I missed that [Donate Now] thing at the top of the page too. The site is useless. While any top 100 list is going to differ depending on who they poll, this one just accepts any reader's Top 10 submissions without any screening. I suspect that most of these submissions weren't even books that the submitter read and enjoyed, but just books they remember reading back in school or even books that they had "heard of" in school and felt "smart" by submitting them titles. Check out their Top 100 Authors of all time. Coming in at #1 is William Shakespeare! LOL. Wow. Just wow. Has anyone ever read him by choice? Hunter S. Thompson comes in on the list somewhere between Plato and Homer and a bit down on the list from Virgil. Dr. Seuss makes the list way ahead of Jean Paul Sarte. Puleeez. Check out their list of the Top 100 Authors. ROTFLMAO. http://www.thebest100lists.com/best100authors/ Here is a link that might be useful: Top 100 Authors

Questions?-- We are converting it to a dwelling by adding 3 BR & 2 baths which leaves a 24x32 shop/garage in the back 1/3 of the structure.All the wiring already installed is in flexable conduit,but the 200A panel is up front & I want to rework the 70A sub panel by installing a 100A panel about 40' back from the 200A main and replace the existing 70A breaker with a 100A to feed the new sub panel. Whether you can protect the #4 individual conductors (I'm assuming they're THHN) with a 100A breaker is "iffy" because it may depend on local code interpretations. In some jurisdictions you can use #4 for 100 amps for indoor subpanels. In others you'd need to upsize to #3 copper. (The latter would be true where I live, BTW.) Best to check with your AHJ (authority having jurisdiction--the local permit/inspections office) to be sure. This will allow me to make short runs to feed the additional rooms and have the panel in the shop/garage where I want to have a 220V welder plug close to the 100A sub panel.I'm trying to avoid making all those homeruns from the front of the building to the back as well as having control over the shop feeds right in the shop area. Makes sense to me. The existing 70A sub panel is three #4 separate copper (AWG) wires...Will this feed the 100A sub panel? I also have a good amount of #3 copper of the same type,if that will be better. If I had sufficient #3 on hand, that's what I'd use. (If I'm interpreting your info correctly, you'll be moving the subpanel further to the rear of the building. Thus, I'm also factoring in the advantage of not having to splice the old wires in an junction box located in the middle of the run. However, I'm not certain I understand your plan. When say "rework", does that mean you'd leave the existing 70A subpanel in place and have it feed a second subpanel? Or do you plan to move it altogether? Just want to be sure...) Would it be better(correct) to run 4 wires (H-H-N-G) or 3 wires? This is all inside the structure. Yes, it would be better (correct) to use 4 wires with separate neutral and grounding conductors. So called 3-wire feeds are legal only in certain circumstances for detached buildings. But even in that context, they are being phased out by the 2008 National Electric Code. The grounding conductor can be smaller than the hots and neutral. In this case you should be able to use #8 bare or green, although that's also worth verifying with your AHJ. Whether you reuse the old subpanel or buy a new one, when wiring a 4-wire feed, you need to fully separate the neutral (grounded) conductor from the grounding conductor. The neutral feed and all branch neutrals should land on the neutral bar. The grounding conductor and all branch equipment grounds should connect to a separate ground bar. (You may have to purchase a ground bar separately--usually under $10.) You also need to remove any bonding connector from the neutral bar to the box and/or...

Ok, realized I didn't explain the situation perfectly clearly. The existing service coming in can handle up to 320 amps. The existing breaker box says it's a 200 amp box. So hexus is probably right, we can get up to the 320 amps by adding a subpanel. To go higher, we've got to pay the utility ~$1000 (6-something per foot) to run the new wire and hook up the new meter. I googled and found an online load calculator, so we're going to run around the house and figure out what all our appliances need, and get educated on how that all figures into what we can really load onto our existing service. Our house, with the addition, is 4300 square feet. Does 320 feel sufficient for that square footage? (2 sets of A/C and furnaces, 3 1/2 baths, double laundry hookup) And the instant hot water heater (necessitated by the fact that the bath and laundry are on the far side of the house from the existing hot water heater, and we don't want to waste all the water needed to move hot water that distance) really does require 120 amps.

Not sure if this was mentioned above, but I would rather have a root canal than have to sit through another viewing of "Into The Woods" from a couple years ago. It had an impressive cast and I was looking forward to seeing a musical, but I kept checking my watch hoping it would soon be over. It was SO lame & it just went on & on... I love Meryl Streep, but didn't feel her performance in it warranted the nominations she received.