Now we have some information to work from. Case history isn't always so critical, but in this case it genuinely is. If we were playing chess, this would compare to a discovered check. When you removed the intake manifold, that allowed the already stressed engine block to relax. Then when you torqued the manifold back down, especially if you didn't use the correct torque sequence, and the very specific torque settings, you pulled the line bore out of spec which causes wear in the main bearings, and it then starves a(the) rod bearing(s). As pro's we have debated the actual cause of the bearing failures after an intake issue for a few years running. Engineers are certain that it is our fault blaming us for failing to torque the intake correctly, and twisting the block. However I suspect the block distorts and contributes to the gasket failure in the first place, and the replacement simply finishes it off. Of course the coolant in the oil does very little to help the situation. To repair this correctly, it needs to be pulled, stripped down and the block, heads, connecting rods, crankshaft all sent out to the machine shop. The block should be line bored (camshaft and crankshaft) and possibly decked. The connecting rods should be re-sized so that the bearings "crush" properly when installed. The heads resurfaced, the valves and seats machined. Then hone the cylinders, fit new rings to the pistons, inspect the camshaft, and see if it is still serviceable. If not the cam and lifters also need replaced. Add a timing chain and a new oil pump and of course, you have completely rebuilt the engine all because it "lost a rod bearing". If here in the shop I attempted to do a bearing slap, and it failed (which there is a 70% or better chance that it will fail) I would then be expected to make it right, and the rebuild is what would be required. The problem is the block has stressed, and now relaxed back into a different shape than it was when it was first built. This causes the crankshaft to be bent when it turns like a drill bit that is being pushed on too hard. Of course the reason the crankshaft is getting bent is because the main bearings don't line up anymore, unfortunately it's not something you can see by eye, and if you pulled the engine and did a crank and bearing kit, without having the line bore corrected you would likely end up with a broken crankshaft somewhere down the road. Now will slapping a set of bearings buy you some time? It's possible, in fact the problems that some engines tolerate instead of them self destructing over is pretty amazing. That simple fact is why people attempt bearing slaps, and occasionally get away with doing so. At the same time when the bearing slaps fail, as this one might, without extensive experience all someone could try to do is attempt to guess if the work wasn't done right.

Check the oil level in the engine. Check the fluid level in the transmission. (Refer to the owner's manual for the procedure for checking the fluid level. It varies from model to model.) Let us know what you find. New transmission fluid has a pinkish color. Used fluid will darken some but should appear clean. If the fluid is very dark or has a burned smell, the clutches in the transmission may be worn out. You had the transmission rebuilt at 100,000 miles, but more important, how many miles are on the rebuild? Check your owner's manual. Does it recommend a transmission fluid and filter change at a specified interval? If so, has this been done? From what you described, my fear is that the truck was continued to be driven with slipping clutches and the transmission needs a rebuild or replacement. The knocking sound could be either the engine or transmission. Get some help. Have a mechanic or a driver who does his own maintence and is familar with similar products listen and test drive your truck to get an opinion.

Hey New Mexico Gardenwebbers, Since there have been such impassioned BlueStar-related discussions here, I thought I'd post that Builder's Source Appliances in Albuquerque now has the 30" RCS series BlueStar gas ranges for $1999. I think that's the price many people have been very excited about getting the BlueStar for at the Canada Costcos, and these come with the higher power burner (18K or 22K, I'm not sure) already in place. They had some other pretty good deals in their closeout section, too, like a Viking Designer Series gas range for $2999. (I don't know if that's a particularly good model, but it seemed like a decent price for a Viking.) And they're set-up to do the free hood deal with Bertazzoni, although I think that promotion ends soon. I just helped my Mom get all new kitchen equipment there, and we worked with a salesman named Attilio di Paolo who was amazing. Really one of the most knowledgeable and low-key, no-pressure salesmen I've ever met. I'd strongly recommend making an appointment with him if you're contemplating a purchase at Builder's Source. Best, Nabq

As I see it, the problem with assessing the quality & reliability of new SZs is that no owner has had a new SZ long enough to know how dependable and maintenance free it really is. I have a 5.5 year old SZ 650 that as run flawlessly since the day I installed it....but it's definitely not a new SZ. I read your other post about sacrificing some refrigerator space for more freezer space.....Only you can make the call whether that trade off is worth it. For me, it would not be as I have greater need for the refrigerator than the freezer...especially given the excellent refrigeration SZ provides for fresh fruit & vegetables. If your old SZ is working well, I'd be inclined to get it tuned up and put new doors on it so it looks new. I would think that would be far less expensive than a new SZ, and would provide many years of quality refrigeration before you need to replace it. But this is truly a personal decision....