I feel your pain! I was in similar situation to you where I really needed the privacy for the WTs in my master bedroom, and in my LR and DR which face the street. For all rooms I opted for pinch pleats on rings because I felt they would hold up best with the daily opening and closing that I wanted to do without having to fuss with the drapes to get them to look nice every time I opened/closed them. The difference is that in my LR/DR I went for an expensive custom solution for both the drapes and rods from Calico Corners and in my MBR I went for an inexpensive stock size pinch pleat drapery panel from JC Pennies and rod from Lowes for a fraction of the cost. The custom drapes and rods are of a much higher quality and built to last, but surprisingly enough I also like my JCP drapes which are holding up well and if I decide I want a different look in 1-2 years, I won't feel bad about replacing them, though my LR/DR drapes should last a lifetime and will become outdated before they wear out. Living Room: Master bedroom: When sheesharee was exploring options for her LR windows, kmcg also had a pretty solution using a combination of the rod pocket style Pottery Barn drapes on rings (no clips) with woven wood blinds for privacy. It looked really nice and if I had to do it over again, I think I would've went with that approach for my LR, but probably not for my DR since it's a bay window. While I love the look, I still do question how well the rod pocket style on rings holds up if they are opened and closed daily. It would be worthwhile to search from sheesharee's thread on this since kmcg said she felt they worked best as stationary panels and not operable drapes.

@jellytoast - thank you, that was one thread I hadn't seen (probably the only one, lol) A question for you all: our house is Edwardian but the interior would best be described as "transitional" - not period but not particularly modern either. I envisage the kitchen to be "transitional" too - white shaker cabs, keeping the existing rough slate tile floors, Caesarstone Urban benchtop (mid-grey), SS appliances. Are double pulls going to be too ye olde worlde? The pulls will be satin nickel as I felt antique pewter or antique silver did look a bit too traditional... I do definitely want to use double pulls on the 36" stack but this is a purely financial decision. 5" pulls are $5 each, whereas 10" pulls (which is the size I'd use on 36" drawers as a single) are $100 or so. Even 8" pulls are $55 - which is what I'd use on the 30" drawers if using 10" on the 36" drawers (does that make sense?) so the cost really does add up in the scheme of things. We plan to sell the house in about 5 years' time and since I like the double pull look as well, $ definitely comes into it. This post was edited by dibdot on Wed, May 14, 14 at 0:29

schicksal- what kind of garbage bins are those? I really like them! oh, to answer the original question. no pic yet because my pulls are on backorder, however I chose an extra long pull for my garbage/recycle pullouts (12"). There is no drawer above it (I have outlets above my trash pullout). I chose the extra long pull for two reasons: 1) easy to pull open (I guess I was thinking no matter where you grab the handle is there) 2) can hang a towel on it the pull does match the other pulls in the kitchen though, as far as style

Chefkev, isn't the door mount a wonderful thing? :) It looks great, I am glad it is working out so well for you. Anita, My pullout is floor mounted, and I do think most if not all can have a door mount kit added. The door mount just provides a convenient way of pulling out a side or floor mounted unit. By the way, for those who think they can't fit a pullout under the sink, the double trash pullouts with a floor rather than side mount can actually work more easily in some space challenged sink bases than the single trash pullouts. The reason is that the GD and plumbing take up room, and most single pullouts turn the trash can so it has to go deeper into the sink base and there is often not enough room in a smaller sink base without the trash can hitting on the GD or plumbing, and preventing it from closing fully. The double pullouts turn the trash so that they can fit one behind the other. By purchasing one of those, you can remove the second can and slide the back of the pullout UNDER the GD and plumbing, and the front trash can is at the front of the cabinet and in front of the GD and plumbing. By getting a smaller double, you should be able to find one that will fit within most door openings as well. The biggest problem is that the needed measurements are not usually provided by the manufacturer for that type of installation so a small risk may need to be taken. Measuring from the lowest part of the plumbing/GD to the floor of the sink cabinet will tell you how much space you have to slide the back of the pullout into. Asking people here who have different pullouts to measure how high that part of the pullout is will tell you if a particular model will work, or anyone could call someone who sells it and has it in hand and ask if they will obtain the needed measurements for them. Just a tip for those with small kitchens who would like to try to fit in a couple of the conveniences that the big kitchen crowd get to play with. :) I hope you don't mind my using your thread to share it, chefkev. Sue