Judy your need to protect southern genetics from cold depends on several factors. Each one has varying degrees of ability to withstand cold.. obvious to say.. but applied it does vary. If the plants are growing well and one gets a real harsh cold event earlier in the fall.. say a rare tank down to 17F or some unreal number that can and does happen here... some tender daylilies can DIE from these events. Should these come around.. do cover well for that event. Most all southern daylilies will cold acclimate to some extent as fall temps gradually get colder. Once the ground starts to freeze.. the main idea is getting the ground well frozen sans killing the plant. Then avoiding sunlight and warm days from thawing the crown soil area and restarting growth in the vigorous Ev types. Cover that plant with a 15 gallon garbage sack full of leaves.. use a white color.. this reflects more sunight and doesn't heat as much as darker colors. Do try to use DRY leaves.. wet ones heat on those sunny days. As fall into winter progresses.. before real cold air comes staying under 20-25F.. do cover those tenders with said bags in a block fashion... a good 3x3' area and more around that crown. Best to have them all in a group.. bagging the whole area. One can use an indoor/outdoor thermometer.. placing the outdoor probe near the crown level of the plant you figure is the most tender. I don't like to see temps under 17-20F... mine usually hover around 20F on the southside of the house for the coldest. Daytime temps are higher. Once everything is froze in well... pile all the snow you can on that area. The most tender plants also can be parked in the beer fridge.. pot'm and set them up at 35-40F. Make sure they don't go dry.. but this is the safest way to protect your more whimpy plants.

Absolutely gorgeous table!! Yes, you are right to worry about cracks and it should be covered with a waterproof cover. It is the moisture freezing and thawing,not the freezing temperatures that cracks cement planters. I would dry off any apparent moisture and then cover it, but put a couple of blocks under the tarp so you have some air flow. The next sunny day when the temperature is above freezing take the cover off and let the sun dry it more. Then cover it again before nightfall. I have hung clothes out when the temperature is 5 C--that's around 40 F and they are almost dry when I bring them in so the sun should dry any remaining moisture on your table.

I'm guessing if it was made for outdoors that they've tested it for that environment and would warn you otherwise. Of course, you can't count of that. My mom has a plastic tablecloth for her dining room table and the underlining is a thick flannel type material. It's used under a regular tablecloth, but its purpose is so you can set hot casseroles, etc. on it without damaging wood. Wonder if something like that would work in conjunction with normal patio table cover? Just to help isulate it? I agree you may want to leave an air gap. Just throwing that out there....

No problem - i'm zone 3 (Tropical 3, did you notice? LOL). I'm pretty sure that way in the archives there's a thread about moving roses. I did move Hansa many years ago but it didn't sulk as badly as Champlain, or Therese Bugnet, which I moved earlier this summer. She still isn't happy and looks awful. Hansa came around and is crazy big now - has world domination issues! I'm hoping these will recover as well as it did - or almost, since I don't need more roses wanting to take over the world!