I had the single swing-ups for many years in various German kitchens and loved them -- the only drawback being the occasional pinched finger if I was grabbing a plate near the edge and shutting with the other hand -- but this is a hazard of any type of hidden hinge, really. The mechanisms take up some space on the inside wall of the cab, too. Those bi-folds look interesting; I wonder how irritating that hanging/folded top door would be over time? I do love that these swinging upper doors don't hit you in the face when you leave them open, the way American side-opening uppers do. Also, you can open all the cabinets as you work and not have to shut one to get inside the other. I don't know why we don't use more of these hinge types over here...? Blum is a good brand and the Aventos lift-ups shouldn't lose their swing prematurely. Check out Haefele versions as well; each brand has a different arc and one swing might accommodate your space better than another.

The roller type has to have some rattle or there would be too much friction on the wheel (it needs clearance on one side of the wheel). Also, since the doors are only supported on one side (and are very light) that flimsy feel is going to be there, for the most part. Best advice is to make sure everything is level and plumb (including making sure the floor bracket is plumb front to back). It sometimes helps to put a pair of knobs or handles on the door instead of just the one provided. Alternatively, maybe you would prefer a pair of opposing doors, such as separating those bifolds and installing each on it's own set of hinges? It's been done before. Not too difficult if both sides are plumb. If you have drywall on the sides, then first install a jamb set on both sides and top, then install doors (Stanley had some surface mount hinges that will do the trick), then door stops around (or at least at the top), and finally ball catches at the top. No more rattle!

Is the laundry room going to be the full size of the current raised tub area or smaller? If it's going to take up the whole space, then why not put the wall just to this side of the current wall tile, thus avoiding walling in the tile?? If that's too big, then I'd just take down the wall tile and put new drywall in. It's a pretty simple job. And it'll look better, since the tile doesn't go all the way around the space.

kudzu, there are no jambs. The pivot base is screwed right into the top and bottom of the door opening on the problem door; thus into the wood under the drywall at the top, and into the wood floor at the bottom. I just went and checked it. The base is secure top and bottom. It's the metal pivot going into the door that is wobbling. The door starts tilting at the top, where it starts hitting the side of the door opening at the top. When the people installing the doors installed them, I guess they didn't know that a solid door needed more. I ordered the doors custom made so I could stain them to match my kitchen, and they did say they'd never seen anything like them. Last time he replaced them, my husband just went to Menard's and bought them, so I don't know if they were labeled for load capacity. Said if these failed, we were out of options. That's got to be it. Thank you so much for telling me about this! These are just too flimsy for the load of the solid wood oak door we bought. The door is tilting again. What kind of load capacity should I be looking for? Should I just weigh the door when we take it off? Can you get a variety of ones with different loads at a common home improvement store, or is this something I will need to order?