Still guessing, but I try to add some more things to do. Do you hear anything when you crank it with the plugs out?? does it hesitate or have a hitch in the rotation when you have the plugs out?? Any hitch or hesitation will be mulitiplied with the plugs in especially if you hear any noise. things I would look for. Remove the starter and look at the bendix teeth, look at the flywheel teeth. Do a compression check (compression should be atleast around 100 PSI). this will tell you that the valve seat and valves are sealing and closing, Doing one cylinder at a time may also narrow the problem down to one or the other if the engine stops rotating when checking compression which may lead to a connecting rod problem. If you got good compression and the engine spins with plugs out and no unusual noises or hesitations and the drive belt and elect pto clutch aren't binding. Then I would suspect the starter, usually starters last quite awhile, but unless your are an electronic's expert your guessing. Starter is a high dollar item unless you find a used one or one on ebay for at least 1/2 price. Before I replace the starter I would go ove the battery cables again checking for any corossion (on the cables internally) and points of contact I would also jump across the starter solonoid to illimate that. I'm out of guesses or procedures unless you come up with something else. If it was me I would try another starter before I tore into the engine unless I found some evidents of a rotating part problem. I not that familar with V-twin Kohlers, but it still should have valve covers (usually the cover can be reinstalled using the old gasket unless you tear if when removing it) which you can remove and watch the valve action when cranking the engine with the plugs out if you have no compression in one cylinder, if you have good compression (in both cylinders) and no noises then the rotating internal part could be ilimated. I know another tool you probably haven't got, but you really have to have basic tools multi-meter, compression kit, vacuum gauge to have a chance to narrow some problems down.

Unfortunately, my mom is in her final days and needed me to care for her for several days after her birthday party. She's oxygen dependent (on 5+ if that means anything to you) and the power company turned off the electricity for the entire day without notice. Fortunately I was there and we made the switch to a portable unit - actually 2 since the first wasn't working properly. The oxygen company was great and put in an emergency order for an oxygen unit that provided continual feed. It was a scary day. Somehow the garbage disposal switch didn't seem like a pressing question. Really though, the cabinets should be here in about 2 weeks, so things need to be done and decisions made (we're DIY'ing). I'm leaning towards going with the air switch, but I still need to consider that more carefully. I really appreciate your sharing what you found out.

Old style mice with the ball have two rollers inside: one for up and down and another for side to side. Very likely, the side-to-side roller is jammed or the optical sensor has failed. There is a slotted wheel on the end of each roller and rotation is sensed by optically reading the slots. Since it is a ball type, it is old and probably worn out. It is adviseable to replace the mouse. I recommend a simple optical mouse connected with a cord (tail). These are more reliable than the remote type. Most mice come with adapters to permit plugging into the standard PS2 port or a USB port. Optical mice will work on a variety of surfaces. However, they work best on surfaces that have a consistent texture or pattern such as a plain mouse pad without graphics. A finely woven cloth works too. A remote mouse using radio frequency link has more things to go wrong, although those are convenient. These require a receiver to be plugged into your computer and the mouse contains a transmitter and batteries. It should have auto shut off to conserve the batteries, and the batteries will need periodic replacement.

> What Fault Code do you get in Diagnostics? No fault codes as far as I can tell. I've dealt with no-fill and flood faults before, and this behavior is different. > Does the lid close when starting [when its misbehaving]? > does the drawer power turn on upon opening [when its misbehaving]? Looks like no to both, but its intermittent- does that make sense? Sometimes I can get the cycle to start and all appears normal, but it stops with the same symptoms after a few minutes. Here's a full sequence of a test I just ran: ------------------ Power off. Open drawer, power comes on. Close drawer, press start, cycle starts. 2 minutes later, cycle stops with a single long beep. Press start, and cycle fails to start. It makes the dit-dit-dit-daa alarm sound instead. Press power button, power shuts off. Open drawer, power stays off. Leave drawer closed with power off for 2 minutes. Drain pump starts all by itself and runs for a bit, then the power comes on with a happy, 4 beep, "I woke up" sort of sound. Push power button, power goes off. Open drawer, power stays off. Wait about an hour, open drawer, power comes on. Repeat as above. (The second drawer does the same thing, but you have to wait longer)