depends on the load above it.

3 rafters cross that wall out of 70ft, nothing else the roof is shallow 60s construction. What did you expect was above it on a ranch style house?

3 rafters cross that wall out of 70ft, some insulation and a lot of air. Nothing else, the roof is shallow 60s construction. What did you expect was above it on a ranch style house?

You should have no problem with a double 2x6 spanning 5 feet. make sure to support it with double jack studs on both ends.

When we make our headers, we sandwich a chunk of plywood in between so the header is the same thickness of the wall.

Some times the hardest part is figuring out how to support everything while getting the new header in place.

We bought two support posts and have used them extensively during our remodel (whole house).

This picture shows the posts holding up an exterior support wall while we rebuilt it (had to do that several places.

Cathy

Your front yard looks exactly like the view from the house we just sold in south Alabama.

That's what I was going to use, 2 - 2x6 and a double jack post. In the new wall I can hide the double post but attaching to the end of the fireplace I have to add then and they will stick out. I don't like it but I don't know how to avoid it.
How do you upload a picture?

Thank you

Normal rule of thumb is 2 inches of doubled 2x beam for every foot of opening - and you know for sure you are safe. Since you are spanning 5 ft, I would suggest two 2x10.

Here is a link that might be useful: Greengate Ranch Remodel

Here is a picture, all the cabinets will go and a new wall on the right. The cabinets on the left go and thed oor entrance from the top to right to the left wall will go as will the left return wall from behind the stove to the opening. The new header will be as drawn.

Here is a link that might be useful:

ttfweb, were did you read that?

I've never found anything close to recommending that large of boards for that small of a span. I've read 1" as a general rule of thumb. For our shop, the building was spec'd for a double 2x12 for a 16' opening.

However, we normally won't go less than a 2x6 for regular doors and windows (3'-4' spans).

larrylwill - had to laugh about your Alabama comment. This is our front yard about a year ago

This year, we didn't get much snow but we've got another chance tomorrow - spring isn't here yet.

I live in SD, a bit farther north. It does get hot in the summer, and the grass goes dormant. Sure like not having to mow for a month or two.

Cathy

If you take your info to the local lumber yard they usually have an engineer in the estimating department that will let you know the specs of what you need. It takes the guess work out of it and you know its up to par then.

Even with your detailed explanation & the pictures, I'm confused on what you are trying to do. Davidandkasie asked a very valid question. For a typical ranch home the area that you show a header going is typically a ceiling joist. I understood your response that the load above is "air & insulation" plus the ceiling itself but then the question is why do you need a header? To support what? What makes that a load bearing wall? It has to be there to support some kind of load.

Now if the header is actually in the crawlspace (i.e. supporting the floor area) then the following applies.

If you go strictly by the 2006 IRC Residential building code then the header spans for INTERIOR bearing walls are dependant upon the building width which for a ranch is typically the depth of the building (i.e. perpendicular to the roof ridge).

For a 1-story ranch & 20', 28', & 36' building spans, 2-2X6s can span 4'6",3'11", & 3'6" respectively, 2-2X8s can span 5'9", 5'0", & 4'5" respectively, and 2-2X10s can span 7'0", 6'1", & 5'5" respectively.

I should have added two other items...

1. If this is really a load bearing wall then there needs to be a "load bearing" path all the down to any footings or foundation.

2. Rafters don't typically cross/bear on interior walls. Are you referring to ceiling joists? Or do you really have trusses?

Mike13:
Here are some pictures.
1 is from the LR The black X wall is what In removing, The Y is a maybe. The white X had a built in I'm putting back studs and wall board to cover the opening. 2 is from the kitchen, 3 is after. The new wall will go where I've drawn in the black sides and top. The X is what is going. The Y is maybe going also. 4 shows above where I'm working. The black is where the existing walls are. Blue is the brick fireplace, red is where the new header and wall is going.
There are 2 support walls, you can see the center one in 5. The other is running through the chimney over approx where I'm putting the new header. Above where the old door and header is a 2x4 running across the cealing joists tying them together. 6 is a long shot of the kitchen and 7 is a long shot from the LR, befor and after are the old and new layout with the entrance now in the laundry room instead of the kitchen.
If you need more please let me know.

These are the rest

I'm am certainly not an structural engineer, but after seeing the images of the attic space, I'm not convinced that that is a load-bearing wall. It certainly doesn't appear to be supporting the roof in any way, the only load appears to be the center of the ceiling joints, which _may_ be big enough to support themselves.
It may well be worth asking an actual structural engineer, the money you'd pay the engineer may well be offset by the money you save if it turns out to not be a load-bearing wall.

You may be right, that wall I'm removing is about 10 ft from the outside wall and 20 ft from the center of the LR as seen in the attic picture but the center of the LR now used to be an outside wall, someone added a 32ft beam with columns and closed in the porch some years ago.