meg, believe it or not, originally the main bathroom had NO door entering it and was open to the rest of the house ... only the little toilet cubicle inside had a separate door. That worked for us as long as the kids were little but now with 2 preteen girls it just didn't do it anymore. When we designed the new door it was rather difficult to come up with a solution, especially as there was no way we could have matched the stucco walls. The glass over the door works very well with the openess of the rest of the house.

Thanks for the info gaw1, I have already ordered my mirror but I think it always helps to have more info on the board for others who might be dealing with the same issues. I did use the blue painter's tape for our mock up and it helped a lot. --the width of our mirror is roughly the area between our sconces. I could have gone a couple inches wider, but any wider would have had the mirror behind the sconces which, apparently, is a designer no-no. --the bottom of our mirror is roughly even with the heighest curve of our faucet, maybe an inch or two higher. --the top edge of our mirror is high enough that the length of each sconce is centered in the length of the mirror, with the lights of the sconces being higher than the middle. Our frame is going to be much shorter than yours--by about a foot. Our designer (and the frame shop) both said not to match the window trim height, or the door trim, because it would be too high and narrow in our small room, but it's all a matter of personal preference. --we went with a wider bevel, 1 1/4 inches as our designer recommended, although I think a 1" bevel would have been fine. I do worry about that but it's too late now. (I found out after the fact that using a wider bevel meant using a thicker mirror, which upped the price some more.) We did use two different frames, one with more detail and coloration and the inside which is essentially a very narrow silverish beaded piece. The only issue that I wasn't thrilled with was that they didn't know how well they could match the curvy patterns at the mitered corners. I gave them flexible dimensions so that they could play with it. I saw the frame in the shop a couple days ago and it looks beautiful. The design doesn't match perfectly but it's still great. I don't know about you but I was shocked at the price. I must have been living under a rock.

I don't have a pic of the light but this is similar. Bought it for $20 on varagesale and I was going for budget friendly. I would be open to switching out the light once everything is put together if it doesn't look good. I do like your idea Olychick! I tend to go for character over plain but because the wallpaper is soooo busy I wasn't sure if a busy frame would be the way to go. A beveled edge may be a good choice. Thanks :)

To get ideas, search rustic bathroom lighting on Pinterest. If only wanting 20 watts in ceiling light, consider how much light you will need over mirror and a single cone shape may not provide enough. In regards to the ceiling light below, it takes up to 60 watts so if needing more light you can go higher than 20