Well, I finally did it...overseeded the 10-month-old TTPR/KBG lawn with TTTF and KBG...and it worked! So it can be done...but read on to find out how I did it...I was quite careful due to what people on here had told me about the PR messing with the germination of other seed due to allelopathy. I did this a little over a month ago now. I actually prefer the lawn consisting of a mixture of these three species, guess I'm odd since no one else here seems to like that three-way mix). We're at ~4.5 weeks now. The existing PR thankfully did not prevent or delay germination of the new seed. The TTTF started to come up within 6 days, and was fully up in about 3 weeks time. The KBG just started coming up last week. Perhaps it wored so well because the PR was only 10 months old. Or b/c it got heat stressed. Or b/c I mowed it to ~1.8 inches before hand on the last mowing before starting the project. I also thinned the lawn fairly drastically prior to over seeding, by utilizing heavy core aeration (three passes) and also verticutting (two passes). I brought up a lot of dead and living grass in the process. I'm currently touching up the few spots that need it with a little extra seed. Here are some photos of the project (same area plus or minus a foot or two) at the various stages for reference (I do consider it a successful outcome even if it was my first time doing it and I learned a lot!): The top photo is the before photo, taken on 8/17/12. The middle photo is about ten days after overseeding, on 8/29/12. You can see the existing PR and KBG, and the TTTF was in the midst of germination, but is hard to see in the pic. And the bottom photo is from 9/21/12, taken right after the first mowing and application of starter fertilizer (I decided to hold off on the fertilizer until after germination so as to slow the growth of the existing grass to prevent it from overtaking the new grass. I'm glad I did this). Here is what I used for overseeding: -TTTF (approx 75% Firecracker LS and 25% Bullseye) -KBG (approx 33% each of America, Bewitched, and Rugby II) -A low amount of the existing TTPR seed blend (see below) was mixed with the fescue and KBG seed; I only used this in those areas that were really bare after the verticutting/raking. In this way, I created a uniform lawn in the bare spots that blended with the old grass. (The existing lawn prior to overseeding was a blend of KBG and three cultivars of TTPR sourced from from Allied Seed: ASP6005, ASP6002, and ASP 6001.)

@ Sophie The entire reason that cost plus contracts were born was to remove contractors from quality decisions. For example, when NASA wants to build a rocket, they want to ensure quality rather than that it can be done under budget. This is done by control of the bidding process from all subcontractors. This idea of quality control and it's side effect of cost control was perfect for capital investments by businesses and so shortly after WW2 they stole it. When used well, by parties who understand the ideas, it works well for home construction also. However, too many contractors want to use it as if it is essentially a fixed price contract without any risk to them. If you want to ensure quality, or protect supply house relationships, then use a fixed price bid. However, if you want to be largely indemnified from any loss by using a cost plus contract then you give up all rights to dictate quality. There are many far less complimentary words to call someone who takes advantage of the lack of knowledge and experience of their customers. I went with lazy, because I believe the reason most contractors do this is because they simply don't want to go through the effort of producing a fixed price bid, when they can do a serious bid for their money and rough estimates for everything else. @ Joseph Nothing in the original post makes me think they agreed at any time to use his recommended supplier. They even call it a recommended supplier rather than a required supplier. Just because they are agree to a standard cost plus (contractor's net cost, plus contractor's set fee) doesn't mean he gets to decide where his costs come from. That is the consumer's purview in a cost plus contract.

@Lori A. Sawaya Happy Thanksgiving !! I am looking to get some idea before appointment as first time buyer for Kitchen. I am looking for 2 tone kitchen cabinet, Thanks a ton for above thread, upper could be PPG Dedicate white and lower equivalent to BM Hale Navy, would you please help to find equivalent of BM's Hale Navy on PPG, I checked Cavalry & Annapolis Blue both are near to that but I am not sure, if those are accurate. Ceiling : PPG Dedicate White, Trim - PPG Dedicate White , Counter - White & Grey Granite, Cabinet : Upper Fixture : PPG Dedicate White, Lower : BM Hale Navy equivalent., Island : BM HN, South Facing large open concept Kitchen with Family Room, Breakfast Nook : PPG Whiskers equivalent to Agreeable Grey. Attached catalog pages for reference.

It is worth pointing out, I think, that the pressure differential across the blower, called pressure loss, is essentially the same whether the blower is in the hood, at the end of the duct outside, or in a door blowing into an otherwise sealed house. The pressure loss is the sum of all the losses due to friction and turbulence in the duct, duct cap where present, hood transitions, baffles, make-up air system restrictions, etc. Any slight differences in pressure loss with blower position will be due to local transitions where the blower is mounted versus the blower's air flow uniformity at the blower exit. The resulting flow rate will be that which applies to that pressure loss on the fan curve plot. Front of hood deposited grease is due to insufficient overlap and/or insufficient air velocity at the hood aperture. Hoods are generally poor at drawing air from the vicinity of the burners. Most plume capture depends on the plume's upward velocity, mainly driven by the buoyancy of hot grease and water vapor and air. The plume naturally expands as it rises, hence hood aperture overlap is desirable.