Thanks for all the responses of support! I took about 30 pictures but made a mistake by not calling the police the same day. I had an impromptu work meeting pop-up and it forced me to fly out of town for 3 days. I'll probably call it in tomorrow. I'm sure my insurance would cover it but it's not worth the deductible + the higher premiums to follow. And I highly doubt they'll cover the cost to remove and recast a slab - over $12,000. So for now I just have to live with the graffiti. After I arrived today to see it again, it didn't look as bad as the morning after it was done. The 4 hours of wire brush scrubbing paid off at least a little. It's still awful though. If I find the kids that did it I'd love to shock them with a stun gun, just for a few minutes (or hours). I've been told that concrete can take up to 20 hours (in humid climates) to cure enough that it can't be scratched. Since 20 hours on a lawn chair is not realistic, I'm going to Sam's Club tomorrow and picking myself up a surveillance system. If they're brazen enough to come back - with cameras focused in on them - on the next pour, they'll be visiting the holding cell. I'll report back with what the police say.

Rain the day after is not usually an issue (not great to pour DURING rain though as it can effect the mix). It actually prevents the concrete from drying out too fast. I have seen people watering their concrete the day or two after it was poured in the summer to avoid it drying too fast. I had a driveway poured three weeks ago and believe me I was so nervous about the weather when it was poured as we had just had a few hot days, but day it was poured was a bit more moderate and we got some rain next day (and I was very happy). Don't hold me to this as I am not a concrete pro, but I am familiar with concrete driveways and such. This looks like efflorescence. Concrete takes time to cure. As it cures, salts come to the surface (the salts would be whatever was in the water, sand, or gravel that is in the mix) and show as white spots like this. If this is indeed it, it does not affect strength or anything, it is aesthetics only. I have some of these showing up too. If it has been a couple months since it was poured, you can remove them with a concrete efflorescence cleaner. As for sealing...if you "must" depends on your climate and how your municipality deals with winter. Where I am we are told to seal every fall with a penetrating concrete sealer as the salt/sand mix used by the City for the roads is brutal on concrete. We are actually required to in order to maintain our warranty. Really, I would do it anyway as it does lengthen the life of it :)

Contact the company that installed your driveway with this question. They should solve your problem, as their service should have a warranty period. I wouldn't say I like working with irresponsible companies which do not fulfill their duties. Many businesses initially propose a specific time period, but in the long run, fail to achieve it. I like driveway pavers who use the best types of equipment so that the work is accomplished quickly. I turned to paving contractors dublin for help. They did their job 100%.

I will reiterate and expand on what Charles Ross said. Concrete flatwork does not have to have steel. There are examples 100s, 1000s years old without it, and driveway aprons in public ROW often explicitly do not use steel for ease of replacement. Wire mesh and rebar simply hold the pieces of concrete together (horizontally and vertically) after it cracks through and moves (and they will at contraction joints). Fiber mesh (poly version) is only to prevent plastic (meaning still pliable) shrinkage cracks on the surface during the initial curing. Some engineers I've seen have recently been spec'ing it to replace wire mesh, but fiber is wholly misunderstood in the industry (by both mixing plants and contractors) in what it actually does, and that has been perpetuated to the layman and the internet. The reason you do not need steel is when you have a proper base. You do not have to have gravel either, just well-draining and compacted soil for the use designed for. The base supports the flatwork, so the concrete is concerned with compression loads (called a "one-way" slab). If you were to have a poor base, or pockets in it, then the concrete would need to support itself (and have high tension loads, called a "two-way" slab) and then would need steel, but the amount of rebar would be much more substantial than a #4 every 18" or so just to hold it together, making it overly costly for a slab on grade with light use. As far as the OP's situation, concrete is probably one of the most contentious items. It can go very wrong because there are so many outside variables, and is one of the costlier items to redo. The dips (not the crown) are unacceptable, and are probably the result of improper screeding tools (like not screeding the entire 16' width at once, or too long or poorly built forms). You'll probably find many shrinkage cracks soon, as the contraction joints look to be large at 16' square. Some of the miscoloring may disappear, but not before the surface gets stained over time. But $80,000 @ 12,000sf = $6.66/sf, which doesn't seem too far out of line.