I am the unofficial resident expert on this problem :-( First of all, take out all of your dishes and weigh the drawer. Our 42 inch drawer weighed 30 lbs and the pegboard another 8 lbs. - I had exactly 75 lbs of dishes in the drawer - oops - crack - the side of the cabinet fractured. Once the dishes are out of the drawer and the drawer weighed - weigh your dishes. I took one of each size dish and then multiplied times number of sets to get my total. Now take the drawer out and look at how many screws are holding the drawer - you need extra reinforcement screws for the heavy drawers and not just the standard 3 screws -it doesn't matter if you have MDF, particle, or plywood - the weight is too much for the box without extra reinforcements. If you can, I would put in anchors. I have learned a lot since then and have been working with the KD and Brookhaven on the issue. BH would replace the cabinet - but getting in place could be a problem and we decided not to risk cracking the counter, messing up the tile, etc... The KD claims she did not realize the weight included the drawer weight - our drawer still closed and the glide did not break, but I felt that KD should have this knowledge and BH should have red flagged as a problem. So, we are going to stay with the big drawer but have a smaller inset drawer inside the frame (still waiting for it to come) - look at my Recipe for Disaster thread and michoumonster concept will be used for us. We are also changing the hinges to the 150lb Blum as an extra precaution. Take time to go through my post - lots of ideas from everyone. Recipe for disaster. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1020404519236.html Good luck

We installed the dampers after the fact on all our doors except the corner sink cabinet. The dampers we bought didn't work on it. When I looked at the door I realized that I think it's b/c the corner sink cabinet has a partial overlay door (to allow it to open fully) and all the other doors (base & upper) are full overlay. To use the dampers on partial overlay, spacers are needed. We haven't gotten around to ordering another damper + spacers. If you have a diagonal door for the corner lazy susan, then you may have the same situation. We did use the damper + the extra one I ordered in the PR, so no waste. Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: I need some soft close dampers for my cabinet doors

OP - You should change the title of this thread because you are receiving responses based on paying $6000 ONLY for soft close whereas the $6000 is for a number of different upgrades. The Level 2 cabinets seem to be constructed far better than Level One and IMO superior drawer construction is worth $6000 along with full extension under mount drawers and probably a style that is more pleasing to me. Of course the builder is making a huge profit on it but that's not the issue. You are a captive audience and cabinets are (at least to me) part of the actual construction of the home. The builder is providing the least expensive crap cabinets baked into the "price" of the home and then profiting because people are going to want or in the case of well constructed cabinetry need to upgrade. What are the upgrades for cabinets at each level because those are a lot of upgrades. I wouldn't stint on items that provide increased function and increased duration. However I wouldn't pay for upgrades that are easy to change down the road - counters; flooring choices, faucets etc.

I tried to find somewhere where I could ask Broyhill, but did not see anywhere. I will check Home Depot.