisted on it. Especially since we have full overlay cabinets that already make the overlay look very small since the 1.5" planned overhang is measured from the box, not the front of the drawers. Note how small the overhang looks to the drawers. And then of course, they had templated for a 1.5" overhang and I only got 1.25" UGH! Every quarter inch there would have made the reveal on the side of the fridge less. Suggestions appreciated! I'm hoping that I will eventually make peace in my mind with this issue and won't notice it but it is driving me crazy right now. I think of all the things that screwed up just because of this one error by the KD that I didn't catch and I am beating myself up for it!