Welcome to my world. I deal with a reported vehicle problem similar to this on almost a daily basis. Most of the time before they get to me they usually have already had a few hundred dollars worth of parts thrown at them. First order of business is to figure out what you are losing. Even the "no codes" is a clue. Inside the repair industry techs are very much left to find their own way. Call it the price to be paid, for the money saved when people use discount tire stores ect. To that end, there really are very few techs that can afford to invest the time and effort to learn how to diagnose your car's problem, let alone invest in the equipment to support the effort. Here is the routine that must be followed. First how often does it happen and under what conditions? You actually started to describe it occuring when the car is hot, and that is great. Now lets really narrow it down. How far must the car be driven for a tech like myself to expect that I would experience a failure event? How long of a time will the failure event last? Does the car restart right away when it dies? Does it die while cruising down the highway, or while slowing to a stop? Does it die when accelerating? Does it happen randomly in any or all of the previous conditions? You started talking about disabling the decel or anti-diesel solenoid on the Toyota carbureted car in your second response. Throw that information away, it has no bearing on what the Crown Victoria is doing now. When someone tries to make a comparison like that I call the outcome "Tainted Intuition". If you would show up here at my shop with your car, and lets say you already replaced a few hundred dollars worth of parts, I would stop you from telling me what you have already done. I don't want to know. The reason is you may have easily built a second (or maybe even a third) problem into the vehicle over top of the first one, and the challenge the public holds pro's to is to actually find not only the initial problem, but to not let any others slip by undetected as well, even if the owner is responsible for adding the problem! If I start with a fresh perspective, I won't succumb to the habit of assuming that the "XXXX" sensor is new and it was doing this before it was replaced, so it cannot possibly be the problem. The truth is, it absolutely can still be the problem for any number of reasons. There is a very logical routine that must be followed for every diagnosis, the problem is many don't see what routine to follow until after the problem is found, if they even actually see it then. That's one of the most difficult classes that I teach techs today, how to use a more logical, strategy based routine to perform diagnostics in an efficient manner. So here is where you take your first step. Why is the no code actually important? Name a couple things that could cause the vehicle to shut down without the computer detecting the shut down that occured was a problem. When the shut down occured, again how long does it take to re-start the engine? This gives me a chance to predict how much time I actually have to perform the diagnostics during each failure event. When shut down occurs are you losing fuel? That could be from fuel pressure loss, as well as injector trigger. What about Spark? Spark is measured by the ignition systems ability to jump a tester that requires 25,000v to jump the gap, not just from a wire to the valve cover.. Are you losing both spark and fuel? Does your check engine light come on as soon as the car quits? Does the check engine light NOT come on when attempting to restart the car? Can the imminent stall be prevented by using the throttle, in the event the stall occurs during decel. This vehicle does have scan data even though the PCM isn't setting a code. Scan data will report trends which are used to see if the computer is compensating for some type of a problem. What are long and short trem fuel trims at idle, cruise, moderate accel, and decel? What is the reported spark timing under those same previous conditions? What is the scanned BARO reading, and what altitude are you at? What are the IAC counts? That's the start. There are no silver bullets to kill this gremlin. You'll have to learn how to work through this just like a tech does. Oh BTW. If you take more than one crack at this imagine what you (or others) would be saying about a shop that didn't fix it the first visit. Picture yourself in a shop and this car is sitting in your bay, for the second, or third time. Now you have to figure it out and fix it, and you not even going to be paid for the time that you spend because you guaranteed it would be done right the first time!

What I meant was in answer to the questions about what antivirus programs to get Owbist had given a list of good known programs, anytime you are going to get a program you do not know of always come here and ask so we can make sure you are getting a good legit program. There are many many of these rogue programs out there now and we try to keep anyone from falling for their tricks. They are serious malware that act like they are legit programs. You likely can not get the money back since you used paypal, I am not real familiar with their terms, but you are lucky you did not give them your actual credit card info so that part is good. The worst part is now you have a bad situation on your computer. My best suggestion is for you to follow my directions to go to the other forum and ask for help telling them you got Antivirus elite. If you need help posting there I can do that for you, I am there also. Just let me know if you want me to start the post there for you. They will lead you step by step using some specialized programs to get your pc cleaned up.

Give me your old computer, or give it to someone you trust , i wouldnt risk giving a hard drive to the trash without a hammer. I have been using Avast on Vista laptop here as it seems to be the most popular right now... but that could change fast with a new version. Unless you live in a multifamily building its seriously doubtful anyone will want to steal your wifi connection and the connections with your bank and such will be highly encrypted,, no one will be cracking into that quickly in the short amount of time you're going to be using it. Follow proper security recomendations and you'll be fine. New solo browser window for your banking or other secure financials... highly recommended if you have wifi or cable network of any kind ;) And close it and clear cache when youre done,,, unless youre positive all youre sharing is blocked. Public hotspots ,,, Vista has a special public place security feature you can use... great for single stand alone non networked computers in the home too. Wifi is cool and 'nearly' totally secure - it would be unusual for someone to gain access to yours unless you have a crook for a neighbor or a stupid kid. ,, im fixing to unsecure mine now for a few days... if I see someone using it ,, I'll block them if its not one of my freindly neighbors accidentally connected. Not a big deal to me if I know the user. But easily secured so youre the only one that has access without some hacking. Hacking into wifi is a serious crime in most communities. my two pennies anyways.... if you dont have wifi now call your isp before running out and buying something,, they maybe will sell you something cheap,, or give it to you and then support it too if you need help setting it up.

The biggest constraint is How much can you spend? Your GPU is as almost as important as your CPU. That and RAM (even HP has a sign up on their computer buying configuration page: WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND 2GB RAM FOR VISTA) plus COOLING and of course a tower that can handle power. For everyday use and enjoying multi-media along with playing a few games...you would need an entry level gaming computer. That's what Vista and all the new applications would require. My cousin was just over we were watching video reviews of "Oblivion", and he asked me how come I can watch Oblivion on my computer but not play it? Because a video game isn't a movie. You are controlling your character and how its effects the surroundings. He said I bet that makes that makes you mad...it sure does. Micro Express was a choice from PC World, I believe. I liked what I saw. The cables are bundled nicely for good air flow within the case. There was a choice of getting a better case that would handle more electrical power. For a budget entry, the graphic cards available didn't seem bad at all. One of my all time favorite computer companies is ABS. They started being the little engine that could and blew Dell and even Falcon Northwest away with their gaming models, eight or nine years ago. Then they got famous and made about 60 different computers and fell flat on their face. They are climbing back and blew $10,000.00 (yes that is ten thousand dollars) Falcon Northwest away with there $4,000.00 X9. Now I'm expecting anyone to blow $4,000.00 away on a computer. But the point is that Tom's Hardware thought is was as good, and even better than the ten thousand dollar Falcon. ABS makes gaming computers and workstations...nothing else. They really got themselves in order. I lean towards gaming computers, not only because my only goal in middle aged life is now to play Oblivion on a computer, but because they are built to deal with usage that graphics demand. Vista and Aero are all about graphics. That's how people should envision the new OS...a big game, one that puts just as much heat and stress on a computer as Oblivion would. Oblivion (while being almost two years old itself) is still the ultimate test of any worthy computer. Dell has many contenders in this category, I think PC Magazine gave Dell 2nd or 3rd behind Falcon Northwest, but this complete Dell system rang in at over 7,000.00. Better costs, and costs quite a bit more. This is another problem with the bigger PC commpanies, they all make some very good computers, but they all make some stinkers too. PC World Review of Micro Express (the case can be upgraded upon configuration, I don't think the monitor is included as the review states): http://www.pcworld.com/article/id,127980-page,1-c,desktoppcs/article.html ABS M5 (entry level) compare page: http://www.abs.com/app/m5v_compare.asp I configured the Elite at 1,335.00 and that was for the tower only. That was with premium 2GB RAM and Mirosoft Works...and I think a slightly better processor and GPU. Its going to be very expensive once you are out of the value group, especially with Vista. These computers come with great cooling options and top of the line RAM options. It costs. These are probably more affordable than the Dells in the same category. For monitors, I think Samsung has some great deals on their 19 inch widescreens, but their 1280 X 1024 aren't too shabby either. http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SyncMaster-941BW-Monitor-Black/dp/B000JKERJG/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-2368742-1836666?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1174535967&sr=1-1 I you are curious as to what all this Oblivion talk is about: http://elderscrolls.com/art/obliv_pc_screens_01.htm Click the thumbs for a view of some incredible detail of this 3D world where the game is amaziongly interactive, raising the graphic bar to a whole new level. marf