Sleep-dialing or does this happen about a six-pack after midnight?

i either keep it in the car or carry in my purse. i often use just a small swing coach pack or tiny purse but i usually don't have pockets lol. i also don't trust myself not to lose the phone from a pocket. i have an expensive personal phone and a blackberry storm for work so i am very aware about not loosing them. i have a co-worker who just lost his new blackberry storm we all got for work while he was on a rollercoaster :-) this past weekend, it fell out of his pocket. he's an owners son so i'm sure it's no big deal... most of the yr i have to have my work cell 24/7 (semi drivers on the road) so i'm used to having it. i got rid of the landline a couple yrs ago. the last several yrs i only used it for faxing clients paperwork as it had no long distance since i used a cell for free long distance. since we have no landline i found a puter program that allows me to scan something i want to fax and send it to a fax# saves us $40 a month which was the cheapest line from Sprint-embarq 8 yrs ago. ~ liz

Since I don't know (and don't have a need to know) who this person is to you, I can't say what he will do. But I found out the hard way that if someone is going to that extreme to "get to you", and they don't get the response they are looking for, they may take up a new "hobby". You don't want this person getting so frustrated that they resort to some other unhealthy way to get your attention. I do know that in some jurisdictions, the phone company has to initiate the block. In others, it's a police matter. Either way, it can still be a crime. I would have the calls blocked - report it to the authorities and at least you will have a record of theses calls in case you decide you've had enough. Build your case early. I didn't, and it escalated into a huge mess and I ended up having to get the authorities involved anyway - by that time I was a wreck! FWIW, I wasn't used to being around that type of situation and was so afraid I would get this person in some sort of trouble. But I learned through what I saw / heard from the authorities how bad it can really get if someone really wants to get to you. The peace that had after it was over was amazing, and nothing bad hadpped to the other person. Best wishes and I hope you get some relief soon.

If you want to talk about power flow through batteries and electrical devices, I'll put it separate so as not to confuse the above. You're right - draw and pull aren't really the right words to use. They're colloquialisms I've used for years in my job. "This pulls 10 amps," etc. The best analogy, and the one that was often used in my education, is to liken the flow of electricity to that of water in a pipe. A higher amp circuit is a bigger pipe. A higher voltage circuit is like a pipe with higher water pressure. The current-using device is like the faucet you open or close. Higher pressure (voltage) and lower resistance (Ohms) are what will increase the current (amps) through the circuit. Amps do not exist until current begins flowing. Amperage ratings of power delivery equipment refer to the maximum allowable amperage the circuit or device can safely carry. Amperage ratings of power consuming equipment refer to the maximum amperage they'll carry in normal operation. To relate that to this discussion, it should now be clear why a higher amperage charger is fine: it's merely a bigger pipe that can deliver more current if needed. That doesn't mean the current will flow - the voltage and resistance will determine that - but that it can flow if needed, exactly as I started in my analogy of the night light and the microwave oven. Charging batteries is an interesting area, because you can observe what happens with a device called a Kill-a-Watt that indicates the wattage used by any device you plug into it. I have a 12-volt car battery that is one of those "booster" batteries you can use to jump-start your car if there's no other car around. You charge this battery with a supplied plug-in charger. If the battery is heavily discharged, the charging wattage will show about 14, but as the battery nears a full charge, the wattage slowly drops to about 2, and at that point you can unplug the charger. This happens because as the charger continues to supply a constant voltage, the charging current drops as the battery's internal voltage nears that of what the charger is delivering. This all occurs not as a function of any type of computerized circuitry in the charger, nor as a result of the charger's maximum amp rating, but simply because of how current flows in the battery charging process. "Smart" chargers can affect the charge rate of a battery by applying different voltages at different phases of the charging process, as batteries of different chemistry do better with faster, slower charges or other specific things, such as high voltage early and low voltage late in the charge, or whatever. Most cell phones today have charge control circuitry to somewhat counter the detrimental effects of constant overcharging, as people frequently do when they charge the phone all night while it's still turned on and they're asleep.