I just stumbled upon this discussion and felt compelled to make my contribution. I know brick because I work for a brick manufacturer. However, I will try to keep my personal bias at bay. The first issue to address is durability. When installed properly, either option will provide many decades of service. Both materials have the compressive strength and moisture absorption ratings to withstand the harshest climates nature can throw at them. There is actually another factor affecting cement pavers, but since it doesnt actually cause failure of the unit, I will address it in the appearance section. Either way, make sure your bricks/pavers are designed to go in the ground. Not all cement materials, nor are all bricks designed to do this. It was mentioned that the deterioration of house bricks in a patio was unheard of and that it would actually be an advantage to find reclaimed bricks from a demolition project. DO NOT DO THIS! For a segmental paving material to withstand Mother Nature, it must have a minimum compressive strength of 8,000 psi and a maximum absorption rate of 7% after a 24 hour soak in cold water. I have seen historical test data from the mid 1900Âs that showed that many solid house bricks (which were often used mistakenly as pavers) had compressive strengths around 5,000 psi and absorption rates in the double digits! Needless to say, those ill-fated patios are either long gone or a horrible eyesore now. Now that you can be comfortable in choosing a durable product, the second issue to address is appearance. Additional factors besides just the look of the brick/paver should be considered. For instance, do you want your pavement to match the colors of the bricks on your house? Will you be incorporating any retaining walls in your project? No matter how hard you try, you simply cannot match a clay color in a cement product and vice versa. Brick makers do not currently make a dry-stack retaining wall system; therefore a brick retaining wall will require more work. However, if you are trying to create a stately atmosphere it may be worth the additional work (or hiring of a mason contractor) to build your retaining wall. The first factor of appearance, the look of the actual brick/paver does speak pretty much for itself. However, I do want to address some comments from the thread. To my knowledge (I have not researched this) cement pavers have always had their colors mixed throughout the paver. (End lack of research warning.) What is actually happening is fading due to ultraviolet radiation. This can be mistaken for the coloring only being on the surface because with time cement pavers will actually wear down. This is evident in a cement paver project once it has been installed for about 10 years. Because the erosion is visible (you can actually see the aggregate) it is commonly believed that coloring is superficial as well. I do not see the issue of erosion as a durability factor since the units will still be in one piece and the pavement system as a whole will not fail. (Personal bias warning in effect)However, after all your hard work and money put into your project, wouldnÂt you want it to look the same as it does now in ten years? (End bias warning.) To be fair, cement pavers can be sealed on an annual basis to ensure their color retention. However, when you add up the cost of initial construction and yearly maintenance over ten years, you could probably install solid granite for about the same cost. (I havenÂt done the math and may have exaggerated, so research it for yourself and see.) There are advantages for both products (Although one list may be longer than the other!) and your unique concerns and application should be considered. In addition, other pavement options such as bluestone and granite are worth researching and considering as well. I know this has been an extremely long reply, but I sincerely hope it helps you make an informed decision. While there are not as many "genuine clay paving brick" retailers as paver retailers, we are out here. Do your research and you will find us!

We are in the very early planning stages of a building a new home and I'm wanting to gather together info on what's out there and how different flooring options compare (cost wise as well as functionality) to the various (and from how they appear, very cool) techniques that can be accomplished using concrete...ie: thin stamp, acid stain, etc). Personally after having dreadful wood laminate flooring in most of my busy areas (except the kitchen and baths) I'd personally do the whole house in concrete....I think it looks pretty amazing in general....But I'd love to hear from those out there who have had success or otherwise with this approach. And I'd be willing to be convinced that REAL wood would be easier to keep looking nice vs the laminate junk.... I would like to be able to compare the cost to other typical flooring that the concrete techniques mimick. If anyone has this info. And finally, I'd LOVE to know of some good sources/companies who do this type of work, although I realize that this info will have to ultimately be found from my area...

A fiberglass shell MUST have at least a two foot and preferably a 3 foot concrete collar. This provides added weight and rigidity, especially if the pool needs to be emptied for service needs. Concrete crack formation can be minimized by using certain techniques that may add to the up front cost. Some masons cut these corners to come in on a job at a lower cost. Cut corners may include improper soil prep, fewer expansion joints, cheap mix, thin spots, and a litany of other potential variables. While it's true that even with the extra steps taken, concrete may still form a crack, it creates a surface that will last decades and will be unaffected by a salt cell's use. A swimming pool salt water chlorine generator won't create cracks or make them worse. Someone is swinging the FUD bat. FWIW, pavers are usually made of concrete, just in smaller pieces. Some regions actually pour a concrete bed first. Sea water is a different animal than water in a pool. It's a different salt and in a different concentration plus there are a lot of other factors that are different. What the ocean does to concrete and steel vs. what pool water does is comparing apple to oranges. Scott

We had a similar decision to make last winter and ultimately went with concrete. For us, the look of concrete goes better with the house and it's cleaner because there is no sand between pavers to track inside. That, and it was the cheapest option. Wet-laid flagstone and brick are much nicer but about 5x the cost. Depending on the gravel, there may only be minimal surface prep needed before being able to pour right on top since you're already 4" deep. Especially if you go with concrete, make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing and gives you details on exactly what will be done (rebar spacing, type of concrete mix, finish type, cut lines, etc). It's true that concrete cracks. After 1 harsh winter we have a few _hairline_ cracks (you really have to look to see them) but even so we're still very happy how the slab turned out.