Those look like the total amounts of nutrients (and other things) that will become available as the material decomposes. They get those numbers by completely digesting the material with reagents and measuring the amounts of those elements in the resulting liquid. This is different from extracting the available amounts without digesting. That sort of analysis would only tell you what is immediately available and the numbers would be much lower. (Often they will split the sample and analyze it both ways and give you the immediately available nutrients and total values but it looks like the testing package you chose only gives totals) To figure out how much of each nutrient is supplied, just apply the percent of the nutrient you are interested in to the amount of material you will apply(on a dry weight basis). For example; If you applied ten pounds of that material (on a dry weight basis), by the time it is completely broken down, you will have added 0.254 lbs.(or about 4 ounces) of nitrogen to your soil. Of course, some of that nitrogen is going to be in the immediately available nitrate and ammonium forms, and would be an instant boost to soil fertility. But, those amounts aren't given. N, P and K percents are given, so those are easy. But to figure out how much of each element will be supplied, just convert ppm to a percent. That's as easy as dividing the value in ppm by 10000. For example. 38536 ppm of calcium equals 3.8536% by dry weight. So for each 10 lbs. you apply about .4 pounds of calcium would be supplied. Just to avoid confusion if anyone wants to run the numbers themselves, if you try that conversion on elemental potassium and phosphorous, it doesn't match the percents that they've given because they converted K and P into K2O and P205. Like so: 8919 ppm K divided by .825 (convert to K2O5) = 10810.9 ppm divided by 10000 (convert to percent) = 1.08% It's similar for phosphorous. Anyway, that gives you the amounts of the elements on a dry weight basis. However, without the moisture percent these amounts may vary a little from the actual weight since it probably contains at least a litter water. But not by too much I would guess. In regards to being nitrogen stable or a nitrogen draw is concerned, it's nitrogen stable. At a maximum of 100% organic material (which I guarantee it isn't), the calculated C/N ratio based on estimated carbon divided by total nitrogen would be about 23, so no problems there. As far as safe for plants or not, sodium and boron values are nice and low so you're good on that account. Whatever the pH is, it will shift towards neutral as it decomposes. The only potential issue I can imagine is if one of the elements is in a super soluble form, which could result in a salinity issue if used at a high rate. Unfortunately, they give total amounts and not soluble, which makes it tough to be 100% confident. However, I would guess it isn't too different from earth worm castings and I wouldn't expect any problems.

Jacinda, I found this information online: Laceweight, or 2-ply/3-ply: Although some sources say differently, generally speaking, 2-ply/3-ply yarns are very fine, almost threadlike yarn that are used for lacy garments such as shawls and scarves, and baby clothes. Fingering Yarn, or 4-ply: Also called "5-ply" in Australia and New Zealand, this yarn is also used for baby clothes and lacy garments, but is also used for Fair Isles and adult garments. (Granted, adult garments will take a long time to complete with such a fine yarn!) Since this yarn is fine, greater detail can be achieved when knitting a picture or motif into the garment. (In a different resource book, fingering weight yarn was considered the same as 2-ply and 3-ply yarn.) Sportweight, or DK (Double Knitting):This yarn is also "8-ply" in Australia and New Zealand. This versatile yarn is used for all types of garments worn from infancy through adulthood. It can be knitted up into lacy garments as well as garments with lots of texture and cables, and everything in between. There are many patterns available for this weight of yarn and it is very popular. It comes in many colors, and is also available with different effects, i.e. tweed (different flecks of color), heather (colors that are finely blended with paler shades for a gently speckled effect), brushed (fuzzy effect), and others. Aran, Worsted, or Triple: Also referred to as "knitting worsted" or 12-ply in Australia and New Zealand, this yarn is generally used for heavily textured garments involving cables and other such texture techniques. It used to only be available in natural unbleached shades of creamy white and ivory, but it is now available in many colors although the white is the traditional choice for the knitting of an Aran sweater. Chunky, or Bulky: 14 ply in Australia or New Zealand, this is heavy yarn that knits up quickly on large needles, and is often the choice of beginners since it is easy to handle and fast work. It comes in a wide range of colors, and is popular for oversized sweaters, jackets, and children's wear.

I have that same cookbook, but mine is from 1930. The first copyright date is 1908. It's still in the original box that it was mailed to my great, great grandmother in. She had given it to a neighbor lady who never married, and that lady gave it to my mother before she died (the neighbor died, not my mother). It doesn't appear to have been used. I have another cookbook just like it that belonged to someone else in my family. My mother ended up with it, too, but it's not complete. It has some pages missing and it's falling apart. I've never made any of the recipes. Some of them seem a little strange, especially in the "Cooking for the Sick" section. Here's one: "Beef Juice". Broil 1/2 pound of round steak for about 2 minutes to "start" the juice, then squeeze the juice out with a "meat press or an old fashioned wooden lemon squeezer." It says to serve it in a colored glass to disguise the color. Here's a tip from the cookbook that I've not heard of: "In mashed potato, to every quart (2 lbs.) add a level teaspoon of Rumford while creaming. The product will be fluffy, smooth and tasty." There's a recipe for "Eggs in Prison". In my book on p. 105, in the "Pastry" section, there's a recipe for "Short Paste" that calls for 3 c. flour, 1 level teaspoon salt, 2 level teaspoons Rumford baking powder, 1 c. lard, and ice cold water to mix. There's also "Five-minute Paste", "Flaky Paste" and "Puff Paste". Maybe that "Short Paste" recipe would be one to use for the OP's original question. The last page in my book is an ad for "Horsford's Acid Phosphate (Non-Alcoholic)". It's a solution of phosphates of lime, magnesia, potash and iron in phosphoric acid. It's a "scientific preparation recommended and prescribed by physicians of all schools". It was good for indigestion and dyspepsia; nervousness, exhaustion, etc.; headache; tired brain; weakened energy and sleeplessness.

It means the seller (likely the executor of the estate) knows NOTHING about the property. If they are smart they will use a special warranty deed t convey the place, as opposed to a general warrant deed. With general deed they put themselves personally in the line if a title issue comes up. Make sure you get an owner's title insurance policy with inflation coverage.