Full staging vs. suggestive staging?
jakabedy
10 years ago
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lazy_gardens
10 years agokirkhall
10 years agoRelated Discussions
1 stage vs 2 stage furnace with a Heat Pump
Comments (1)What is the wattage rating of the the low and high stages? I would think the low stage of the electric furnace would be sufficient as auxiliary back up heat. But in your location it can get very cold and you may need the high stage. Can your thermostat control three stages of heat? If yes then you may want to set it as a three stage system (heat pump, 1st stage furnace, 2nd stage furnace). I am not sure how this works with lock out temperature settings. Call Honeywell for guidance....See More1 stage vs. 2 stage infinity a/c
Comments (2)I have found in my own 2 story home that the AC cannot push the heavy cold air up to the top level in low speed, so I have to keep it in high speed. I also find that leaving my fan on continuously helps aleviate the stratification of the air between the two floors. Normally, for a one story home I would pick the two speed, but for a 2 story I would go with the single speed. Your ECM motor is built to run continuously for the life of the furnace....See More2-stage/2-zone vs 1-stage/1-zone & foam vs fiberglass ?
Comments (12)Those prices are high. When you pay that much for HVAC, it really makes sense to superinsulate and then just use electric baseboards. Even 1/2 of $17k would get the structure to a level where you could fully heat with electric baseboards for what you want for $100 a year. If you need a/c, do a minisplit for $4000 installed and that $100 goes to $30. By superinsulate - sprayfoam is not it. In your climate, you want R40 walls which is achieved by 12 inch thick walls with cellulose/fiberglass or 3-4 inches of rigid foam on top of 2x4 wall. Sprayfoam has its place but filling a cavity with it is not what it is best for. Are you really looking at R20 walls? Is that even code? Or is there rigid foam that you have also? There are no drafts in a modern wall - fiberglass or not. $8k for sprayfoam is a waste. If it is 2 inches of rigid foam on the outside - then it is not. My walls in NC are zip R3 over fiberglass bibs in 2x6. The small amount of rigid foam just helps with the thermal bridging of the framing. The bibs fill voids much better than batts. It is blown in. We have foam in small areas that bibs would not work with. I think $10k did our 3800 sqft house (not counting the zip R which was $3k upcharge over zip). I would think you would want R-80 in the roof which is probably best achieved by rigid foam over the sheathing given the rafter space needed. Or you could just do code minimum and minisplit with electric baseboard back up it since it isn't full time use....See More1 stage vs 2 stage HVAC
Comments (144)Ok glad you found that useful. I decided to see if I could find some proof of the same ole shenanigans... yep sure did. Heavy on marketing and gimmicks low on realism and truth. But who needs truth? Now does this mean I am bashing Trane or Am. Standard? Only to the point in which they think their product is better than something else. The marketing gimmicks. They have to do that to charge more. If they told you 'hey our products are good, but you will pay more over the life of the equipment' would the you still buy it? But Ray, why wouldn't you just shut up and sell it anyway? This comment right here: 'Hey, you sold me this equipment --- you said it was the 'best', what do you mean the indoor coils are leaking freon? What do you mean the compressor is making noise that will eventually lead to it's death? This equipment is still new... if it was the best why am I having all these problems? That's why. --- no HVAC equipment is immune to failure. none. So sorry, Trane / American Standard is just as good --- or as bad as anything else. It will cost more to repair it. Marketing gimmicks cost money. -------- But what should I do then? Focus on design. Things like zoning / how it is going to be done. What is the better way for the project to be done? Sizing of the equipment. Don't over size even if you are buying 2 speed equipment. (A half ton over size is fine. Nearly 2 tons over size? uh---- NO.) Things like how much equipment versus controls --- further from that lay out. Ease of future service, the ability to easily repair the equipment, replace when that time comes. Things to reduce maintenance problems and or expenses. These things are fleeting when trying to get the 'cheapest price' outside of what the equipment costs. Because design is the skill level attained by 'experience'. With that said, new construction is often times none of these things. It's more along the line of sell the system(s), hire the sub contractor to do it --- and that sub contractor makes more money by completing as many jobs as they can. More often than not new construction has little to do with great design. Because of that I would zone the new construction home with 'equipment' as opposed to controls especially because you have the room to do so (5k sq ft) If you want zoning, add it later with someone who has in depth knowledge that it's even feasible. Experience is gained over years, decades in the HVAC field. As noted previously I do not do new construction. I come after the builder is long gone... in some cases as little as 1 year after the house was built. I service the Katy, Texas area....See Morejakabedy
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