Hoping to keep this thread alive... I've done my first re-tying and pruning of the spring shoots on my Belgian fence espalier. Question: What length do you keep your fruiting spurs? I trimmed to about 3 inches last year and this year I'm pinching new growth to about 3-4 leaves. In the one guide I found that mentioned a length, it recommended 5 inch spurs, which seems like it would be too thick for my spacing (2 feet between trees, should be about 16-2/3" sides on my diamonds). I did lose one tree over the winter--my Stayman's Winesap. Luckily, a local farm store had some semi-dwarf Stayman in stock. The replacement was about 6 feet tall and on who-knows-what rootstock. I pulled the original tree and potted the M7 rootstock, which was surprisingly small, and toyed with the idea of attempting a graft from the 4 feet I lopped off of the new tree. I didn't get around to it, but it was in full bloom and I doubt i'd have gotten it to take on the 4 inches of M7 I had left. The new tree had nice roots and I fretted over lopping off all that greenery after it had just spent so much energy blooming, but it is finally pushing some nice strong leaves a couple weeks later. (sorry it's sideways) I also need to remedy a pear that has been trained slightly too vertical. It was pushing buds on the top half of the branches, but the lower halves were bare. Just with a little re-tying to the wire frame, it has started pushing a few leaf buds. I'll be trying some spreaders on it soon to push it a little further. It's just left of the central tree in front of the thick part of the asparagus behind the row. A few holes here and there, but I may get a few fruits this year and I think it will be taking shape nicely by this fall. Anyone else with espalier updates? I'd also really appreciate tips on how you handle pruning your spurs (length, thinning fruit, renovating spurs, etc.).

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Knowing what types or roses and how many that you have would help. You have two options as far as blackspot is concerned, the first is to treat them with a fungicide and the second is to dig your old ones up and plant disease-resistant roses. The "organic" remedies don't work here for blackspot. Powdery mildew, yes, blackspot, no. Now, just in case the second option doesn't sound appealing, I will direct you to the rose garden in the park in Eatontown on Rt. 35 S, just south of 537, next to the Mobil station. All of these roses are "no spray" meaning that they get no or very little blackspot and don't lose their leaves if they do get any. There are are a few more newer roses on the market that are also no-spray and do well here. This is your best option if you don't want to use commercial fungicides. Back to the first option. If you don't have a lot of roses, you can try Bayer Advanced All-In-One. It is a combined fertilizer, systemic fungicide and systemic insecticide. I have had reports that it works well. If the idea of a systemic insecticide is not attractive, then you will have to spray the fungicide. Bonide Infuse (same active ingredient as Banner Maxx, if you read about that one on the Roses Forum) is very effective, needs to be sprayed every two weeks, and last year Brock Farms in Colts Neck had it in stock. this is a "systemic" fungicide, which keeps any blackspot from emerging. I hear that Bayer Advanced Disease Control is also good, I haven't used it. You will also need Mancozeb (or Manzate), which is a "contact" fungicide. This helps suppress any existing blackspot. You can mix the two together and spray them every two weeks. You have to start spraying soon after pruning, and continue to spray throughout the growing season, through September. Once you see blackspot, it is too late. The key is prevention. If you are available this coming Saturday, the Jersey Shore Rose Society is holding their monthly meeting at the Womens Club of Little Silver, right across the street from Sickles Market. Beginner's Q&A starts @ 12:30, general meeting @ 1:30. You may sit in on one meeting without being a member. On the JBs, if you don't want to use a commercial insecticide, then those options you gave are pretty close to it. Some people have tried Milky Spore or BT (sprayed in the lawn to kill the grubs), but for these to really be effective you have to do your lawn and your neighbors too. Oh, and on those traps, if you MUST use them (I won't), then you need to place them as far away from the roses as possible. Merit (imidicloprid) is a very effective insecticide for JBs. Bottom line is that if you want to stay with natural or organic remedies, then you have to get disease resistant roses. If you just HAVE to HAVE hybrid teas, then you've got to treat with a fungicide. Happy to answer any more questions.

No- certainly don't feel that any ideas would be offending!! Not at all!! Some won't work- the way my house is designed I just can't section off a room. It is an unusual house to say the least. I might be able to appeal with LIEAP- I have a call in to a 'higher up' person. Because what heat source I have is not able to be used by myself someone said 'it is not adaquate- so they are supposed to make it adaquate'. Cross your fingers and toes. For those of you who are trying to 'prepare' for the possibility of Work Comp/SSI/SSD....there are either 5 or 7 states that do not use the Federal Work Comp(AIG Insurance), these states have much less support and you may end up with alot less Work Comp settlement/payments. SSD highest payment is $600/month. If you have worked steadily for 20 quarters, you can apply for SSI, which the monthly payments are dependent upon what your income was. You don't get both- you get one or the other- depending what you qualify for. Something I have learned the past 3 days of being on the phone solid...Salvation Army, United Way, do not serve all areas. There is a chapter in Billings, Montana, but they do not cross county/state lines. Here, where I live, there is neither. As Patches said- there is very little help available in Wyoming. People do not seem to be in the mind frame to help others 'for free'. Whatever they do, they want to be paid for it. If you and/or a sig. other are considering moving, retiring to another state, check out beforehand what services are available in case you get sick/hurt. In Billings, there seems to be ALOT of help- in Wyoming-zip. Patches- you say your cousin may be needing more surgery. If she is close to me (Cody), maybe there would be something that I could do for her when the time comes. If so, I think you can email or pm me. I can imagine how hard it must be to be a single mom with kids and need surgery/recover, without help. Right now it seems to be a waiting game for phone calls to be returned... pris- maybe I forgot to say, but I have already been on SSI for 10 years. As I mentioned above, you don't get Work Comp and SSI. Even when you get a settlement, say for example, you get $25,000- it is doled(sp), out over a 3 year period- so you never get a 'chunk' of cash. You must live off it each month. You can never get anywhere with the Wyoming system. cynic- it is good you are preparing also. I LOVE electric mattress pad!! I try not to use space heaters, as they are 10 times more expensive to run than a regular electric system. I give in though in the bathroom- you just can't take a bath in a 45* room! Well, I guess you can- our anscestors did it.... cynic- have you thought about an electric bed? I slept in one when I 'dog sat' at a friends- it was a foam type- a little warm, but I could get fairly comfortable in it! I have an electric bed on my wish-list.... Maybe I will hear from someone tomorrow. Oh- I talked to someone with the Wyoming Energy today. About solar energy. It would give me all my electric for spring/summer/fall....but Wyoming only gives a maximum of $5,000 grant- leaving a cost of about $20,000 for a small system. Well, I guess THAT won't be even a little dream... The government needs to make solar available if they want us to use it so we use less fossil fuel... So far, it isn't even near to being available to a low income person. Later...